Springfield vs. Kimber

gravedigger

I'm looking to get a compact 3" 1911 for CCW. I've narrowed it down to a Springfield Micro Compact, Springfield Mil-Spec 3" or Kimber Ultra Carry. I've handled and like all 3. I already have a Kimber Custom and I am very pleased with it. Therefore I am kind of prejudiced toward the Kimber. If it was the same money, I'd go with Kimber, but I found a Springfield Micro for about $250 less. Please help.

-Marcus

buckdeer

i doubt you could go wrong with either

Delta514

BUCKDEER Is telling it right. The Limited Series Para-Ord. is also a very good piece, well worth consideration. It's a Shame; But the Para-Ord. Limited is a very accurate Gun. [;)]

The reason I say: "It's a Shame" = They casterated the Canooks and now they are coming for ours. [8]

Ronnie G. Perkins

punchie

I'm not a big fan of the real short grip frame but for the amount of $ between them I would go with the Sprinfield. Very few are ever dissatisfied with the Kimber and if you have the extra $ go for it. Have you considered the Colt Defender?

AN ARMED SOCIETY IS A POLITE SOCIETY

Pearyw

I the Kimber is one of the first Ultra Carry pistols, I would go for it. If it is the II series with their new safety system, I would buy the Springfield. I own a Kimber Custom Target and a CDP-Pro, but since that added their new safety system I have taken Kimbers off my buy list.

James Lyle

I'd get a used Spld, $450 or so, "fully loaded", from a private party, and I'd dump the GM in favor of an alloy framed, compact 9mm, in order to take advantage of the cheap practice ammo in that caliber.

mballai

Short-barreled 1911s come only in two models: those that work and those that do not. It's very difficult to make a real reliable one. I realize that's a cold shower but you need to either stick with a Commander size or be willing to either trade in a dog or have a gunsmith do a reliability job if whatever you buy doesn't pass muster. The 1911 doesn't scale down well. You'd probably do better with a small Glock or Sig in 45.

Three Precious Metals: Gold, silver and lead

kimberkid

quote:Originally posted by Pearyw
since that added their new safety system I have taken Kimbers off my buy list. Ditto ... andquote:Originally posted by punchie
Have you considered the Colt Defender? ... Ditto

===========================
Chance favors the prepared mind
kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com

gravedigger

Kimberkid,

I've hear lots of people bash the Kimber "II" models, but never heard the reason. What is the problem the new safety system creates?

-Marcus


P.S.: I hope that didn't sound like I was being an *, because that wasn't, my intention. I respect all of your opinions and have received sound advice many times. I rarely make a purchase without consulting the experts first.

***When the Second Amendment falls, the First will be sure to follow.***

Delta514

Actually the Compacts are pretty consistent. The Barrels do not run in Bushings (except for Colt)and all have a Snobble Barrel which seats to the slide. "Star" Pioneered this method 20 years ago, and were right. I did have some problems with the Charles Daly Compacts = The Guns were too tight out of the box, a heavier Recoil Spring will make it go ahead and lock up on a round. I found the Charles Daly to be accurate and dependable enough to carry (which I did for about 6 months) (Owning a Gun Shop gives one many options), I ended up with a "Para-Ord, Limited Stainless P-12" Commander size. I see no need for changing to any other on the market today, I have shot about all except Wilson Combat, (There is only so much you can do with a 1911, and most of that, you can do yourself) If the Barrel is of good quality and Latching into the upper Slide Lugs, the Bushing is tight, (this can be kept that way by turning the barrel about a 1/2 inch back from the end .020 or more, so the barrel doesn't ride the Bushing while recoiling. (Accuracy comes from when the Gun is in Battery, when it fires, its to late to worry about it) Polishing the 'ways' will help the smoothness of the slide but do little for accuracy. The trigger can be taken out and easily polished, adjustible triggers - Only adjusts the travel, the pull comes from the Hammer spring. Polishing all of the parts and getting the sharp edge from the sear will make the trigger Crisp, the 3 way spring in the grip frame which runs behind the trigger and under the back strap is the key to Trigger weight of Pull. Anything under 2.5 crisp is getting a little too hairy. When the Bushing eventuall become a little lose on the barrel, flash the inside of it with brass and have a better than original Bushing. Releaving, Lowering and Dishing the ejection Port is not a bad idea - but intails shop work or extensive hand work. Anything else is purely Personal Preference. Don't forget to have various weight Recoil Springs handy for varying loads. A Solid or 2 Piece Guide rod is handy for adding a neopreme Buffer for shock or occasional Hot Loads, but makes the Pistol a little more difficult to break down. [;)]

Ronnie G. Perkins

kimberkid

I'm not bashing, I just don't want anything to do with their Kalifornia approved "II" models ... I believe in the K.I.S.S. principal, thats one of the best features of the 1911 design ... then they go muck it up adding more parts to wear, break, loose, or whatever ... I dont live in Kalifornia, and wont support them in their "new design" ... no bashing, they'er just off my list.

===========================
Chance favors the prepared mind
kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com