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Ignorant question of the day.
84Bravo1
Member Posts: 10,461 ✭✭
Okay, I won the very nice Pachmayer recoil pad from Oakie as a GAW.
My question, is how the hell do you mount it, when the base plate is drilled for the screws, but the rubber recoil pad is not??
I've been looking at this thing for a while now, and I am at a loss.
It is a very nice pad, going on an equally nice, period correct firearm.
I do not want to screw it up.
What am I missing here??
Smart * comments, musings, input, helpful insights, and others, all welcomed.
Give me your best shot. [:0]
My question, is how the hell do you mount it, when the base plate is drilled for the screws, but the rubber recoil pad is not??
I've been looking at this thing for a while now, and I am at a loss.
It is a very nice pad, going on an equally nice, period correct firearm.
I do not want to screw it up.
What am I missing here??
Smart * comments, musings, input, helpful insights, and others, all welcomed.
Give me your best shot. [:0]
Comments
Make cer6tain that whoever puts the pad on for you uses the existing screw holes instead of drilling new ones.
I was hoping to do it myself. I can not see paying someone to do it for me.
(And) I have already considered the existing holes into the scenario.
Why would they drill the base plate, but not drill the pad??
quote:Originally posted by kimi
Make cer6tain that whoever puts the pad on for you uses the existing screw holes instead of drilling new ones.
I was hoping to do it myself. I can not see paying someone to do it for me.
(And) I have already considered the existing holes into the scenario.
Why would they drill the base plate, but not drill the pad??
Like said earlier, push an awl up from the base plate. The holes are there.
quote:Originally posted by kimi
Make cer6tain that whoever puts the pad on for you uses the existing screw holes instead of drilling new ones.
I was hoping to do it myself. I can not see paying someone to do it for me.
(And) I have already considered the existing holes into the scenario.
Why would they drill the base plate, but not drill the pad??
Good that you are doing it yourself, but I cannot answer your question with any amount of guaranteed accuracy, although I have one similar on an old rifle.
Added: Can you post a picture of it?
quote:Originally posted by 84Bravo1
quote:Originally posted by kimi
Make cer6tain that whoever puts the pad on for you uses the existing screw holes instead of drilling new ones.
I was hoping to do it myself. I can not see paying someone to do it for me.
(And) I have already considered the existing holes into the scenario.
Why would they drill the base plate, but not drill the pad??
Good that you are doing it yourself, but I cannot answer your question with any amount of guaranteed accuracy, although I have one similar on an old rifle.
That is the only conclusion I can come to. (Epoxy of some sort.)
I also thank you for your input, gearheaddad.
I have no idea, but when I can't figure out some things I check for you-tube videos. Pachmyr may also h,ave help video or on-line copy of installation instructions.
I was thinking of this avenue, while trying to go to sleep last night. I figured you very well informed gentlemen would be of more help though. Hence my post here.
Thanks to all.
holes can be cleanly drilled in rubber, but it must be frozen stiff, holding proper spacing is the problem because of material shrinkage then expansion. if the coefficient of the expansion is known then proper spacing can be achieved
quote:Originally posted by 84Bravo1
quote:Originally posted by kimi
Make cer6tain that whoever puts the pad on for you uses the existing screw holes instead of drilling new ones.
I was hoping to do it myself. I can not see paying someone to do it for me.
(And) I have already considered the existing holes into the scenario.
Why would they drill the base plate, but not drill the pad??
Like said earlier, push an awl up from the base plate. The holes are there.
Interesting!
Damn Ken, I never noticed that. I gave three of them away here over the last year. Cannot remember to whom though. I will ask pop tonight, when he gets home. They were from his old store and I am sure he will know the answer. Oakie
Thanks Oakie. I was hoping you would see this, and have some input. I await your reply Sir.
Thank you.
-Ken-
If you are determined to use the existing holes, then the transfer pin advice is spot on. You can make your own easily enough, with a piece of steel rod the right diameter, sharpened and cut to length. Easier to sharpen it, then cut it.
Personally, I would plug the old holes if they don't line up, and use the holes in the pad for a guide to drill new one. Use the sharp awl/Nail procedure for this, too, and make sure you drill the correct size holes.
Also, soap on the screw threads will make them go in easier, and reduce the chance of cracking the stock.
Peace
Dan
Edited to add: If this is a gun you care about, and you have never done this before, I would certainly advise you to pay someone who knows what he is doing, and then, if you want to learn, do it on an old junker.
Again, Peace
Dan
quote:Originally posted by kimi
Make cer6tain that whoever puts the pad on for you uses the existing screw holes instead of drilling new ones.
Kimi ,,,,,,,sometimes you 'have' to drill new holes and plug the old ones,,,,,,most use a short piece of dowel,,,,,,,however you can buy 'tapered' plug cutters that work good.
If you have stripped screw holes and want to use the original pad you really don't have a choice but to plug and drill new holes,,,,,
Thanks, Bill! Check this picture out for me. I don't see any sign of a slit or holes in the rubber:
It sounds a though a scratch awl from the base plate holes, will indeed reveal the entry holes, in the rubber pad surface.
I have installed recoil pads on various firearms in the past. (I also used to work as a finish Carpenter. I am not ignorant as to proper procedure.) I was however, confused, as to no holes, in the rubber pad surface though.
