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Remington 870 experts...

cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
edited September 2008 in Ask the Experts
I have an 11 year old 870 Super Mag that after as many seasons of hard hunting and target shooting was getting a little worn. I have very basic knowledge of smithing and fix things when I can. I ordered a bunch of parts and a informative book/manual on the 870. I replaced all the parts I felt comfortable with.

I realize now that the ejector/ejector spring is probably gunsmith only, as are the shell latches. However, I also wanted to replace the action bar lock and firing pin/firing pin spring but cant get either out because of the factory staking I assume (on the firing pin retaining pin and hammer pivot pin).

Can anyone tell me if I am going to need a smith for these also or am I making this to hard on myself. I had a great gunsmith in the area but he left the state after becoming (understandably) tired of Illinois firearm laws. Sorry to get so long winded and thank you in advance.

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    BT99BT99 Member Posts: 1,043
    edited November -1
    Replacing ejector requires some special tools. So I would leave that to a gunsmith. Firing pin and firing pin spring can be replaced easily. Drift out the retaining pin in the bolt to remove them. To remove the hammer pin, you're going to need to drill out the staked part of the pin.. This pin is a single use pin, needs to be replaced if it ever removed. Use a 5/32 drill bit to remove the staking on the pin and then
    drift it out, it also holds the slide lock, If you look on the side opposite the slide lock you will see the staking that holds it in. Also there is a washer under the staking. Should be able to use the washer again but the hammer pin is only used once and replaced if ever removed.
    SHell latches are staked in, but can be replaced and staked in with a staking tool. Every thing you need should be available from Brownells.
    Get a blown up schematic to see how things go in.
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    cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    BT99-

    Thank you very much for your post.

    I tried to drift out the firing pin retaining pin but it wouldn't budge?

    I didn't know the hammer pin was a one time deal, I'll have to order one. When I do I suppose Ill order the latch staking tool since I have multiple 870's.

    One other question: I bought a Meprolight tritium bead for my 20" barrel 870 (no vent rib, factory bead is on a small "platform/ramp"). What is involved in removing/replacing this? I tried to remove the bead thinking it was threaded, but it didnt move so now Im not so sure? Again, thank you for you reply.
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    mrs102mrs102 Member Posts: 1,166 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The pin holding the firing pin has a little taper and it is tight. (You already know that) Use a nylon block under the bolt (or piece of woood with a hole in it) and drift the pin, bottom of bolt to top, until it falls out. Your punch will retain the firing pin and spring so you can then let them out with some control. Use the punch to hold the firing pin in place when you start the retaining pin back into the bolt

    The shell latches can be slid out from their staking by using a punch against the flat end and tapping at them with a hammer/mallet. Slide the new one(s) back in the slot and hold them in place with the trigger group pins. Use a sharp prick punch and restake them at the old staking marks. The angle you have to work at is a little tough but it will work and save the price of the staking tool.
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    cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks mrs102-

    Just to make sure I understand you, as the bolt sits in the receiver, I want to drift the pin from the bottom out through the top? If this is the case therein lies my problem, I was under the impression it drifts the reverse of this. Im not questioning you just making sure I understand correctly.
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    mrs102mrs102 Member Posts: 1,166 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Round on the top, flat on the bottom. The pin tapers towards the bottom. I think you should be able to see the taper in the bottom hole. Some I had to hit so hard it flattened the bottom of the pin some but they came out.... After you ease the firing pin and spring out you'll see there is a cutout on it to accomodate the retaining pin and still allow it sufficient travel to hit home. Be sure to get it lined up properly with your punch on reassembly and to get the retaining pin restarted.
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    cwinncwinn Member Posts: 1,223 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Got it. Thank you very much.
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