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Aftermarket Mauser Triggers

leeblackmanleeblackman Member Posts: 5,303 ✭✭
edited September 2001 in Ask the Experts
I'm wanting to put a new trigger in my Swedish 96 Mauser. I would like to also convert it to Cock on Open. I want it to astetically look military though so no extra trigger safeties. So far I've seen three triggers Timney, Bold, and Dayton Traister.None of them are at enough expense for that to be a factor. From what I know the Dayton Traister comes with stuff to convert to cock on open without modification to bolt, the other two trigger brands would require that I purchase a seperate kit which would require bolt modification.Does anyone have any experience with these triggers. Feel, weight, etc.

Comments

  • modocmodoc Member Posts: 474 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have several triggers of differing kinds but my favorites are the timmney for the low cost and feel.Canjar is probably the best that I own as it is a set type.Fine for bench work but a tad too delicate for hunting.I've never had a seconds amount of trouble with any of them.In the original militaries I like to leave them as I find them.There is just something about the two stage that adds realism to the whole experience.As a rough and tumble rifle I leave them alone. Especially handy for varmint hunting in the snow country where one finds gloves a must,the two stage is the safest trigger to use.That,of course,is in my humble opinion.
  • luger01luger01 Member Posts: 230 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've used Timney triggers in several Mausers. They were all easy, drop-in replacements and the results were very, very satisfactory.
  • D.S.COLED.S.COLE Member Posts: 611 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have used both Timney and Bold triggers quite a bit. either will work very good.You usually have to remove some wood around the trigger housing to put it together. often the oval slot in the tang that the sear comes up through needs lengthening.If you use the trigger with the side safety you must make a cut out in the wood beside the tang for the safety to move back and forth in. On converting to cock on opening dont do it unless you have a lot of experience with such things. It cant be done without cutting a camming surface on the back of the bolt, This is very difficult to cut and polish to where it will work properly. the replacement cocking piece must mate with the camming surface and most of the ones Ive seen take about 50 lbs. of pressure to lift the bolt. It can be done but usually the first few tries are a disaster.The kit made by Ed Delorge of Loisiana is the best Ive found. He advertises in the gun trade papers.Good luck.DSC
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