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Luger

steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
edited September 2002 in Ask the Experts
Have a German Luger with the DWM on the toggel. The S/N is 77xx and the only stamps on are "Made in Germany" and the proof mark. I need more information on the gun please. Blue book lists it as being made in 1900. The cal. is .30. On the front of sight is a "D". There is a loop mark below the S/N on the front of the fram. The number 14 is on the rear of the gun just below the rear sight. This is all that I can find on the gun. Should I be looking for more marks and is there a sight some place for just Lugers?

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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I acquired a German Luger S/42 with all matching serial numbers. But some _____ had the gun chromed and put pearl grips on it. Any ideas on value and what to do with it to restore it ???
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Was there a Italian manufacturer of lugers in and around 1944?
    I have a chance to get a luger that I'm told was made 1944 by some Italian mfg I have not seen it yet and was locking for info before wasting time.
    Thanks for any help. ~ Gary
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    No real questions, just a mention that today is the anniversary of Georg Luger's birthday. FYI: Luger P08 pistol inventor"Fast is good, but accuracy is everything.."Wyatt Warp
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I recently acquired a Luger DWM. Most of the serial numbers,the proof markings and the DWM logo have white in the letering. What is this? Is it desireable to have this white? Who put it there? any help appreciated.
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a Luger 7.65 marked DWM 98% with holster. The safety release is marked in english SAFE. Also a holster and it does not have a clip holder. Serial 901xx all parts with matching numbers. This gun has been in my family about 60 years and has only been test fired during that time.

    Jim
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've got this Luger. Under the barrel and on the trigger guard, it has the number 23XX. Is this the serial number? If so, can anybody tell me what model this weapon is or what year it was produced? If not, then where can I find the serial number?

    I run with scissors.
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    guy, I have a german luger i would like to find more about. I have the normal military reference book but need more help in ID of the firearm can someone help with it.it is a S/42 date stamped 1938 4"barrel on the right side next to barrel on the flat part of the chamber it is stampedeagle over 83 and eagle over 93 but the next mark looks like crossed flags or some sort of bird. on the front of the trigger gard under the serial numbers there is an scroll L. the finnish on the pistol is blued and the grips are the brown wood.THE MAGAZINE HAS 1280 L and + and eagle. any help on this would be great. I would also like a value if possible blueing and over all is about 50%.Thanks 45
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Need a little help. I just recieved a german luger from some kin folks of mine. It has byf on the toggle and the number 42 between the barrel and the toggle. It has a four diget serial no. 4XXX. Several parts are marked the the no 36. It has 3 eagles on the receiver part of the pistol. One with the no.136, one with 135 and one with the swastika. It has an eagle with the swastika on thebarrel. It has the eagle and the swastika on the toggle. It has Gesichert where the saftey is and what looks like a cursive h under the serial number above the trigger on the outside of the trigger guard. Any info and approx value I would appreciate. Sorry don't have a camera so no pics. The pistol has no rust good rifling and hardly any wear. Thanks Sam
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Please help me to replace P-08 barrel, were i can read about it?
    Thank you

    Andrey
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    How much would it cost to get a Luger that fires well? I want something that i can frame up on my wall and shoot on occasion. is this possible?
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've had a good experience posting this forum since becoming a member this last month. I've learned that a picture is a valuable asset to include with my query.
    I now have another question that I hope will be acceptable to those in this group. I'm seeking information and guidance as to value of this piece:

    http://mywebpages.comcast.net/steve5x5/luger.JPG

    Thanks again,
    steve5x5
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    whats the going rate for a 1916 luger
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Anybody know for sure if 1900 DMC American Eagle Luger made a presintation luger (nickel,with gold plating on the trigger,top of the toggle mag. releise,safty)

