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1911 Slide Cracking

formerlywrongformerlywrong Member Posts: 139 ✭✭✭
edited September 2007 in Ask the Experts
I'm new, and suppose it's not a new question, but.........
How common does one find a 1911 slide cracked, on the side(s), adjacent to the area where rearward movement of the slide is stopped by contact with the frame?

Years ago, my old 1911 developed cracks, both sides, which got worse with use, until the slide would no longer move freely.

Recently, I found some urethane bumpers to insert on the spring support thingy, which cushion the shock between slide and frame.

1) Is cracking common?
2) If impacting hard, stiffer spring would help, how to check for degree of impact?
3) Think the rubber bumpers are very effective?
4) Anyone ever repair a cracked slide?

Thanks for input! One of those imponderable things I've always wondered about, but could find no answer for.

Comments

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    bobskibobski Member Posts: 17,868 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    my colt slide cracked in the lock back notch.
    Retired Naval Aviation
    Former Member U.S. Navy Shooting Team
    Former NSSA All American
    Navy Distinguished Pistol Shot
    MO, CT, VA.
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    formerlywrongformerlywrong Member Posts: 139 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by perry shooter
    Slides crack from one reason The load is TOO HOT for the recoil spring. You need to tune your spring to the load . This can be done By getting a spring kit from Brownells . Pick the load you want to shoot and load one shell in the magazine shoot this shell and if the slide stays back "LOCKED OPEN" install one step heavier spring Repeat test, when the spring is heavier then needed for your load the slide will not lock back because the slide did not fully cycle in recoil .Now go back one step to the last spring that worked. You have just tuned your pistol to you shooting it with your load. Other shooters with your pistol and your load may need a different spring it will depend on how hard you hold the pistol when shooting. AVOID recoil BUFFERS they will come apart and jam up a gun and will cause feed problems because they don't allow the slide to fully cycle. "PRAISE THE HARD-BALL GUN" your mileage may vary.


    Good advice, I would say! But, as an aside, if my 1911 were strictly to be relied upon for self defense, I would rather it not be fine tuned so closely that the one possible chance out of thousands might result in failure to chamber, or even lock open. This could happen due to tolerance in many variables of the ammo.
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    formerlywrongformerlywrong Member Posts: 139 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by givette
    Simple. Go back two steps. (Re. Perry Shooter's advice). Read into his posting....he's trying to show you how to avoid "slide-slamming". Big no-no. How do you think your first slide wound up cracked?

    Your call. Joe

    EDIT: to Karl..sorry, edited out (before you replied, by the way). I had you confused with someone else. Joe



    My call: I would rather have my carry piece "slam" some than experience a fail to feed/eject the one time my life was on the line.
    The frigging slide is not going to break in half suddenly, leaving me with no self-defense. Unless of course you can tell the future by guaranteeing about 10,000 rounds in succession successfully after finding the spring which prevents slide/frame contact.

    Now, before this goes "out the window", I'm not interested in riling you, only pointing out my preference on the most important piece I have. If I'm wrong, which I was before, I'm not convincable on this issue.

    I'm not usually this stubborn; when I believe, I believe.
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    tobefreetobefree Member Posts: 7,401
    edited November -1
    Well I don't want to tell you what or what not to do... But I've read a thousand or more of Perry Shooter's post's and and he is one of a handful of posters here that actually know what they are talking about... Or actually trully qaulify for the forum's title role! As I see it you are packing the wrong gun for your needs unless you are will to live with the cracks (this I don't advise).
    Personally as I see it from where you sit you have 3 options
    you can properly tune your weapon
    you could try a "Machined Steel" slide
    you can live with the cracks...which like I said I don't advise....

    You give me the impression that you are a guy that is overly paranoid about being caught with a non-functioning weapon during a gunfight....
    Well I hope to God I'm never in one ( a Gunfight), but if I am I hope to God I have a wheel gun on me and not one of my 1911's. Why, well I tell you why...I ain't going to be the participant that already has his weapon pulled ... So I have to pull mine and get off that all important 1st shot before he does ( a tie is alright if you want a grave marker that says "He got the guy that killed him" And especially important to us paranoid people is the fact if that first rd fails ...all we have to do pull the trigger again and at least we got our tie!!
    Oh yea,,,, if I were you I'd consider changing my moniker to STILL WRONG!!!!
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    gotstolefromgotstolefrom Member Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Formerly,

    Just 'Head Butt' the SOB, he will surely be dead before he hits the ground.
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    agman1999agman1999 Member Posts: 981 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you had shot a lot of rounds before this happened, it may not have been that you had the wrong recoil spring for your load, but that your recoil spring was worn out.

    With that said, buffers seem to be a bad deal. The 1911 wasn't designed for them, and shouldn't need them it's properly maintained.
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    COLTCOLT Member Posts: 12,637 ******
    edited November -1
    ...If it is a Colt, call 'em send it back, and they will take care of you...[;)]

    ani-texas-flag.gif
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    v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Don't repair a cracked slide.
    Don't shoot a cracked slide. You could get an eyefull of steel.
    Get a forged, not a cast or "made from bar stock" slide.
    Use the proper slide spring rating for the loads you're using.
    A buffer will shorten your slide stroke and may affect reliable feeding with weak magazine springs.
    The idea is good but prove it out at the range before carrying it.
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    bobskibobski Member Posts: 17,868 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    a worn spring is the result of design failure, which seems to have lead to another failure....a crack.
    whenever a part is not within spec, its defective. defective parts need to be changed. new ones that are within spec will allow the gun to operate properly.
    a lot of things must work in order for a gun to fire. there are 100's of little parts that all must work everytime. if youre going to worry about if all those 100 parts are going to work when you need them, youll worry yourself to death.
    just replace the bad parts, shoot proper loads with proven parts fitted properly and have at it.
    its that simple. im with perry on this one.
    and btw...anyone who has shot at camp perry for over 35 years ranks as a 45 expert in my opinion. no, he's a high master. high master is higher than expert.[;)]
    Retired Naval Aviation
    Former Member U.S. Navy Shooting Team
    Former NSSA All American
    Navy Distinguished Pistol Shot
    MO, CT, VA.
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    bobskibobski Member Posts: 17,868 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    and he doesnt lie.[;)][:X]
    Retired Naval Aviation
    Former Member U.S. Navy Shooting Team
    Former NSSA All American
    Navy Distinguished Pistol Shot
    MO, CT, VA.
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    iceracerxiceracerx Member Posts: 8,860 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    PERRYSHOOTER won't toot his own horn, so I will.

    He earned the Distinguished Pistol Shooter Badge in 1983

    He's forgotten more about 1911's then most if us "mere mortals" will ever know (bobski excluded).

    You've earned "Distinguished" also, didn't you Bob?
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