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quote:Originally posted by Big Sky Redneck
quote:Originally posted by dcon12
quote:Originally posted by Big Sky Redneck
Do you see more than two wires there? Don
So what do I do, wire two hots directly to it from a dual breaker and just connect the bare ground wire to the screw under the tabs?
That is what I would do. Just be careful as the same ones who do not want Government intervention will say that I do not know code. Code is for wimps. Don
quote:Originally posted by Big Sky Redneck
Ok, this thing is 240V 15A, not 20 or 30 or....., 15A.
The only 240V breaker they had was this one, I'll try and find another, guess a trip to Bozeman is in order.
Now here is where I'm confused, all the US 240V I have seen is three wire, two hots and a neutral plus the ground wire. This thing from what I see wires like a 120V with only two wires. I know 120V + 120V = 240 but how is this going to work with two hots only?
I was a generator mechanic for awhile in Kuwait before moving over to MRAPS and I have wired many test banks and set gens for 120V/208V and 240V. The compressor got me stumped, it looks like it wires like a Euro 240 which is identical to our 120V wiring except they generate 240V whereas we combine two 120Vs to get 240V.
I'm friggin confused [B)]
I will help you.
1) find out the recommended BREAKER for your compressor. The LOAD is most likely 15AMPS at start up. You rate a breaker for an OVERLOAD not operating AMPS. You can run 80% of a breakers rated load so you need a 20 amp breaker.
The VOLTAGE is the POTENTIAL between two points. To get 220 you have to read between both lines. If you read pole to pole on the breaker you have it will read ZERO, it is the same line.
You need a reference for ZERO, in most cases it is the ground. If you look at a ground they eventually tie to the neutral someplace but are not the same electrically.
One 110 vac leg measured to ground is one half of your circuit. You need another leg 90 degrees out of phase to register a difference in potential between them. So your 110 leg L1 coupled to the 110 leg L2 gives you 220vac POTENTIAL between the poles. Each leg will measure 110 to ground.
A neutral is needed if you split one leg from a 220 service and use it to power 110 vac items, again it is the 110 leg that uses the neutral not the 220 service. The ground is a SAFETY. it is a path to ground that does not use your body to short to.
your breaker is a 115vac space saver. You need two spaces open in a ROW to service your compressor with a 20 amp 220vac breaker identifiable because the legs are attached to each other with a bar creating a common trip. You do not need a neutral, you do need a ground. 12 ga wire is fine, if you want to get * solder the stake ons for better conduction.
quote:Originally posted by Mercury
The real question: Are you SURE that the compressor requires 220v? It isn't clear from the shot of the instruction manual.
Some motors can be wired both ways, it appears that yours might be that way. You need to make sure before you go hooking it up and letting the smoke out!
Merc
Bingo- the pic he shows is a 115 V plug. A lot of compressors will let you wire it 115 or 220 V. The pressure regulator is now wired for 115 v so just hook a 115V heavy line up to it matching the color of the black and white wires you show and then ground the ground wire from the cord or wire to the metal bracket. You most likely already have 15-20 amp 115V plugs in the garage so just plug it in to the wall outlet and flip the lever on the pressure switch on the compressor to turn it on.
The directions will tell you how the motois wired from the manufacturer but all duel voltage motors usually are wired to run on 115V and you have to switch the motor wired inside the motor inspection plate for 220 as shown on the schematic on the motor.
quote:Originally posted by Big Sky Redneck
Ok, this thing is 240V 15A, not 20 or 30 or....., 15A.
The only 240V breaker they had was this one, I'll try and find another, guess a trip to Bozeman is in order.
Now here is where I'm confused, all the US 240V I have seen is three wire, two hots and a neutral plus the ground wire. This thing from what I see wires like a 120V with only two wires. I know 120V + 120V = 240 but how is this going to work with two hots only?
I was a generator mechanic for awhile in Kuwait before moving over to MRAPS and I have wired many test banks and set gens for 120V/208V and 240V. The compressor got me stumped, it looks like it wires like a Euro 240 which is identical to our 120V wiring except they generate 240V whereas we combine two 120Vs to get 240V.
I'm friggin confused [B)]
Hello Confused! All the electrical work is between the two electrical hot lines. As explained here:
quote:All the electrical is between the two hot leads (on the plug and receptacle it is the horizontal contacts. The Ground (or neutral) is the U shaped part of the plug.
?The problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money.?
Margaret Thatcher
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
Mark Twain
quote:Originally posted by Big Sky Redneck
quote:Originally posted by dcon12
quote:Originally posted by Big Sky Redneck
Do you see more than two wires there? Don
So what do I do, wire two hots directly to it from a dual breaker and just connect the bare ground wire to the screw under the tabs?
The black and white wire hooked to the pressure switch looks to me like it goes on a cord. Does it? If so, is the cord 110 or 220?
EDIT: I looked at your first pic, the wires probably go to the motor?
The yellow connectors above them that are empty get a red and black wire off a 220 set, I see no place for a white or bare wire to be used so you won't need them(unless the scews on the plate or frame are for the ground, hard to see in pic with extra flash). 12ga or 10ga is what you need for 15A.(12ga ia what I's use for your switch power)
Do I see a green screw? That would normaly be for the bare ground wire. The 220 plug you have has a plug for the bare ground. What confuses me is that the wires on the compressor are black and white that would normaly be 110 volt, black hot and white neutral and the gree screw for the bare ground. 220 volt wires are usualy red and black for the two hot wires and the bare ground goes to the green screw. You may want to have someone localy who realy knows this stuff to look at it. If I was there it would be simple. Hate to say for sure from here. If you hook it up for 110 and it runs fine it is 110. If it is supposed to be 220 it will just hum when you plug it in. If so, immediately unplug it and re wire for 220.
