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Pouring Sea Foam into the motor & brake vaccum
bambambam
Member Posts: 4,818 ✭✭✭
A guy that is in one of my electronics classes told me you can clean your engine of carbon build up using SeaFoam. I already use it for a fuel additive in all my small engines, but never knew of this.
He said to pour a can in the motor & another in a full tank of gas. You will run this for about a week to clean these areas first.
He said you take a hot engine(like you just got home) and take the vaccum line off the brake booster and let it suck in as much SeaFoam as it will take in until it dies.(no more than half a can)
He said you let it sit for about 15mins and drive it about 15 miles to get all the smoke out of the intake & engine.
Then drain the oil and put new in.
He said it will be about a week of small amounts of smoke and the motor will run like a champ.
He said it will clean the cat conv too.
He said this was for motors with a lot of miles and would make it run better.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRAV5ln5cUc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3gR-EhDLwA&feature=related
This video below is 2-3 parts you click on a tab at end to go to next one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zt_oXKxe3wo
He said to pour a can in the motor & another in a full tank of gas. You will run this for about a week to clean these areas first.
He said you take a hot engine(like you just got home) and take the vaccum line off the brake booster and let it suck in as much SeaFoam as it will take in until it dies.(no more than half a can)
He said you let it sit for about 15mins and drive it about 15 miles to get all the smoke out of the intake & engine.
Then drain the oil and put new in.
He said it will be about a week of small amounts of smoke and the motor will run like a champ.
He said it will clean the cat conv too.
He said this was for motors with a lot of miles and would make it run better.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRAV5ln5cUchttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3gR-EhDLwA&feature=relatedThis video below is 2-3 parts you click on a tab at end to go to next one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zt_oXKxe3wo
Comments
There used to be many products that you could use like this before the advent of Cat Converters and O2 sensors Casite ETC but I would be VERY CAREFUL it does not take muck to kill an O2 "big $$$$" sensor. should be directions on the Can.
Sounds like some of the motor honey crap some folks used to pour into the carburetor while the engine was running, made a huge cloud of white smoke..... then the engine ran erratically for about a week.
Allen
I also had an Uncle that would drain the oil in his car, refill with kerosene and run for a couple of minutes, drain and refill with fresh oil on every other oil change!! That was in the 50's and 60's.
Youtube. Now THERE's a source of automotive expertise I'd trust.
One thing I agree with: Pouring fuel additives or brake fluid or ATF into your intake are all equally effective -- at creating massive repair bills.
A guy in my electronics class. Now THERE's an automotive expert I'd trust.
Youtube. Now THERE's a source of automotive expertise I'd trust.
One thing I agree with: Pouring fuel additives or brake fluid or ATF into your intake are all equally effective -- at creating massive repair bills.
As a fully licensed Auto Mechanic for 30 years. Having rebuilt many engines and not R&R like todays mechanics. I have rebuilt hundreds of Automatic transmissions, rack & pinions, recirculating ball, differentials, transfer cases and on and on and on. I can tell you unequivocally I have forgotten more than you will likely ever know about engines & performance not to mention what a little brake fluid, seafoam or trans fluid will do to an engine and related parts. Including todays engines that just happen to run on the same principle as their predecessors...
I've seen hot water poured down the carb to clean carbon out and another old timer I knew swore that pouring a quart of ATF down the carb will rid the engine of most of the sludge built up prior to a rebuild.
I also had an Uncle that would drain the oil in his car, refill with kerosene and run for a couple of minutes, drain and refill with fresh oil on every other oil change!! That was in the 50's and 60's.
If you have a cylinder that is low on compression the atf trick will work, I busts up carbon in the valves.
I used to work in a salvage yard that would warrenty an engine for 3,000 miles after they sold it.
I'm also sure that in your time you've seen more than one instance of somebody trying a cheap solution to a small problem that ended up causing a great deal of expensive damage. (And you may have profited by it, which is only right.)
NOSLEEP, I certainly would believe your opinion on this because you do seem to be a knowledgeable expert. You beat "some guy" and Youtube by a mile.
I'm also sure that in your time you've seen more than one instance of somebody trying a cheap solution to a small problem that ended up causing a great deal of expensive damage. (And you may have profited by it, which is only right.)
Rocky you are correct. You cannot repair a damaged engine or component by cleaning it. Seafoam, brake fluid, trans fluid are all high in detergents and only assist in removing top end contaminants on valves, cylinder walls and piston components such as compression rings and oil rings...
As far as there being a lot if junk in the intake, many motors have a crankcase ventilation system and more often than not it is hooked into intake vacuum. It can build up into a fairly large mass over the years. Flushing that mass through the valves and piston makes my sphincter tighten. Not for me, I clean it whenever I have to take it apart for a gasket or whatever, other than that I leave it alone.
I've always been skeptical of this. The trash in the intake gets flushed, in mostly one big lump, through the intake valves, into the pistons and rings and hopefully out the exhaust valve and eventually ends up in the CAT and then hopefully is burnt up or eventually moves out the exhaust.. A little to much "hope" in the process IMO for a reliable and consistent outcome.
