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S & W 17-2 Single Action Issue
Clabber
Member Posts: 60 ✭✭
I bought a S&W 17-2 yesterday that has a very smooth and light trigger pull in double action, but it will not function properly in single action mode. The hammer cocks, but when you barely touch the trigger, the hammer goes forward but will not engage the firing pin because the trigger springs forward and the hammer stops before contact. Any thoughts are appreciated. I'm really hoping I can get this one fixed up. It's the first one I've found that I can afford.
Also a DOM would be appreciated. Serial # K788XXX.
Thanks in advance.
Also a DOM would be appreciated. Serial # K788XXX.
Thanks in advance.
Comments
It's a K frame. You need to open it to see what is going on. You need to be able to hold the trigger back or it will spring forward and firing will be blocked.
A 17 they don't have a 17-2 schematic http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/SmithWesson-33495/Revolvers-42026/KFrameRevolvers-38382/17-36783.htm
There were double action only triggers but I don't think you can cock the hammer into a locked position.
added It could have been a hammer modification on a K that wouldn't allow full cocked lock to make them DAO.
2)How much did the work cost?
Get thee to a gunsmith.
Neal
EDIT: The only problem sending it to S&W is the shipping cost: figure $80 each way, as a nonlicensee can only ship a handgun by UPS or FedEx Next Day Air.
Never heard of it being done on a .22 target revolver,though? As I recall, it entailed altering the hammer. To make it double-action only. You are probably going to have to spring for a new hammer. To get it back functioning in single-action mode.
I bought a S&W 17-2 yesterday that has a very smooth and light trigger pull in double action, but it will not function properly in single action mode. The hammer cocks, but when you barely touch the trigger, the hammer goes forward but will not engage the firing pin because the trigger springs forward and the hammer stops before contact. Any thoughts are appreciated. I'm really hoping I can get this one fixed up. It's the first one I've found that I can afford.
Also a DOM would be appreciated. Serial # K788XXX.
Thanks in advance.
Chances are whatever it is can be corrected, especially if it's an "internals" issue as opposed to a frame issue - which, one would presume is the case regarding hammers and triggers. It's a bit of a challenge to isolate what's wrong.
Checking the strain screw is a good first step, as suggested. Kind of like checking the power cord when a TV doesn't work - it's easy & free.
If the gun is a "DA only" revolver then it shouldn't engage at all in SA mode. That it does but slips suggests it's a regular Model 17.
Don't push too hard, but with the pistol cocked give the hammer a little "push" from the rear and see if it slips off the SA sear notch - it may be that someone got a bit too agressive with a stone. If the hammer doesn't "push off" the SA notch is good.
If you feel comfortable with some disassembly I'd remove the sideplate and take a look, it's not all that difficult.
My 1st inclination is that on its way forward the DA sear is engaging the trigger and forcing it forward - that could happen if, as you noted, the SA sear engagement is too light. When the hammer falls (from SA mode) the DA sear should clear the hammer. If it doesn't the sear will push down on the trigger forcing it forward. Sort of "worst case" scenario would be needing to replace the hammer assembly, which is not all that bad.
Attached is a schematic, it may help visualize what's happening.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/SmithWesson-33495/Revolvers-42026/KFrameRevolvers-38382/17-4-36786.htm?results=100
If the trigger rebound spring was clipped then return would be sluggish, but I don't think it would cause the problem you've described. But again, a trigger return spring is easy to replace - costs about $2.00. They come in different weights. I use a 12 lb, which is lighter than usual. A 15 lb should work fine.
There could be something else wrong, or a combination of minor problems. If you disassemble the gun I would clean it also. Never know when that can help, and it can't hurt.
You could ship it to Smith & Wesson, they'll repair it. If you use a local gunsmith be certain it's someone who knows how to work on Smiths.
dfletcher - I tried what you suggested and the slightest bit of pressure on the cocked hammer causes it to disengage the sear.
I also called S&W Customer service and they said it would take 5 weeks to just look at it and another 7 weeks to repair it. He suggested finding a local gunsmith that is familiar with "stoning a trigger for push off". The gun is in excellent condition and I hesitate to touch a screw on it for fear of scarring it up. I'll look for a gunsmith first.....if my curiosity doesn't get the best of me first! I'll let you know how it goes.
I appreciate all the feedback from everyone.
Martin
Thank you Zinderblock for the DOM information.
dfletcher - I tried what you suggested and the slightest bit of pressure on the cocked hammer causes it to disengage the sear.
I also called S&W Customer service and they said it would take 5 weeks to just look at it and another 7 weeks to repair it. He suggested finding a local gunsmith that is familiar with "stoning a trigger for push off". The gun is in excellent condition and I hesitate to touch a screw on it for fear of scarring it up. I'll look for a gunsmith first.....if my curiosity doesn't get the best of me first! I'll let you know how it goes.
I appreciate all the feedback from everyone.
Martin
If the hammer pushes off the SA sear engagement then I'd go with my 1st inclination - the DA sear isn't clearing the trigger's back end (the part that lifts the hammer in DA mode & acts is also the SA sear) but is instead catching the trigger (at the SA sear) and forcing it forward as the hammer falls. I suppose the question is whether the SA sear notch is worn or whether the SA sear on the hammer is worn. Either can cause the push off. Either can be (sometimes) re-established but it has to be done by someone with skill & knowledge.
Re-establishing the SA sear and/or SA sear notch may not correct the trigger issue. Just supposition, but the DA sear may have to be adjusted too.
There certainly are gunsmiths out there who can do the work, it's exacting work but not especially complicated. Maybe you know other shooters who can recommend someone?
The sure fix is sending it to Smith. The repair time will pass (slowly) but in the end you'll know the gun is properly repaired.
My son told me about a gunsmith that did custom gun work that turned out to be only about 10 miles away - Clements Custom Guns! I called and discussed the issue with David and he agreed to take a look at it. I took it to him at lunch today and he had it completely disassembled and diagnosed in less than 5 minutes. The Single action sear on the hammer had worn in a straight line all the way across the hammer. I had to go on back to work and he called in a couple of hours and said It was ready to pick up. He milled the hammer to reshape the sear and heat treated the sear area of the hammer to make it harder. It works great and has a wonderful trigger now. Check out his website: http://www.clementscustomguns.com/
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Martin