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Cold blueing
diamondpete
Member Posts: 71 ✭✭
I have a couple of older handguns that aren't in the collector catagory that I'd like to cold reblue for cosmetic purposes. What is the best product and method on the market to use??? Thanks.
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http://forums.gunbroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=324156
Based on the thread responses and some other research I did, I ordered some of the Van's cold blue direct from the factory online.
Supposedly the Van's actually creates a real (but thin) coat of black iron oxide, akin to hot-bluing, where as the other products just deposit copper sulfate, which looks like bluing, but is much less wear resistant (and smells really bad!).
http://www.vansgunblue.com/
Not only did I receive my order in only 2 days, but the invoice was signed "Best wishes, Jim Van"!
Anyway, the stuff works quickly and pretty well, and I would definitely recommend it.
I just followed the directions exactly. De-greased the gun with dry ethanol (ie denatured alcohol, but I'm sure other solvents would work), heated for 30 seconds with a hair dryer, then applied the solution with a Q-tip. The finish immediately turns black, getting a little darker with time. I stopped the blackening by rubbing with a gun patch soaked in CLP.
No gloves, no smell.
If there were rust (there wasn't in my case), I'd try taking it off with naval jelly. The instructions suggest buffing with super fine steel wool to get a nice smooth finish, but the gun in question was pretty smooth already, so I didn't bother.
Unfortunately, I don't have a before and after picture to show you, but I will be doing another gun and posting the before and after in the next week or two (in a separate thread).
Edit:
Hot blue is a little off the subject.
Personally, I'm too chicken to try and detail strip a Smith revolver but all the more power to you, if you can.
Hot bluing requires the use of both high temperatures (actually above boiling), and caustic chemicals, so beware.
Its uglier, but if I were to try a home (re)finish, I think Parkerizing is both more durable and probably a bit easier.
Even Vans does not work great. It wears very quickly. I use it for small touch ups only.
http://www.blindhogg.com/homemadesalts.html
I found about three cycles did it the several times I have used it. Gives a blue black satin kind of finish. I was not able to get a shiny polished look. Even on a highly polished piece it came out satin.
Said to be very durable but I haven't put it to any test.
Not cold blue but not too far removed is Belgian Blue, avail from Brownell's and others. After the usual prep you heat the part in boiling water, quickly take it out and put on the Belgian fluid, same as with cold blue. Repeat a few times till as dark as you like.
I found about three cycles did it the several times I have used it. Gives a blue black satin kind of finish. I was not able to get a shiny polished look. Even on a highly polished piece it came out satin.
Said to be very durable but I haven't put it to any test.
That is hot water bluing. It is basically a fast version of rust bluing. You cant get a polished finish because when you use rust to blue, it etches the metal slightly.