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Update on truck noise

calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
edited May 2014 in General Discussion
First off, thank you to those that mentioned the drive shaft support bearing. I hadn't thought about that even though my BMW is notorious for that part going bad.

While the bearing is not totally destroyed, it is definitely bad enough to cause the vibration and noise that I've been having.

Here is where I am stuck. How do I get these clamps off?

405F66D5-738D-4886-A08C-7E229F62EF7A.jpg

3BB5A31B-8527-40E5-B91F-D1645CB12E23.jpg

Gashauler said that they just need to be clipped and replaced with regular hose clamps and I tend to agree.

Comments

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    guntech59guntech59 Member Posts: 23,187 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    That seems like the simplest solution.
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    calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    They're off. Now I need to go get the new support bearing.
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    select-fireselect-fire Member Posts: 69,453 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    [:)][:)] Replaced a few.
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    calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    I'm taking the drive shaft and the new bearing to my neighbor's shop. The old bearing is not cooperating in the removal process.
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    TooBigTooBig Member Posts: 28,560 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If the shaft is two piece make sure you time it again
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    calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by TooBig
    If the shaft is two piece make sure you time it again


    I marked it because I have no idea how to time it.
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    Horse Plains DrifterHorse Plains Drifter Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 39,381 ***** Forums Admin
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by calrugerfan
    quote:Originally posted by TooBig
    If the shaft is two piece make sure you time it again


    I marked it because I have no idea how to time it.
    Just sight down it, and line the u-joints up. Most of the stuff now days has a master spline, and will only fit in one position.
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    calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Horse Plains Drifter
    quote:Originally posted by calrugerfan
    quote:Originally posted by TooBig
    If the shaft is two piece make sure you time it again


    I marked it because I have no idea how to time it.
    Just sight down it, and line the u-joints up. Most of the stuff now days has a master spline, and will only fit in one position.


    This one can fit two ways. 180 degrees apart.
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    Horse Plains DrifterHorse Plains Drifter Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 39,381 ***** Forums Admin
    edited November -1
    180? is cool, it's still in time.
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    calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by Horse Plains Drifter
    180? is cool, it's still in time.


    So timing it (balancing it) is just making sure the U-joints are all lined up?
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    spasmcreekspasmcreek Member Posts: 37,724 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    good to mark and go back as it came off...basically the crosses need to be in line so the u joint crosses move in the same plane....easy with a smaller number of splines and sometimes tricky if drive line slip joint has large number of fine splines...as in center lines are = and not x...want both u joints to bend parallel at same time...these clips are neat design...recommend using same or at best a hose clamp glued after tightening..as direction of rotation may tend to loosen clamp as it can go on two ways..lots of centrifugal force here and trash can grab a hose clamp
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    Horse Plains DrifterHorse Plains Drifter Forums Admins, Member, Moderator Posts: 39,381 ***** Forums Admin
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by calrugerfan
    quote:Originally posted by Horse Plains Drifter
    180? is cool, it's still in time.


    So timing it (balancing it) is just making sure the U-joints are all lined up?
    No, timing and balancing are two different things. Believe it or not, a u-joint running in any position except perfectly straight, does not turn at a constant speed throughout it's arc of rotation. Therefore, all joints on a common shaft need to be in line, so the speed up/slow down events happen at the same time. If a u-joint is out of phase as it is called, one end of the shaft will be trying to speed up, while the other end is slowing down. This will cause a vibration. This is also why it is important that u-joints on a common shaft run within 30' the same angle. The lift kit boys sometimes get in trouble with driveline angles.
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    calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    So there is no way to balance it without specialized equipment?
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    spasmcreekspasmcreek Member Posts: 37,724 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    correct...once had a Nissan 4x4 pickup, replaced the u joints and had a vibration ...took the shaft to Wichita and had it balanced...they spot welded a weight the size of a dime on it and PERFECTO
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    select-fireselect-fire Member Posts: 69,453 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I would replace all the U joints also. The rubber that supports the carrier bearing goes bad before the bearing does.
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    spasmcreekspasmcreek Member Posts: 37,724 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    must mention that once balanced point punch all parts in a line ...you could get it 180 degrees off ...u joints are in line but balance is off
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    calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    I try to put as little money as possible into this truck since it is truly a utilitarian truck. I plan on run ing it until the truck falls off the running engine.

    When it becomes a spare vehicle, I may take the time (and expense) to do a complete teardown and rebuild for now, I just want to keep it on the road. I still use it as a truck but no more heavy hauling.

    When I can afford it, I am buying this one from my neighbor.

    518CB175-244E-4972-99AF-D4395493E30E.jpg
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    LesWVaLesWVa Member Posts: 10,490 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Small cutting chisel between the clamps end and the peened lock will remove them without damaging the boot.

    Kartek Off-Road make some great CV Joint boot clamps that are like hose clamps. But they work better.
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    CapnMidnightCapnMidnight Member Posts: 8,520
    edited November -1
    Us real truck guys call that a carrier bearing.
    Of course, you call a pickup a truck, so what can I say.[;)]
    W.D.
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    calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by CapnMidnight
    Us real truck guys call that a carrier bearing.
    Of course, you call a pickup a truck, so what can I say.[;)]
    W.D.


    It IS a pickup truck. It would have to be much larger to be a real truck.
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    asphalt cowboyasphalt cowboy Member Posts: 8,904 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've dealt with carrier bearings on every two piece drive shaft I've had.
    I hope you got one made in the USA. I bought one without looking at it and didn't discover made in Mexico 'til after it grenaded. Got lucky with the bearing frame holding together.
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    calrugerfancalrugerfan Member Posts: 18,209
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by asphalt cowboy
    I've dealt with carrier bearings on every two piece drive shaft I've had.
    I hope you got one made in the USA. I bought one without looking at it and didn't discover made in Mexico 'til after it grenaded. Got lucky with the bearing frame holding together.


    Timken. Made in the USA.
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