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BROWNING BAR MK3
1146markm
Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
Hello, does anyone know if the newer Browning BAR MK3 can be disassembled/broken down like the other BAR models??? My experience with one of the newer bolt action Browning rifles was it could not be disassembled as a family member brought it to me to machine it down and thread the barrel for a suppressor and I could not; "reasonably" disassemble it as I believe for liability reasons...I cannot find info on the MK3 as far as break down and assume it should be a standard for the auto for cleaning purposes at least but wonder how far it is possible or if the barrel can be removed for any type of lathe set up to shorten, crown and thread it..Any help would be appreciated....I have only worked on and modified remington bolt, autos and pumps but leaning towards the new BAR..Thanks
Comments
Browning is still in business ask them
http://www.browning.com/support/contact.html
I had a Belgium Browning in 30-06, very sweet shooting rifle.
I'm not sure what you are asking. I'd bet money that the barrel screws out, and yes you should have a barrel vice and an action wrench specifically for those parts.
Browning is still in business ask them
http://www.browning.com/support/contact.html
I had a Belgium Browning in 30-06, very sweet shooting rifle.
I have had all the Browning bolt actions, including the A-Bolt 3, and the X-Bolt, completely out of the stocks, and completely disassembled. There is no trick to it.
Best
If this question has to be asked, then you should take it to a professional.
I have had all the Browning bolt actions, including the A-Bolt 3, and the X-Bolt, completely out of the stocks, and completely disassembled. There is no trick to it.
Best
It is kinda offensive when someone asks a question and instead of a pertinent answer he gets "if you have to ask take it to a professional"..The question was asked because I don't have one yet, there is a lack of info on it out there, I have no experience with the MK3 yet and also because this is a forum and a source of information which assistance and a friendly reply is welcome and appreciated....When a relative brought me the (pretty) Browning bolt new in the box I could not break the action screw lose with any "reasonable force" such as is like the 68in action screws on the Remington's or Winchesters I have built, rebarreled, rechambered etc...There is a good reason military/law enforcement always used Remington's and I've stuck with them mostly and know them best... Although I know I COULD do it, not ever dealing with the Browning the thought occured maybe in this day and age the new rifles were not meant to be disassembled like a average bolt action as I applied so much force I damn there rounded out the socket head; twisting the wrench as if it were glued in so he did not want it to be attempted..He took it back and I built him a Rem 700 for less then he paid for the box rifle Xbolt...I have read some owners of Xbolts after having removed their barreled actions with a hell of a lot of force discovered only afterwards the action was what appeared to be glued to the stock consequently leaving bedding/stock compound chunks stuck to the barrel/action giving me the thought perhaps for liability issues were not meant to be removed from the stock...Today is a era of lawsuits and liabilities so it's not out of the question to question it...I asked as I stated "because I do not own the MK3 yet" and thought someone on here had experience with the break down of this rifle I could not research it on the net.....I am from Pa. Decided years ago to build my own rifles and we are just implementing the law to allow semi auto for hunting so I never had much experience with the Browning MK3 auto here; the BAR although I don't own one but thanks to the info floating around on the break down seems to be simple procedure and could easily be set up in the lathe to machine it and may very well be like the MK3 I just asked if someone knew about it yet, however thanks for the pertinent info on the Browning bolts regardless.........Again if anyone has experience with the MK3 it is much appreciated..Been trying to reach a tech at Browning for this reasonable info.....quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
If this question has to be asked, then you should take it to a professional.
I have had all the Browning bolt actions, including the A-Bolt 3, and the X-Bolt, completely out of the stocks, and completely disassembled. There is no trick to it.
Best
It is kinda offensive when someone asks a question and instead of a pertinent answer he gets "if you have to ask take it to a professional"..The question was asked because I don't have one yet, there is a lack of info on it out there, I have no experience with the MK3 yet and also because this is a forum and a source of information which assistance and a friendly reply is welcome and appreciated....When a relative brought me the (pretty) Browning bolt new in the box I could not break the action screw lose with any "reasonable force" such as is like the 68in action screws on the Remington's or Winchesters I have built, rebarreled, rechambered etc...There is a good reason military/law enforcement always used Remington's and I've stuck with them mostly and know them best... Although I know I COULD do it, not ever dealing with the Browning the thought occured maybe in this day and age the new rifles were not meant to be disassembled like a average bolt action as I applied so much force I damn there rounded out the socket head; twisting the wrench as if it were glued in so he did not want it to be attempted..He took it back and I built him a Rem 700 for less then he paid for the box rifle Xbolt...I have read some owners of Xbolts after having removed their barreled actions with a hell of a lot of force discovered only afterwards the action was what appeared to be glued to the stock consequently leaving bedding/stock compound chunks stuck to the barrel/action giving me the thought perhaps for liability issues were not meant to be removed from the stock, still probably just a lack of release agent but who knew...Today is a era of lawsuits and liabilities so it's not out of the question to question it...I asked as I stated "because I do not own the MK3 yet" and thought someone on here had experience with the break down of this rifle I could not research it on the net.....I am from Pa. Decided years ago to build my own rifles and we are just implementing the law to allow semi auto for hunting so I never had much experience with the Browning MK3 auto here; the BAR although I don't own one but thanks to the info floating around on the break down seems to be simple procedure and could easily be set up in the lathe to machine it and may very well be like the MK3 I just asked if someone knew about it yet, however thanks for the pertinent info on the Browning bolts regardless.........Again if anyone has experience with the MK3 it is much appreciated..Been trying to reach a tech at Browning for this reasonable info.....quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
If this question has to be asked, then you should take it to a professional.
