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Perry Shooter / Small Engine Experts
Dads3040
Member Posts: 13,552 ✭✭✭
I replaced the rod and piston in my 8 HP I/C B&S that powers a Troy Bilt Horse Tiller. When I went to time the cam to the crank, I found that there is no mark on teh crank gear because the roller bearing obscures it. The online forums mentioned a mark on the crankshaft couterweight that is used to align the cam to the crank. I aligned the mark I found with what I thought was the corresponding tooth on the camshaft.
When I try to start it, I get nothing. Spark is good. Fuel is good. But it seems to spit back through the carb. As I turn the engine over by hand, there doesn't seem to be much compression built up, but it will blow my finger off the plug hole.
I put a degree wheel on the crank, and did a quick check of valve timing using my fingers in the valve/pushrod access cover.
What I get is the Intake valve beginning to open at 35* BTDC and closing at 30* ABDC. The Exhaust valve begins to open at 70* BBDC and closes at 10* BTDC.
This is of course the valve beginning to move, so it makes the duration longer than a normal cam duration measurement, but it seems that the beginning points of movement are a tad early...like maybe I am a tooth off?
Any thoughts? I am trying to avoid tearing the stupid thing back apart before I am sure that is the problem. Thanks All.
When I try to start it, I get nothing. Spark is good. Fuel is good. But it seems to spit back through the carb. As I turn the engine over by hand, there doesn't seem to be much compression built up, but it will blow my finger off the plug hole.
I put a degree wheel on the crank, and did a quick check of valve timing using my fingers in the valve/pushrod access cover.
What I get is the Intake valve beginning to open at 35* BTDC and closing at 30* ABDC. The Exhaust valve begins to open at 70* BBDC and closes at 10* BTDC.
This is of course the valve beginning to move, so it makes the duration longer than a normal cam duration measurement, but it seems that the beginning points of movement are a tad early...like maybe I am a tooth off?
Any thoughts? I am trying to avoid tearing the stupid thing back apart before I am sure that is the problem. Thanks All.
Comments
Crack the case apart, pull the bearing and be sure the timing marks are aligned.
Cams run at 1/2 crank speed so turning the cam 180 will keep the valve timing as you noted but on the 'other' (of 4) stroke.
This will (might) get your ignition times and valve timing where they should be.
Don
[:D]
I see no point in chasing possibles. I might as well just bite the bullet and go in to check to see if the timing or something else is off.
Thanks for the input.
And fiery auto crashes
Some will die in hot pursuit
While sifting through my ashes
Some will fall in love with life
And drink it from a fountain
That is pouring like an avalanche
Coming down the mountain
Is it not possible to transfer the mark to someplace you can see?
There is a mark on the crankshaft counterweight, but it wasn't well defined and there is more variation in how the 'alignment' is judged than there is when a tooth is marked to correspond with a space between two teeth.
I should have been more careful when I took it apart, but the case was stuck pretty good and the cam popped out when I opened it up.
Tearing it back apart isn't the end of the world, since it is a one lung B&S, but it just annoys me. I was ready to be done with this thing and get it sold. The 5 HP Troy Bilt Pony I got from my FIL is all the tiller this fat old man wants to wrestle around these days.