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Sig Sauer P225/p6 slides out without stopping

nmikmiknmikmik Member Posts: 4 ✭✭
edited September 2008 in Ask the Experts
My friend bought one of these, nice looking gun, but i am not sure if it is a "normal" behavior.

When i pull the slide all the way back and then release the slider catch it literally shoots out without stopping. If i do the same thing while holding the slide with other hand, it does the same thing but i can feel it is trying to catch and stop at some point. My concern is, when we go shooting together tomorrow it will do the same thing and jump out of the gun on the return. Don't know if i explained it rite i don't have a good grip on the terms.

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    perry shooterperry shooter Member Posts: 17,390
    edited November -1
    My suggestion is DO NOT FIRE THIS PISTOL EVEN ONCE it sounds like the pistol is not assembled correctly. I don't have a sig 225 but .if it was a 1911 I would say the slide stop pin is not installed or installed outside of the barrel link.
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    Wehrmacht_45Wehrmacht_45 Member Posts: 3,377
    edited November -1
    Not normal at all. The gun is broken, probably in the take down lever area.

    Take it to a smith and have it checked out.
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    beantownshootahbeantownshootah Member Posts: 12,776 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Nah, they all do that! [}:)][}:)][}:)]

    Seriously, if you press the slide stop and the gun flies apart, that's a problem. If you can even get it to fire, it would almost certainly do that after firing, and this could be pretty unsafe.

    You need to have the gun checked out by someone who knows guns (eg a gunsmith) before firing this.

    Next thing, you should NOT release the slide from a locked back position by pressing the slide stop, unless you are loading a bullet from a magazine in the chamber.

    The bullet loading into the chamber acts to cushion the fall of the slide.

    If you do this with an empty gun (particularly repeatedly), the spring-loaded pressure of the steel slide slamming into the steel frame can damage the gun.

    Its even possible that doing this repeatedly is the cause of the problem you are having.

    If the gun is unloaded and the slide is locked back, you should cushion the slide with the other hand when releasing the slide stop, to prevent this battering.
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    TxsTxs Member Posts: 18,801
    edited November -1
    I agree that the pistol is unsafe to fire in this condition and needs to be examined by someone who's qualified.

    Out of curiousity....

    On the left side (non-serial number side) there's a lever located above and slightly forward of the trigger guard. This is the takedown lever.

    When conducting a field strip when all is normal, you'd lock the slide to the rear, rotate this lever down, then grasp the slide and push the slide catch down. The slide can then slid forward off the frame.

    What happens when you lock the slide to the rear and attempt to rotate the takedown lever downward?

    dcs shooters - That's one reason I described that procedure. [;)]
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    dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,969
    edited November -1
    OR IS IT POINTED DOWN NOW [?][?]The take down lever has to be pointed to the rear. If it isn't and the slide comes off, something is worn or broken. I have a 226 that has about 30,000rds through it, and it locks tight still. The P-6's I've looked at haven't looked like they have very many rounds through them.
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    nmikmiknmikmik Member Posts: 4 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks A LOT !
    I have to warn him and probably take my CZ with me anyway, just in case. I was actually looking forward to shoot from Sig because I was planning to buy one too. Oh well, safety first - must.
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    nmikmiknmikmik Member Posts: 4 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    thanks again,

    A. was able to shoot it today after asking the owner of the range
    & yes Txs - the takedown lever was in the wrong position after we rotated it (pointed to the front) it worked just great.
    B. I volunteered to clean it [B)] and now not sure if I can use the same solvents that i use on CZ52. This gun seems to be made of some kind of composite material that could be damaged by brake parts cleaner that i successfully use on my CZ52. The manual i downloaded from the net does not mention any firing pin cleaning (a must done procedure on my CZ) or disassemble of the mechanism.
    So what should i clean it with? I did clean the barel with BP cleaner assuming no harm done there it was not that dirty to begin with.
    Thanks!
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    gunnut505gunnut505 Member Posts: 10,290
    edited November -1
    I'm pretty sure the manual didn't mention brake cleaner as a recommended solvent because they would never think of doing that to a gun that may have to function reliably for many years, and someone's life may depend on.
    That being said, you can use gasoline if you want, the darn things are almost indestructible polymer and will take all the abuse you want to give it. A sign of a well-made gun. If you RTFM 1st.
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    dcs shootersdcs shooters Member Posts: 10,969
    edited November -1
    The Sig 225 has a aluminum frame. The only polymer is the grips.
    Why not use Hoppies or some regular gun cleaning solution?
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    TxsTxs Member Posts: 18,801
    edited November -1
    For what it's worth, the only thing SIG says about recommended cleaning products is that you use 'products designed for guns'. GunScrubber is basically nothing more than non-chlorinated brake cleaner, so I don't really see an issue with using it instead. Just be sure and apply some sort of oil afterwards and don't saturate night sites with it. It can damage those little capsules that hold the glow juice.

    SIG firing pins are a bear to remove. The P6 has a seperate breech block that's held in the slide by a double roll pin assembly which passes all the way through the slide (visible just to the rear of the ejection port). This pin assembly has to be driven out and the breech block removed to access the firing pin and extractor. Be aware that these pins are one time use items, meaning that when it comes time for reassembly new ones are required.

    The good news is that their recommended firing pin maintenance schedule is pretty long. To give you an idea, even for law enforcement guns carried in an open holster on a daily basis SIG recommends removal for cleaning and inspection either every 3 years or 5000 rounds, whichever comes first.

    On this pistol the portion of the firing pin channel immediately to the rear of the breech face is slightly conical rather than just a long straight hole and the firing pin has a corresponding taper. When in it's extreme forward position (time of ignition) the firing pin acts to seal the firing pin channel, which means there's much less opportunity for debris to be blown back in there. This conical channel/tapered pin design also means there's much less chance of the firing pin seizing up in the channel.

    Just placing a few drops of good oil in there at each cleaning will do you well.
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