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Stock refinishing

jokenjoken Member Posts: 201 ✭✭✭
edited October 2007 in Ask the Experts
Any ideas on getting oil out of an older gun stock. I was refinishing a Rem. 1100 and when I stripped the stock,oil keeps bleeding out near the receiver end. I guess the guy that owned it before soaked it in oil!!!!! What about denatured alcohol??? HELP!!!!!

Comments

  • jokenjoken Member Posts: 201 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a savage 67F in 12 gauge and I want to refinish the stock but I don't know for sure how to take the stock off and I don't want to tear into it and have piece flying all over any help would be great thanks[:p]
  • jokenjoken Member Posts: 201 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am going to refinish a stock that is checkered. How do I keep from getting too much finish (tru-oil) in the checkered areas or am I concerned when I shouldn't be? Thanks, Ken inOregon
  • jokenjoken Member Posts: 201 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    last stock i refinished was a winchester lever action and i just used oil and a wax finish. turned out great, this rifle i want more of a shine to it. about the only products i know are varnish, spar varnish orpolyutherane (don't think i spelled that right) what do other gb members think
  • jokenjoken Member Posts: 201 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I saw a post on here that made me remember this question. I have a Rem 1187 "Special Purpose" with the parkerized finish. IMO it's not all that pretty a gun, especially because the wood finish is pretty worn. I've thought about refinishing the wood. I'm pretty handy with wood, but never done a stock. I've been told if I sand off the finish I wont be happy with what's underneath because it is a "fake grain finish" and the wood itself has no grain. It's not a walnut stock. Any truth to this? How do you get around it? This is a gun I could experiment with, but I'd like it to at least come out looking better than it started.
  • cody45cody45 Member Posts: 570 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I usually do the checkering areas after rubbing the smooth parts to the desired "shine". The checkering is done sparainly with a tooth brush to avoid excess build up. Also you can ask the tech crew at Brownells for advice on this subject. They are always happy to help.
  • jbw1776jbw1776 Member Posts: 3,056
    edited November -1
    I use the blue painters masking tape and tape off the checkering, using an Exacto-Knife to cut it out. When I have the stock where I want it I work on the checkering. You obviously don't want much, if any, finish in them (sealer applied before taping up, just like the rest of the stock).

    Must have been out of the blue tape when I did this one, but you get the idea.

    Browningbar007.jpg

    browningbar017.jpg

    Ben
  • jokenjoken Member Posts: 201 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks gentlemen. I appreciate the advise. Ken
  • Colt SuperColt Super Member Posts: 31,007
    edited November -1
    joken - You've got mail.

    Doug
  • DokeyDokey Member Posts: 936 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    JBW1776 has hit the nail right on the head. I apply the Tru Oil with my fingers, applying as many coats as needed, sanding between each coat with 240 or 360 paper, then on the final coats with xxxx steel wool, and when I'm ready to apply the last couple of coats I remove the masking tape and have a tooth brush ready to spread the oil in the checkering. When applying the final coats do so sparingly and quickly with 2 fingers. The finish comes out like glass
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