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decapping 308 (762-51)

flbadgerflbadger Member Posts: 2 ✭✭
edited July 2006 in Ask the Experts
Wondering why all of sudden my (Lee) decapper won't decap anything anymore - I know if I force it the pin will break. -
This Die from Lee apparently will not allow you to change pin.
_ any ideas ??
-
Flbadger
in Floor-Dee-Daa

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    perry shooterperry shooter Member Posts: 17,390
    edited November -1
    Hello if this is military ammo the primer is most likely CRIMPED IN If and when you deprime the case you will either need to ream the primer pocket or swage it with a swage die. I may be mistaken but I think LEE will replace any broken decapping pin that breaks .
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    CubsloverCubslover Member Posts: 18,601 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I know the newer Lee deprimer dies have a mechanism that will keep you from breaking the pin. I've noticed if you apply too much pressure it will pop out, and needs reset.
    Half of the lives they tell about me aren't true.
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    dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,162 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Much of the inexpensive FMJ 308 ammo is nonreloadable. I bought alot of Australian 308 and could not reload it - two flash holes, not one.
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    CubsloverCubslover Member Posts: 18,601 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by dfletcher
    Much of the inexpensive FMJ 308 ammo is nonreloadable. I bought alot of Australian 308 and could not reload it - two flash holes, not one.


    +1, some may be boxer primed, some berdan primed.
    Half of the lives they tell about me aren't true.
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    v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Unless it's US manufacture, inspect all brass for one or two holes
    before attempting to deprime. Also, if primers are crimped and sealed,
    pushing primers out will be a little more difficult.
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    awindsawinds Member Posts: 1,139 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I discard all mil and foreign brass. The trouble just isn't worth
    the few pennies saved.
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    buddybbuddyb Member Posts: 5,273 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I use a Lee manual decapper for military brass.You set the case in a base,and use a small hammer and tap the primer out with a decaping pin.I use a Lee chamfering tool to cut the primer crimp out.Both tools together cost less than 10 bucks.
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    dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,162 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you do have crimped military brass that is otherwise good & can be reloaded, the Dillon primer pocket swager is absolutely the best & easiest way to remove the crimp. Nothing else comes even close. I had about 500 30-06 cases ($25.00) & knocked them out in no time flat.
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    v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Dont waste money on a RCBS primer pocket swager. It doesnt reform the swaged area enough to eliminate the crimp and primers often hang up.
    Cutting the crimp worked better for me than the RCBS tool.
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    IconoclastIconoclast Member Posts: 10,515 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Welcome aboard, flbadger!

    If you are breaking the decapping pins routinely, I'd bet a large sum of money the brass is from a foreign source and the primers Berdan. I've broken more than a few over the years for various reasons (mostly operator error!), but the one sure way to break them is on Berdan-primed brass. It *is* possible to remove the Berdan primer with hydrolic / hydraulic action or by prying them out with a special tool, but it is not worth the effort on anything common like 7.62x51. As someone else suggested - shine a strong line down the case and if the flash hole(s) are offset from center, you have Berdan-primed brass. You can use this to make seating dummies if you have such a need; otherwise its highest & best use is selling to scrap metal dealers.
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