I will be going for installation with the holes provided in the pad, versus the holes in the firearm.
Going on a flaming bomb, Stevens riot pump 12 ga.
Use an air nailer with ring shank coated nails. If the heads stick up a bit just bend them over with a 24 ounce waffle head framing hammer to match the recoil pad pattern.
Not sure if you are kidding or not?? I can indeed shoot ring shank nails into the pad, firearm butt. Rather than "bending them over, I would use a punch to sink to depth.
Anyone??
On reflection, I believe a screw, where you can adjust tightness, would be the correct way to proceed.
A nail, leaves luttlecroom for adjustment, as to fit. JMHO.
Kimi,,,,,,here's an example on one of my guns.
Notice the left side of the recoil pad(no hole or slit) ,,,,,,the right side was identical until I probed with the punch,,,,,,and now you can see the slit and the punch is resting on the screw embedded in the pad.
Try probing yours and see what happens,,,,,,,
I agree Forge.
I can feel the holes under the recoil pad surface, about 1/8" down. Pretty much tells me, all I need to know. I appreciate all replies though.
Thank you Gentlemen. As always, most helpful.
Thank you so much.
This is a very nice pad, hence my desire to do it right. Thanks.
-Ken-
Dish soap or was works rather well.
I prefer to use 'Philips' head screws to mount butt pads. The round shaft on the drivers is easier on the butt pad rubber.
Have Ricci do it, he can fix anything
But it is not "Shiny," or a .40 cal. [:0][}:)]
(And) it is already a firearm that came from Ricci. It does not need the "water based, hard brown protective coating." It's already been applied.
I was joking about the nails, I could just see some poor slob using a framing nailer hoping against hope he did not split the wood. [:D]
quote:Originally posted by forgemonkey
Kimi,,,,,,here's an example on one of my guns.
Notice the left side of the recoil pad(no hole or slit) ,,,,,,the right side was identical until I probed with the punch,,,,,,and now you can see the slit and the punch is resting on the screw embedded in the pad.
Try probing yours and see what happens,,,,,,,
I agree Forge.
I can feel the holes under the recoil pad surface, about 1/8" down. Pretty much tells me, all I need to know. I appreciate all replies though.
Thank you Gentlemen. As always, most helpful.
Thanks Bill, you, too, Ken!
Screw the screws, glue it on.
If so, what type of glue, would you recommend??
Check Brownells, they have a couple of good ones.
I use this one.
http://tinyurl.com/cn78mrx
As I understand this works well also.
http://tinyurl.com/jsnsjcm
There are youtube videos outlining how both are used.
A pair of these is helpful as well if you have a Magnatip or other 1/4" drive screwdriver handle. They're thinner than standard screwdrivers and have less tendency to stretch the rubber.
http://tinyurl.com/h6wjlpv
You can locate the holes in the pad face with a large sharp sewing needle. Grease the needle and insert it through the hole in the back of the pad. Push about 1/2" through and then rub a piece of chalk on the needle. When you pull the needle out it will leave a distinct mark to locate where you will cut a small slit through the rubber. I use a narrow blade exacto knife to cut with. Just a tickle, 1/6"-1/8", wider than the screw head.
That's the easiest way I've come up with to locate for the pad screws. Almost forgot: There's a void inside the pad that's slightly larger than the screw head. No need for thousandths of an inch accuracy.
And don't forget to lube Anything that is put through the pad face. Needle, screws, screwdriver bit, anything. The slightest stretch mark will be unsightly.
When pressing down with an index finger on the pad, I do indeed feel that the holes are there. (Albeit 1/8" down from the feel of it.)
It sounds a though a scratch awl from the base plate holes, will indeed reveal the entry holes, in the rubber pad surface.
I have installed recoil pads on various firearms in the past. (I also used to work as a finish Carpenter. I am not ignorant as to proper procedure.) I was however, confused, as to no holes, in the rubber pad surface though.
I will be going for installation with the holes provided in the pad, versus the holes in the firearm.
Going on a flaming bomb, Stevens riot pump 12 ga.
Just a thought. If that military marked Stevens is in decent shape it might be worth more without the pad. Check the stock to see if it has maybe a faint cartouche. There are a lot of military shotgun collectors.
I have a model 12 military marked riot that has a nice recoil pad on it and has also been checkered. ARRGH!
quote:Originally posted by 84Bravo1
When pressing down with an index finger on the pad, I do indeed feel that the holes are there. (Albeit 1/8" down from the feel of it.)
It sounds a though a scratch awl from the base plate holes, will indeed reveal the entry holes, in the rubber pad surface.
I have installed recoil pads on various firearms in the past. (I also used to work as a finish Carpenter. I am not ignorant as to proper procedure.) I was however, confused, as to no holes, in the rubber pad surface though.
I will be going for installation with the holes provided in the pad, versus the holes in the firearm.
Going on a flaming bomb, Stevens riot pump 12 ga.
Just a thought. If that military marked Stevens is in decent shape it might be worth more without the pad. Check the stock to see if it has maybe a faint cartouche. There are a lot of military shotgun collectors.
I have a model 12 military marked riot that has a nice recoil pad on it and has also been checkered . ARRGH!
I am a "Military Shotgun. collector." The pad that is currently on it, is dry rotted and crumbling. Hence my desire to replace it with a quality pad.
Thank you for the input though.
-Ken-