    Of course I'm out of my mind. It's dark and scary in there.
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    v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It's a 3 5/8 Luger. The photo shows wear on the sideplate finish and possible heat bluing of the frame. The stock lug is intact. Quality photos of L&R and top would be helpful. Important in the evaluation are markings,matching s/n's of all parts and magazine, condition of bore,finish & grips.
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    Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    A little somthing to watch for on Lugers is on top of the breech block, next to the pop-up extractor, is one or 2 thin (looks like a pencil mark or a thin soot line) lines running back from the breech face and into the extractor cut. These are cracks caused by using over-powered ammo (assuming that a chunk has not already fallen out) and the only cure is a new breech block.
    Just some friendly advise from someone that learned the hard way.
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    steve5x5steve5x5 Member Posts: 25 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    This weapon is not in my possession. I have "limited" resources to add concerning the initial post.
    The breech block has the following:
    S/42
    The s/no.s of the piece differ, which leads me to believe that Mauser Works reconditioned this piece in 1938. Also not in my initial post was the fact that my father-in-law returned from Europe in 1946 with this piece, along with a 1937 R&K Voegel military issue holster:
    http://mywebpages.comcast.net/steve5x5/voegel.JPG
    Also not in my initial post is a bore conversion to 5.29 MM, which I think might be pristine in condition, but not sure if pre-war, or post war:
    http://mywebpages.comcast.net/steve5x5/5.29Luger.JPG
    Also not in my initial post are (5) 9 MM rounds found in the the extra clip in the holster that I beleive may be original German WWII Military Issue, along with a full box of 9 MM Remington rounds that I am guessing date back to the late 40.s., perhaps purchased here in the States, by my FIL.
    I'm guessing this as I (have),in my possession, a Winchester Model 1873 rifle that my Dad gave me that also came with (same Remington box description), (Green & Red), (same in general colors and design of the box) which contains (41) 32-20 rounds for the Winchester.
    As a new member, I'd like to thank "the regulars" that help ignorant persons, such as myself, "get by" in this forum.
    The second amendment to the Constitution of the United States:
    guarantees that no "one" can fool around with the other twenty-six.
    I've taken some liberties here with the quote of one other member in particular.
    steve5x5,
    Thanking all those that kindly reply in advance.
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    v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The 22LR conversion unit is probably worth more than the pistol.
    It looks like an Erma unit.Is it complete and do you have a .22LR magazine for it?
    I would estimate total worth of everything at $700-900
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    4wheeler4wheeler Member Posts: 3,441
    edited November -1
    steve5x5--go to www.p38forum.com hope this is the right website.There some very knowledgeable people that helped me with my p-38 on there,they might can help you.

    Welcome to the forum!!!!!!

    "It was like that when I got here".

    Edited by - 4wheeler on 09/02/2002 21:57:27
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    Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    SP: I learned it can happen by using some mil-surp SMG ammo in mine (french crupo-nickel semi-AP as I remember). The pistol handled it, but when I showed it to Mr Shaddock (I toured his collection when he still lived here in MI) he pointed out the problem, and it's cause to me.
    That same kind of ammo was known for removing the rear sights from P-38's (and in one case I know of the entire slide) so it was some hot stuff. As far as the strength of the Luger, ammo that hot only left minor cracks as far as safety goes (and some additional wear on the toggle hinge pins), but major dammage as far as collectability (and value) goes.

    Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.
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    v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The extractor cut on the Luger is forward of the case web so a real overpressure load will burst a case there and blow out the extractor.
    On the way out(up)the extractor strikes a keeper ledge on each side and may crack or break them off.
    Another weak spot of the Luger in handling hot loads is that the striker is light weight, making blown primers easy. When primers are blown,the firing pin is driven back by gas acting against the large diameter striker body which, acting as a piston strikes the firing pin retainer that is keyed into the breechblock rear with a 1/4 turn arrangement. Either or both the tiny key on the retainer or keyway on the bolt can broken off. Spring retainer guides on postwar Lugers, being investment castings, also break up when struck by the rebounding striker. The later investment cast firing pin tips also break off. Inspection of Lugers should include these areas.
    Lugermakers addressed the problem by cutting several gas bypass grooves in the firing pins. This helps some but didn't cure the problem.
    Because of these weaknesses in the basic pistol, I would be reluctant
    to experiment with barrels longer than standard issue and certainly not the Luger carbine.
    John Browning designed the 1911 and the P35 with small diameter firing pin bodies which are also light but cannot do damage to the pistol as happens in the Luger.
    Early in the century when the US Army did acceptance testing on the Luger, they purposely thinned out primers. Surprisingly, the problem didn't come out. The pistol was rejected on other grounds.
    It's my unconfirmed belief that Berdan primers better resist
    blowout than Boxer primers of the same thickness.
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