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Fixing a buggered up screw head

Maxx424Maxx424 Member Posts: 719 ✭✭✭✭
edited December 2008 in Ask the Experts
Over on the general forum there was some discussion on being able to repair a screw head. Can someone tell me the secret?

Comments

  • Old-ColtsOld-Colts Member Posts: 22,697 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you'll take another look at that thread it was pretty much answered after you posted.

    If you can't feel the music; it's only pink noise!

  • GuvamintCheeseGuvamintCheese Member Posts: 38,932
    edited November -1
    I copied my reply for you.

    I use sandpaper first, medium grit and you can either hold the screw with your thumb and forefinger or put it in a drill. sand all the bluing off and this should remove alot of the top scaring. Then fold the sand paper in half and sand in between the slots. finally do the top of the screw with a fine grit (polishing). Then I either use G96 blue paste or heat it up with a torch and dip it in used oil. NEW SCREW!

    Here, I did it to show how.

    marred screw
    IMG_1196.jpg

    medium sanding of top
    IMG_1197.jpg

    Sand slot sides
    IMG_1198.jpg

    fine polish
    IMG_1202.jpg

    blue
    IMG_1204.jpg

    put some oil on it.
    IMG_1206.jpg
  • kimikimi Member Posts: 44,719 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thank you. That's outstanding!
    What's next?
  • Maxx424Maxx424 Member Posts: 719 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
  • sockssocks Member Posts: 189 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    EXCELLENT job, Cartod. Very neat.
  • Old-ColtsOld-Colts Member Posts: 22,697 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I was essentially taught to do the same thing as cartod has mentioned here in this thread. However, I always secure the screw's threads with the head exposed in a drill or Dremel tool that has been secured to a bench. This is done to make sure the screw is stabilized and doesn't wobble as it turns at a high rate of speed so that when you use the file to de-burr the screw head it is easier to maintain the original contour of the head and not have any irregularities. I usually use Crocus Cloth to finish it off, but very fine sandpaper works also. Then finishing depends on the color you want to achieve or match.

    If you can't feel the music; it's only pink noise!

  • 511pe511pe Member Posts: 258 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    How I do it is to hold the screw with my fingers as I tap down on the malformed head with a smooth face small ball pean hammer. This saves more metal and smooths down dings conserving metal producing sharp crisp edges. The over pean is dressed down by black tape covered hand drill tines snuggly holding the screw by the thread and slow speed (high speed will cause the hand drills bearing run out to appear on the screw head) while moving an abrasive stone or cloth to reproduce a uniform conture. Pay attention to the high & low spots, when the micro finish is pleasing touch up blue it. Remember sharp crisp edges and uniform conture mark new quality. Use only machined non-wedged screw driver bits to tighten. The other fore mentioned is a common pratice. Sometimes it takes a jewelers approach. I already know this reply is going to be criticized.
  • tsr1965tsr1965 Member Posts: 8,682 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    That was an awesome demonstration cartod. That is the proper way to fix one without a doubt with one exception...going to Brownells and getting a new one, or if you are going to dabble in this, get a kit that contains many different types, sizes and lengths.

    Best
  • nononsensenononsense Member Posts: 10,928 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There are a dozen different methods used to fix screw slots and screw heads. Some methods are better than others but it boils down to how good a job do you want or need.

    Today, there is the pervasive attitude of throwing damaged parts away and just buying a new one to replace the old one. The greatest drawback to throwing screws away comes out of the restoration faction of gunsmithing. Original parts can be hard if not impossible to find so repairing a screw is a necessity in order to preserve the originality and value of the firearm.

    This is an example of a boogered screw head for which there is no excuse:

    screwdamage2jpgpd2.png

    I learned from an old old school gentleman who couldn't throw anything away. But he insisted that parts be repaired as opposed to buying new. Screws being worked on were always controlled in some way, whether in a padded vise, drill chuck or lathe chuck. He taught me to grind and polish a radius on the outside edge of small punch to get rid of the sharp edge. These types of punches were used to push the raised metal back into position so the shape of the head and width of the slot could be preserved. Then it was a matter of using a slot file to clean up the edges of the slot in the head. After this, we usually chucked the screw up in a drill press or lathe to finish the dressing and finishing.

    The primary point to all of this is to use the correct screwdriver when working on anything and most importantly, firearms.

    Best.
  • iceracerxiceracerx Member Posts: 8,860 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by nononsense


    The primary point to all of this is to use the correct screwdriver when working on anything and most importantly, firearms.



    Use THE correct Screwdriver! Can you make that a "sticky"?
  • rhmc24rhmc24 Member Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    In a case like the picture nononsense shows above, I take punch or very small hammer and carefully tap or beat the raised parts back into place - then finish it off as described.

    If you are involved with a lot of fine filing, a set of swiss files is a good investment and not a lot of money today.

    To hold small stuff I have a three jaw chuck (from a cheap egg beater drill) mounted on bolt in the end of a handle. You can hold your screw by hand or grip the chuck in your vise.
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