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Stock re-finishing

DaBowMan18DaBowMan18 Member Posts: 2,962
edited February 2006 in Ask the Experts
I plan on refinishing the stocks on my 870. Any instructions how to? Thanks for any help.

Comments

  • moreammoplzmoreammoplz Member Posts: 463 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Funny you ask.... I am working on an 870 tonight.
    Just bought an old Police Gun 870 Wingmaster today..

    Used stripper to clean off the old finish. Tomorrow sand and Tru Oil for the new finish, several coats and a little hand rubbing to get a nice finish.


    Had to tape up my metal parts though couldn't get the stock off the gun.
  • 260260 Member Posts: 1,133
    edited November -1
    if it is the high gloss stock, plan on using an epoxy stripper and leave the pad or butt plate on while sanding so you don,t round the edges of the stock at this area. just my 2 cents worth.
    david k.
    point blank firearm repair
  • rhmc24rhmc24 Member Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I suggest do your sanding with the butt cap on. If you sand with it off, it tends to round the edge and give a tacky amateurish look to the job. It is possible to do it with the cap on if you use a lot of care.
  • gotstolefromgotstolefrom Member Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Yep, keep the but-plate on, and anywhere else where metal/wood match up. You may need to protect the metal with tape, or just make sure you don't sand those areas when you remove the wood from the metal. You don't want any poor fitting because the wood was removed and no longer matches the metal.

    Start off stripping to minimize the amount of sanding you will do.
    Re-finishing the high gloss stocks is the hardest thing to do...Fortunately I like a hand rubbed semi-gloss finish.
    If there is a commercial antique restoration shop nearby, you may get him to put your woodwork in his vat the next time he strips something. This is a good return on your time for a few bucks. It should come out NAKED, checkering and all, and need only a fine smoothing up before applying the finsish.

    There have been MANY posts on this, so I will add only this:

    * Start with a lot of Time and Patience.
    * When you get down to hand sanding, use a semi-soft foam block between your fingers and the sandpaper.
    * If you use x-fine steel wool in you final smoothing, make sure you get all the 'hairs' out.
    * Depending on the type of finish, you can 'thin' the finishing product for the first coat to help it penetrate into the wood.

    ENJOY
  • DaBowMan18DaBowMan18 Member Posts: 2,962
    edited November -1
    THANKS for the info
  • GuvamintCheeseGuvamintCheese Member Posts: 38,932
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by DaBowMan18
    I plan on refinishing the stocks on my 870. Any instructions how to? Thanks for any help.

    There are entire book written on this subject. What type of finish will go back on? If doing an oil finish make sure to use a grain filler..dont fill the checkering and dont sand the checkering. white line spacers and stripper dont do well together. Leave the butt on when sanding. Ask questions on here if you are uncertain.

    Have fun!
  • DaBowMan18DaBowMan18 Member Posts: 2,962
    edited November -1
  • jaloijaloi Member Posts: 9 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    What I have found that makes a beautiful hand rubbed finish(after staining is applied and dry) is to use the polyurethane of your choice(satin,gloss,semi-gloss)and cut it by 30-50% with mineral spirits.Wearing gloves,spray it on the wood with a hand pump type spray bottle and work it in until it appears to be totally absorbed into the wood.Keep applying coats this way until it seems it is no longer soaking in.What this does is not only provide a gorgeous finish,but since the polyurethane is literally soaked into the wood it makes it very durable! Try it,I think you will like it!
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