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Annealing !!
mond
Member Posts: 6,458
One for the engineers -
Does any one go thru this process, if so what temp do you aneal to, for how long ?
I have re-loaded some brass 10x & although all looks well, should i anneal to stop the work hardening process ?
Was just going to pop the Brass into the oven to warm thru , for an hour or so.
Thanks
Does any one go thru this process, if so what temp do you aneal to, for how long ?
I have re-loaded some brass 10x & although all looks well, should i anneal to stop the work hardening process ?
Was just going to pop the Brass into the oven to warm thru , for an hour or so.
Thanks
Comments
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
Only anneal the neck and shoulder. You can buy a chemical called Tempilac (sp) that you paint on the case, and it melts at the correct temp. After a while, you will be able to count off the seconds and know when it is done.
It is vital that your cases are as clean as possible before you anneal them.
You can get Tempil "Temp-sticks" at a plumbing supply store. The trick is to uniformly anneal the case neck. This will require some sort of rotation device (slow turning drill motor and a case holder) and a propane torch. You want to prevent the case body (and head) from exceeding 495 degrees F (257 deg C) because this is the point where grain structure changes occur.
PS - if you heat the entire case at 600 deg F for an hour it will be ruined. This is why the oven is not a good idea.
An article online over annealing cases. I personally don't see the point. Its just another process that really just costs time that I don't believe is worth the price of the case.
http://www.gun-tests.com/performance/jun96cases.html
An article online over annealing cases. I personally don't see the point. Its just another process that really just costs time that I don't believe is worth the price of the case.
The 1000yd IBS world record was set by cases annealed every firing.
Annealing saves brass that might cost $2/each and would have otherwise been thrown away. When you have 6+hrs in prepping 1 lot of brass for competition, you try to get every last firing out of it. I do it for consistency, which is worth more than money when you hear "ready on the left,.....ready on the right,...shooters insert your bolts,......commence fire"[8D]
Annealing returns the "springback" to the case necks, which uniforms neck tension and therefore reduces Extreme Spread. That translates to less vertical dispersion on target and less variance in wind drift values. It's all about group and score, money isn't an issue.
I made this machine with a fart fan motor and a rheostat. The case holders I had made at the machine shop for specific casehead dimensions.
I've been annealing every two firings for a while. Brass life is extended noticeably and accuracy is definitely improved. Scientific my method is not, working for me, it is!
I saw plans somewhere for a rotating case annealer made from a rotisserie motor. I just happen to have one spare here and will build it soon, making my life easier.
quote:Originally posted by leeblackman
http://www.gun-tests.com/performance/jun96cases.html
An article online over annealing cases. I personally don't see the point. Its just another process that really just costs time that I don't believe is worth the price of the case.
The 1000yd IBS world record was set by cases annealed every firing.
Annealing saves brass that might cost $2/each and would have otherwise been thrown away. When you have 6+hrs in prepping 1 lot of brass for competition, you try to get every last firing out of it. I do it for consistency, which is worth more than money when you hear "ready on the left,.....ready on the right,...shooters insert your bolts,......commence fire"[8D]
Annealing returns the "springback" to the case necks, which uniforms neck tension and therefore reduces Extreme Spread. That translates to less vertical dispersion on target and less variance in wind drift values. It's all about group and score, money isn't an issue.
I made this machine with a fart fan motor and a rheostat. The case holders I had made at the machine shop for specific casehead dimensions.
NICE!
What I like about the case holders you made is they would soak up heat that might soften the base of the case more than desired. We don't need soft case bases blowing primers out.
I rarely let any of my cases go more than 3 times before I'll do it again...
A very light blue colored ring at about 1/4 inch below the neck shoulder junction tells me I'm where I want to be heat wise, and I want to do it as quick as possible, usually a count of 8 will get me there. A lot of that will depend on the torch your using.....
Happy new year [:)]