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Help Please!!! UPDATE- 88 FORD BRAKES DONE

MaxOHMSMaxOHMS Member Posts: 14,715
edited May 2009 in General Discussion
How do I remove the pins that hold the caliper in place to change out the disc on a 1988 Ford Econ Van?

Many Tanks!



......AND THEY ACTUALLY WORK!

Thanks Guys.

Comments

  • garanchgaranch Member Posts: 3,681
    edited November -1
    They have an allen head . Look around the back side and see which size.
  • shoff14shoff14 Member Posts: 11,994 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Not familiar with the vehicle. However, there are probably socket head cap screws with torx head holding it on to the vehicle. Some times the pins that let the caliper slide rust. You need to get the two bolts out. Some penetrating oil, wd40, ect may help.
  • Jacob2008Jacob2008 Member Posts: 19,528 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    DO NOT spray WD40 all over it- or atleast dont get it on your rotors. Your brakes will not work right.
  • Colt SuperColt Super Member Posts: 31,007
    edited November -1
  • MaxOHMSMaxOHMS Member Posts: 14,715
    edited November -1
    It is not bolts.
    I've done lotsa Chevys, and newer Fords.

    This thing has 2- two-piece pins instead of bolts.

    I usta wood have another beer and beat the crap outa it.
    That would add to parts and time (and busted knuckles)
  • shoff14shoff14 Member Posts: 11,994 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by shootertutor
    It is not bolts.
    I've done lotsa Chevys, and newer Fords.

    This thing has 2- two-piece pins instead of bolts.

    I usta wood have another beer and beat the crap outa it.
    That would add to parts and time (and busted knuckles)


    Does it have some sort of C-clip or snap ring holding the pins in place that has rusted or dirt filled and you can't see it?
  • 7RiverMan77RiverMan7 Member Posts: 1,522 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    They are just compression pins, tap them out with a punch.
  • torridpaintorridpain Member Posts: 6 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    you have to take some pliers and squeeze the pin and hammer it out
  • MaxOHMSMaxOHMS Member Posts: 14,715
    edited November -1
    nope,
    each 1/2 of pin has a bump that holds it in place
  • 7RiverMan77RiverMan7 Member Posts: 1,522 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There is rubber between the the two piece pins, right?
  • 7RiverMan77RiverMan7 Member Posts: 1,522 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by shootertutor
    nope,
    each 1/2 of pin has a bump that holds it in place
    Just drive them out, the bumps just help hold it in place.
  • MaxOHMSMaxOHMS Member Posts: 14,715
    edited November -1
    Tanks guys
    I prefer the Bradly

    now- how do I get grease offa my keyboard?
    [:D]
  • 7RiverMan77RiverMan7 Member Posts: 1,522 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    One swat with the hammer will put them flush with the caliper and then continue to drive them out with a punch or long screw driver.

    Keep the punch on the edge of the pin.
  • Jacob2008Jacob2008 Member Posts: 19,528 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Doug Wilson
    Chicken.

    Doug
    After seeing what happened to my moms 2001 impala in 2003 i think it was, when the brakes went out, I would just rather know my brakes WILL work [B)]
  • 1911a1-fan1911a1-fan Member Posts: 51,193 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by 7RiverMan7
    They are just compression pins, tap them out with a punch.


    +1 they look like 2 pieces of l shaped put together to make a sorta square, tap em out tap em in, looks like a real lousy piece of engineering but it works
  • Horse Plains DrifterHorse Plains Drifter Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 40,032 ***** Forums Admin
    edited November -1
    Yep, drive em out with a punch.
  • cnsaycnsay Member Posts: 1,373 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by 1911a1fan
    +1 they look like 2 pieces of l shaped put together to make a sorta square, tap em out tap em in, looks like a real lousy piece of engineering but it works


    But it saved Ford $.03 per calliper and that is how they did not need govt bailout. (OK so they went broke first and got private bailout before banks wet broke, but thats a different story)[:)]
  • MaxOHMSMaxOHMS Member Posts: 14,715
    edited November -1
    yes, there is rubber between the 2 pcs

    yes, they tapped out w/ hammer and punch

    someone had run the caliper down on the disc, and the bleed valve will not budge
    soooo.....yet another part

    good thing I got this van for 400
  • OdawgpOdawgp Member Posts: 5,380 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by shootertutor
    Tanks guys
    I prefer the Bradly

    now- how do I get grease offa my keyboard?
    [:D]


    you got brake cleaner handy

    Don't Ya [:0] [:D] [:o)]
  • 7RiverMan77RiverMan7 Member Posts: 1,522 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Odawgp
    quote:Originally posted by shootertutor
    Tanks guys
    I prefer the Bradly

    now- how do I get grease offa my keyboard?
    [:D]


    you got brake cleaner handy

    Don't Ya [:0] [:D] [:o)]


    Parts washer should work too!
  • OdawgpOdawgp Member Posts: 5,380 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by shootertutor
    yes, there is rubber between the 2 pcs

    yes, they tapped out w/ hammer and punch

    someone had run the caliper down on the disc, and the bleed valve will not budge
    soooo.....yet another part

    good thing I got this van for 400


    You shouldn't need to bleed the front ones,

    I was taught always bleed them (if you have to) from the back or as far away as you can get from the master cylinder
  • Survivalist86Survivalist86 Member Posts: 3,105
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by shootertutor
    How do I remove the pins that hold the caliper in place to change out the disc on a 1988 Ford Econ Van?

    Many Tanks!


    Same set up as my pickup. Tap the pins out with a punch and hammer. I had a heck of a time figuring it out too.
  • 7RiverMan77RiverMan7 Member Posts: 1,522 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    You shouldnt have to open the bleed screw if your just replacing the rotor and pads. Just take the master cylinder cap off and do a slow squeeze on the caliper piston with channel locks or c-clamp.

    You probably already know that but thought I would mention it.
  • 1911a1-fan1911a1-fan Member Posts: 51,193 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    so out of all the remedies which one was correct
  • MaxOHMSMaxOHMS Member Posts: 14,715
    edited November -1
    I cranked on a 6" C w/ all I had- no go

    the caliper is morn badly

    $18.99 more aint bad
  • 7RiverMan77RiverMan7 Member Posts: 1,522 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by shootertutor
    I cranked on a 6" C w/ all I had- no go

    the caliper is morn badly

    $18.99 more aint bad


    Heck of a deal! You should probably replace both front ones for that price.
  • MaxOHMSMaxOHMS Member Posts: 14,715
    edited November -1
    this ole tubs been rustin for 20 years

    The other side is workin fine

    okokok- Im lazy and dont like pain[:D]
  • 1911a1-fan1911a1-fan Member Posts: 51,193 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    dont forget brake fluid while your there {not that ive done that[:)]}

    some of those fords will not compress with a c clamp, look on the outside for 2 holes, they take a special tool and screw in/out

    and be careful what you get the fluid on, it is some caustic stuff
  • screwobamascrewobama Member Posts: 625
    edited November -1
    As a general rule you should never push a caliper back into it's houseing espicially when ABS is involved. When you comress the caliper without opening the bleeder you are pushing a lot of debris back thru the filters in a ABS system. It always easier to compress a caliper with the bleeder open anyway. A LITTLE bit of heat will free up the bleeder in most cases.
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