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357 Sig Reloading
dfletcher
Member Posts: 8,162 ✭✭✭
I just bought an HK P2000sk in 40 S & W and added a 357 Sig caliber barrel, found it on Brownells for an OK price. Probably will use it in 40 S & W mostly, but I'd like to use the Sig & will reload for it. I keep reading/hearing that reloading for the 357 Sig is a bit of a pain and have a few questions, looking for practical advice.
I see mostly 3 die sets (Lee, Hornady, Redding) for reloading, but RCBS does a 2 die set. Although bottle necked I presume the method is resize/decap, expand & seat/crimp using 1 die per - how does this happen with the RCBS 2 die set? Or, am I supposed to chamfer the inside neck like a bottle necked rifle when using the RCBS?
I reload for the 10mm, I see that some resize the Sig case body with a carbide, then neck size with the 357 Sig "plain steel" sizer - worth it to avoid case lubing?
Which die set offers the easiest crimping? I presume a good roll crimp is best? Are cannalure bullets a must have, I don't see very many offered in .355 diamater? Any hard cast lead that works well with the Sig's higher FPS?
Any practical advice appreciated.
I see mostly 3 die sets (Lee, Hornady, Redding) for reloading, but RCBS does a 2 die set. Although bottle necked I presume the method is resize/decap, expand & seat/crimp using 1 die per - how does this happen with the RCBS 2 die set? Or, am I supposed to chamfer the inside neck like a bottle necked rifle when using the RCBS?
I reload for the 10mm, I see that some resize the Sig case body with a carbide, then neck size with the 357 Sig "plain steel" sizer - worth it to avoid case lubing?
Which die set offers the easiest crimping? I presume a good roll crimp is best? Are cannalure bullets a must have, I don't see very many offered in .355 diamater? Any hard cast lead that works well with the Sig's higher FPS?
Any practical advice appreciated.
Comments
The trick of first using a 40 S & W carbide die. Than full length resizing, with a 357 Sig sizing die works. I've used this on both 7.62 X 25 and .357 SIG. It saves hassling with lubing the bottle neck cases.
I believe I used Lee dies when reloading, 357 SIG. Because the short barrel of the G 27. I soon came to the realization, that I was wasting my time. 200 FPS over regular 9mm, was stretching it. Needed a longer barrel. To utilized slow burning powder, to get additional velocity from the 357 reloads.
EDIT #1,
It's been a number of years since I loaded 357 Sig. But I think I used one of the Lee Factory Crimp Dies, to make sure the jacketed bullets were held securely.
Didn't need any lube with the full length sizing die, after sizing with a carbide 40 S & W die.
Lead bullets might be problematical at high velocities? Rainier TMJ bullets. Supposedly have a higher tolerance for hot loads than the Berries.
EDIT: The use of the .40 carbide die before any other operation would leave the body sized (this would be the system Rufe uses, the way I do it the carbide is the last step so I lube and size with the 2-die set). Two of my three barrels are BarSto Precisions and they headspace like a bottleneck rifle on a datum line on the shoulder, which I like better than the Sig version which headspaces on the case mouth - why have a bottleneck if you don't take full advantage of it? You are correct that I chamfer the case mouth and use friction fit for seating. For practice loads I have been using Berry's 124gr. RN thick plate bullets and as long as I hold the velocity under 1400 there is no problem.
The case neck is very short. I've had my best results by NOT belling the case mouth or crimping. Instead, after sizing, I put a slight chamfer on the case mouth and use neck tension to hold the bullet in place. I've found that AA#9 works best for most bullet weights but if you want to load light bullets, like the 90 gr XTP's I loaded for varmint rounds, you will need to use a faster powder like Bullseye for a complete powder burn.
In my experience, this cartridge requires a bonded bullet such as XTP, Gold Dot, etc for deep penetration. The regular jacketed bullets I've tried such as Montana Gold, Sierra, Zero and others tend to fragment or otherwise come apart upon impact.
I have been reloading for the .357 Sig since '97. I use a two die RCBS set and a .40 S&W carbide sizing die. My system is slightly different from R-S's, but probably does the same thing. This is a fairly high pressure round so there is a degree of case swelling. I de-cap as a separate step and then tumble clean the brass. After cleaning I lube and size in the .357 die. I camfer the case mouths and load the rounds. My final step is to run all the rounds into the .40 carbide die (after removing the case lube) to remove any swelling caused either by the firing or the loading pressures. I'm a fan of the "plunk" test for this cartridge - I remove the Sig barrel from my P-239 and drop each round into the chamber, if it stops with a "plunk" and the case head is flush with the back edge of the barrel hood the round will function.
I reload for the 30 Luger so bottleneck pistol rounds aren't foreign to me. But just to clarify, using the RCBS you do not expand the case mouth but instead inside chamfer, just like a bottlenecked rifle cartridge, yes?
In one order or another, you use a 40 carbide sizer die, a 357 Sig steel sizer die with lube and the seater, correct?
I read RCBS reviews that complain about the shoulder not being set back - any issues?
I'm wondering if the below might work out using the RCBS 2 die set -
Case size/deprime using the 40/10mm carbide, no lube of course. Neck size using the Sig 357 steel, no lube required because the body is already done. Then, because the case necks are inside chamfered, go directly to seating the bullet.
If I do the above am I limited to jacketed, or will I have to do a bit of case mouth expanding to use lead? I have a Lee universal case mouth expander that would work fine, don't plan on using much lead.
Edit: Regarding crimp or friction fit, do RCBS dies have the capability to taper or roll? Any issues with friction fit? I'd just as soon do a slight taper or the taper so long as everything holds tight, and I presume a roll crimp requires a cannalure which limits bullet choice. I like the Berrys too - imagine, having to work to keep a pistol cartridge "under 1400 fps" -[:)]
Given the short case neck of this cartridge, I am reluctant to bell or expand the case mouth. I rely upon a chamfer and neck retention (no crimp) and have never had any setback issues.
I've only used jacketed and plated bullets in this cartridge due to the velocities. I have recently had some excellent results with the Berry Hybrid Hollow Points in 9MM and I plan to load some in .357 Sig as well. The Sig's velocity may exceed the manufacturer's suggested max but it should be OK. The Rainier and Extreme brand plated bullets have also worked well for me.
I've heard horror stories about how difficult it is to reload 357 SIG and I say most is BS and from the responses here, I am not alone. Have used both cast and plated bullets as well.
I think this will be mostly a breeze and appreciate all the help from those who offered -