Comments
quote:Originally posted by dcon12
quote:Originally posted by Big Sky Redneck
Do you see more than two wires there? Don
So what do I do, wire two hots directly to it from a dual breaker and just connect the bare ground wire to the screw under the tabs?
That is what I would do. Just be careful as the same ones who do not want Government intervention will say that I do not know code. Code is for wimps. Don
Ok, this thing is 240V 15A, not 20 or 30 or....., 15A.
The only 240V breaker they had was this one, I'll try and find another, guess a trip to Bozeman is in order.
Now here is where I'm confused, all the US 240V I have seen is three wire, two hots and a neutral plus the ground wire. This thing from what I see wires like a 120V with only two wires. I know 120V + 120V = 240 but how is this going to work with two hots only?
I was a generator mechanic for awhile in Kuwait before moving over to MRAPS and I have wired many test banks and set gens for 120V/208V and 240V. The compressor got me stumped, it looks like it wires like a Euro 240 which is identical to our 120V wiring except they generate 240V whereas we combine two 120Vs to get 240V.
I'm friggin confused [B)]
I will help you.
1) find out the recommended BREAKER for your compressor. The LOAD is most likely 15AMPS at start up. You rate a breaker for an OVERLOAD not operating AMPS. You can run 80% of a breakers rated load so you need a 20 amp breaker.
The VOLTAGE is the POTENTIAL between two points. To get 220 you have to read between both lines. If you read pole to pole on the breaker you have it will read ZERO, it is the same line.
You need a reference for ZERO, in most cases it is the ground. If you look at a ground they eventually tie to the neutral someplace but are not the same electrically.
One 110 vac leg measured to ground is one half of your circuit. You need another leg 90 degrees out of phase to register a difference in potential between them. So your 110 leg L1 coupled to the 110 leg L2 gives you 220vac POTENTIAL between the poles. Each leg will measure 110 to ground.
A neutral is needed if you split one leg from a 220 service and use it to power 110 vac items, again it is the 110 leg that uses the neutral not the 220 service. The ground is a SAFETY. it is a path to ground that does not use your body to short to.
your breaker is a 115vac space saver. You need two spaces open in a ROW to service your compressor with a 20 amp 220vac breaker identifiable because the legs are attached to each other with a bar creating a common trip. You do not need a neutral, you do need a ground. 12 ga wire is fine, if you want to get * solder the stake ons for better conduction.
movie Dirty Harry
Neal
The real question: Are you SURE that the compressor requires 220v? It isn't clear from the shot of the instruction manual.
Some motors can be wired both ways, it appears that yours might be that way. You need to make sure before you go hooking it up and letting the smoke out!
Merc
Bingo- the pic he shows is a 115 V plug. A lot of compressors will let you wire it 115 or 220 V. The pressure regulator is now wired for 115 v so just hook a 115V heavy line up to it matching the color of the black and white wires you show and then ground the ground wire from the cord or wire to the metal bracket. You most likely already have 15-20 amp 115V plugs in the garage so just plug it in to the wall outlet and flip the lever on the pressure switch on the compressor to turn it on.
The directions will tell you how the motois wired from the manufacturer but all duel voltage motors usually are wired to run on 115V and you have to switch the motor wired inside the motor inspection plate for 220 as shown on the schematic on the motor.
Ok, this thing is 240V 15A, not 20 or 30 or....., 15A.
The only 240V breaker they had was this one, I'll try and find another, guess a trip to Bozeman is in order.
Now here is where I'm confused, all the US 240V I have seen is three wire, two hots and a neutral plus the ground wire. This thing from what I see wires like a 120V with only two wires. I know 120V + 120V = 240 but how is this going to work with two hots only?
I was a generator mechanic for awhile in Kuwait before moving over to MRAPS and I have wired many test banks and set gens for 120V/208V and 240V. The compressor got me stumped, it looks like it wires like a Euro 240 which is identical to our 120V wiring except they generate 240V whereas we combine two 120Vs to get 240V.
I'm friggin confused [B)]
Hello Confused! All the electrical work is between the two electrical hot lines. As explained here:
quote:All the electrical is between the two hot leads (on the plug and receptacle it is the horizontal contacts. The Ground (or neutral) is the U shaped part of the plug.
Margaret Thatcher
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
Mark Twain
quote:Originally posted by dcon12
quote:Originally posted by Big Sky Redneck
Do you see more than two wires there? Don
So what do I do, wire two hots directly to it from a dual breaker and just connect the bare ground wire to the screw under the tabs?
The black and white wire hooked to the pressure switch looks to me like it goes on a cord. Does it? If so, is the cord 110 or 220?
EDIT: I looked at your first pic, the wires probably go to the motor?
The yellow connectors above them that are empty get a red and black wire off a 220 set, I see no place for a white or bare wire to be used so you won't need them(unless the scews on the plate or frame are for the ground, hard to see in pic with extra flash). 12ga or 10ga is what you need for 15A.(12ga ia what I's use for your switch power)
Let's just keep beating this electrocuted horse!
The white wire is often used as a hot wire in a 220V circuit.
Never cut into one assuming it is a neutral before confirming.
Have a nice day!
Found something for you to look at.
Guy is kinda a goober but he gives the info I think you are looking for.
He uses a dryer plug so ignore that part.