Removing stuck screws and bolts

XXCross

I post this here only because the subject come up from time to time.
(so take it for whatever you think it's worth..or not)



Penetrating Oils



"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The mag reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut:

No Oil used ........516 foot pounds

WD-40 ....... ....238 foot pounds

PB Blaster .........214 foot pounds

Liquid Wrench ........127 foot pounds

Kano Kroil .........106 foot pounds

ATF/Acetone mix........ 53 foot pounds



The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.

rufe-snow

All the "GOOD" ones, are foul and toxic.

Wear eye and respiratory protective gear, when using. Do it outside if possible. If you have to use them inside, make sure you have proper ventilation.

perry shooter

OK I have tried the home brew and I will admit it does work VERY well on some items. But it also evaporates the ACETONE from the mix very quickly . The big thing I like about KROIL you can wrap the item in a paper towel and then apply the kroil to wet the paper towel and it will stay wet and keep working for many hours if not days I really like KROIL on Fire-arms and leave wet for 48 hours then burlap scrub to remove all loosen rust Not saying home brew is not as good I just think both have their place and advantages

charliemeyer007

Almost every screw/bolt needs antiseize compound or Loctite.

added http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=Seafoam Deep Creep&adid=22222222220213337956&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=b&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=32674072367&wl4=&veh=sem

autozone

spirits

Very helpful information. It also helps to give the head of the bolt/screw a few good whacks to initially loosen things up a bit and probably during and after the soaking process. I agree with using the anti-seize on all the threads for the bolt/screw and its hole because you can tighten bolts/screws with more torque and still unscrew them later.

XXCross

On the occasions where I have used this ATF/Acetone mixture, it has always been on parts that have VERY fine threads. (0-80's, 00-100's etc)
These threads are subject to galling and will withstand very little
abuse of the thread. The parts are generally small and usually get
placed in a container over night that comes with a sealed lid. (no evaporation issues) FYI, lacquer thinner may be substituted for the acetone..works almost as well) It's not for every job, but it does work.

jonk

I wish that someone would do this experiment with Seafoam Deep creep. I find it beats up Kroil 10 times out of 10, is in a nice spray can, plus is great on air intakes in my boat.

perry shooter

Hello Jonk never knew such a thing existed where can you find it Thanks Perry Shooter

peddler

soaked a revolver in lacquer thinner one time and it took most of the blueing off, I don't use any lacquer thinner on any guns anymore.

riley p

Wow! Useful information backed by documented numbers. If no one else has said it, THANK YOU!!

Ask the "experts" has all too often degenerated to a vehicle for the snarky and pointlessly unkind. A post offering valid information (that we can all use)is a refreshing uplift.

Thank you.