As far as there being a lot if junk in the intake, many motors have a crankcase ventilation system and more often than not it is hooked into intake vacuum. It can build up into a fairly large mass over the years. Flushing that mass through the valves and piston makes my sphincter tighten. Not for me, I clean it whenever I have to take it apart for a gasket or whatever, other than that I leave it alone.
Assuming one has an air filter, what trash is in the intake? The trash is accumulated in the combustion chamber through the process of combustion that can and does leaving behind harmful deposits on moving parts.
I can't speak for him, but the latter half of his post describes gasses from the crankcase condensing and eventually solidifying in the intake system. "Trash" and "junk" may have been ill-chosen.
If he is referring to blow-by contaminating the intake ports through the crankcase ventilation system then the engine is worn out. If it is contaminates caused by a manifold leak from engine oil or coolant than thats caused from a faulty gasket or a porous manifold.
quote:Originally posted by MudderChuck
I've always been skeptical of this. The trash in the intake gets flushed, in mostly one big lump, through the intake valves, into the pistons and rings and hopefully out the exhaust valve and eventually ends up in the CAT and then hopefully is burnt up or eventually moves out the exhaust.. A little to much "hope" in the process IMO for a reliable and consistent outcome.
As far as there being a lot if junk in the intake, many motors have a crankcase ventilation system and more often than not it is hooked into intake vacuum. It can build up into a fairly large mass over the years. Flushing that mass through the valves and piston makes my sphincter tighten. Not for me, I clean it whenever I have to take it apart for a gasket or whatever, other than that I leave it alone.
Assuming one has an air filter, what trash is in the intake? The trash is accumulated in the combustion chamber through the process of combustion that can and does leaving behind harmful deposits on moving parts.
Like I said many motors have a crankcase ventilation system that in effect sucks the oil fumes from the crankcase into the intake manifold, it builds up over the years. TBI also adds to the junk in the intake if you have one, the leftovers from the fuel tend to coast the inside of the intake. You also have carbon, more often than not, built up on the piston tops or the back of the exhaust vales and assorted buildup on the back of the intake vale and the port area. Using say, my Jeep 4.0 as an example, I could likely collect at least half a coffee cup full of assorted trash and deposits from these areas, more likely a cup full. The thought of flushing half or even a full cup full of assorted leftovers and carbon through my motor gives me the willies (pun intended).
I'll take anybodies word for it who says flushing that stuff through the motor is beneficial. Personally, if I take it apart I clean it in a bucket and reassemble it clean and avoid the trip thorough the combustion chamber, the exhaust valves the CAT, muffler and hopefully the exhaust pipe.
Whatever toots your whistle is fine by me, it's your motor do what you think is best. I've had a pretty good assortment of motors apart over the years, I've likely spent more time cleaning the crap out of motors than I have making babies.[:D]
Carbon itself is actually a pretty good abrasive.
I remember when I was working at Caterpillar. One of our instructors told us the story about the engineer that convinced somebody that putting a teaspoon full of Babbit cleanser (a really fine abrasive) into each cylinder during assembly would help accelerate break in and would aid in ring seating. The company almost went broke replacing motors. The moral of his story was, do it like we tell you and don't experiment, our methods are tried and proven. What seems like a really good idea, may not be.
Just wanted to hear if anyone else besides my small part of the earth had even heard of such a thing.
My truck has 270,000 miles on it & I'd be afraid it would choke, back fire, & blow the motor out from under the hood![:D][:D][:D]
The truck has had a shake or vibration when you accelerate against a grade or head wind for a few years. I was wondering if the carbon build up would cause the shake/vibrations. I'm just keeping it going until I get done with school.
Where does all of that carbon and gunk go that the seafoam softened up and dissolved inside of the cylinders, heads, valves and intake while the engine sits their for that 15 minutes?
It sure does not go up and out.
I've used Chevron Techron fuel additive for years and love it. When I had m 97 mustang cobra I could feel the difference after I used it. I would use it in one tank every 3000 miles and it would improve my performance and gas mileage slightly
Oh and BTW
Water is the way we use to do it back in the 60-early 70's.
More than once we had to R&R cylendor heads and replace a bent valve.
It is a gamble.
Its no gamble if you trickle it slow and quit as soon as the engine rpm starts to slow down. I have done this for years and NEVER had any carbon jam valves or bend any valves. You cannot hydro lock a running engine by trickling the water in.
I have saw a few fools flood and engine with Seafoam. I have also saw a few fools go looking for an engine soon after also.
Where does all of that carbon and gunk go that the seafoam softened up and dissolved inside of the cylinders, heads, valves and intake while the engine sits their for that 15 minutes?
It sure does not go up and out.
I have noticed that when this happens it generally goes into the oil...then to be collected by the oil filter. Thats why I always do oil changes after doing this....I notice the oil is almost always much more filthy looking after doing this than on a reg. change.