I have had all the Browning bolt actions, including the A-Bolt 3, and the X-Bolt, completely out of the stocks, and completely disassembled. There is no trick to it.
Best
If you had all that experience, that you say you have, you wouldn't need to be asking. I was just giving you good sound advice, so a useable rifle did not get destroyed. I have seen that too, as I have been doing this for 35 years.
Agreed, at one time Remington 700 was the best out of the box...but not any more. They are still the most widely used, because of price, and price alone. That in itself should tell you that Remington has been cutting corners...at least for two decades now, to keep that price low. Their receiver's are still the most widely used, and can be blue printed fairly easily.
EDIT 1
Just as an ironic aside, most of the high end action manufacturers, like Stillers, Defiance Machine, and Surgeon, all make a line of actions that mimic the foot print of the round bottom Remington 700 action. This is so it will fit into the many available stocks, made for the Remington 700 action, with minimal fitting. Also many of them also are set up to use the Remington 700 style triggers, and their aftermarket counterparts, like Timney, Shilen, and Jewell triggers.
quote:Originally posted by 1146markm
It is kinda offensive when someone asks a question and instead of a pertinent answer he gets "if you have to ask take it to a professional"..The question was asked because I don't have one yet, there is a lack of info on it out there, I have no experience with the MK3 yet and also because this is a forum and a source of information which assistance and a friendly reply is welcome and appreciated....When a relative brought me the (pretty) Browning bolt new in the box I could not break the action screw lose with any "reasonable force" such as is like the 68in action screws on the Remington's or Winchesters I have built, rebarreled, rechambered etc...There is a good reason military/law enforcement always used Remington's and I've stuck with them mostly and know them best... Although I know I COULD do it, not ever dealing with the Browning the thought occured maybe in this day and age the new rifles were not meant to be disassembled like a average bolt action as I applied so much force I damn there rounded out the socket head; twisting the wrench as if it were glued in so he did not want it to be attempted..He took it back and I built him a Rem 700 for less then he paid for the box rifle Xbolt...I have read some owners of Xbolts after having removed their barreled actions with a hell of a lot of force discovered only afterwards the action was what appeared to be glued to the stock consequently leaving bedding/stock compound chunks stuck to the barrel/action giving me the thought perhaps for liability issues were not meant to be removed from the stock, still probably just a lack of release agent but who knew...Today is a era of lawsuits and liabilities so it's not out of the question to question it...I asked as I stated "because I do not own the MK3 yet" and thought someone on here had experience with the break down of this rifle I could not research it on the net.....I am from Pa. Decided years ago to build my own rifles and we are just implementing the law to allow semi auto for hunting so I never had much experience with the Browning MK3 auto here; the BAR although I don't own one but thanks to the info floating around on the break down seems to be simple procedure and could easily be set up in the lathe to machine it and may very well be like the MK3 I just asked if someone knew about it yet, however thanks for the pertinent info on the Browning bolts regardless.........Again if anyone has experience with the MK3 it is much appreciated..Been trying to reach a tech at Browning for this reasonable info.....quote:Originally posted by tsr1965
If this question has to be asked, then you should take it to a professional.
I have had all the Browning bolt actions, including the A-Bolt 3, and the X-Bolt, completely out of the stocks, and completely disassembled. There is no trick to it.
Best
If you had all that experience, that you say you have, you wouldn't need to be asking. I was just giving you good sound advice, so a useable rifle did not get destroyed. I have seen that too, as I have been doing this for 35 years.
Agreed, at one time Remington 700 was the best out of the box...but not any more. They are still the most widely used, because of price, and price alone. That in itself should tell you that Remington has been cutting corners...at least for two decades now, to keep that price low. Their receiver's are still the most widely used, and can be blue printed fairly easily.
EDIT 1
Just as an ironic aside, most of the high end action manufacturers, like Stillers, Defiance Machine, and Surgeon, all make a line of actions that mimic the foot print of the round bottom Remington 700 action. This is so it will fit into the many available stocks, made for the Remington 700 action, with minimal fitting. Also many of them also are set up to use the Remington 700 style triggers, and their aftermarket counterparts, like Timney, Shilen, and Jewell triggers.