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How to remove blueing
prangle
Member Posts: 1,462 ✭✭✭✭✭
I never knew it was so easy.
Put the gun parts in vinegar.
Put the gun parts in vinegar.
Comments
I hope you didn't leave any in the bore or chamber very long.
No barrels involved. It does the job. Sprayed with WD-40 afterwards.
Actually, a solution of one grain baking soda per ounce of water will neutralize the acid in the vinager.
quote:Originally posted by prangle
No barrels involved. It does the job. Sprayed with WD-40 afterwards.
Actually, a solution of one grain baking soda per ounce of water will neutralize the acid in the vinager.
+1 baking soda and water will take care of the acids. People used to do this when they thought that smokeless powder caused the damage to bores that was actually a result of corrosive primers. Of course it only made them think they were right as the water from the solution netrualized the salts anyway....at least thats what Jack O'Connor said.[:)]
I would assume than oven cleaner works well too.
Over cleaner is a caustic alkali (its lye). I'd actually NOT expect it to work very well.
A good cheap way to strip bluing (which is basically just a form of rust) is good old fashioned phosphoric acid, ie naval jelly, available at any hardware store for $5 a bottle.
I just don't like Blueing and it really does not protect.
Bluing has two main appeals:
Its "traditional" and when applied over a high polished finish, it can look really "deep" and nice.
But from a functional standpoint, its a lousy finish.
Its still much better than NO finish, but not only is not particularly rust resistant, its also not very wear resistant. Further, with time (and we're talking decades here) the bluing may slowly turn into conventional brown rust.
One of the best *practical* finishes is old-fashioned parkerizing, which is cheap, fairly durable, and when properly oiled fairly rust resistant, but of course its also ugly.
quote:Originally posted by prangle
I just don't like Blueing and it really does not protect.
Bluing has two main appeals:
Its "traditional" and when applied over a high polished finish, it can look really "deep" and nice.
But from a functional standpoint, its a lousy finish.
Its still much better than NO finish, but not only is not particularly rust resistant, its also not very wear resistant. Further, with time (and we're talking decades here) the bluing may slowly turn into conventional brown rust.
One of the best *practical* finishes is old-fashioned parkerizing, which is cheap, fairly durable, and when properly oiled fairly rust resistant, but of course its also ugly.
I like the parkerizing finish...practical becomes good looking to me when it comes to all kinds of things. And yes, when properly oiled, it can be very rust resistant actually. I love my 1911 with its pkz finished.[:)]