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barrel twist ?
47studebaker
Member Posts: 2,251 ✭✭✭✭✭
fast twist for lighter or heaver bullets ??
Trying to get better groups with a 7mm Mag.
Trying to get better groups with a 7mm Mag.
Comments
I like the quicker end of the range usually. RPM's don't shed at all compared to velocity.
Personally, I'd like to hear more about your question and what tests you've run already.
Longer bullets require a faster twist rate.
More than just a general rule, bullet stability is basically controlled by the twist rate. It is the length and diameter of the bullet which are required to determine that twist rate. The formula most often employed is the Greenhill formula.
Here is a work sheet for the formula:
http://kwk.us/twist.html
As simple as the formula looks, there is a lot of background math involved as well as form factors or the shape of the bullet.
There is a ton of reading you can do with regard to twist rate and the Greenhill formula. But if you need an in depth study of bullets in flight, read this:
http://www.nennstiel-ruprecht.de/bullfly/
Best.
About 4 years ago I bought a TC Contender with a 7mm TCU rifle barrel and began to reload for it. After trying 152 and 139 bullets I settled on 120's as the most accurate in the TCU rifle barrel.
I loaded up some of the 139's in 7mm Mag but haven't shot them yet. Today I bought a box of 162 and loaded them up. I'll be trying them this coming week as PA Bear opens on the 21st.
I haven't yet figured out the rate of twist on the Colt Sauer (made in the 70's) I tried finding the rate of twist using a patch and then a bore brush but the cleaning rod would not rotate.
Unfortunately your Colt/Sauer isn't on my twist rate list. However other sources suggest that it should be either 1:9" or 1:10" based on their models. Either one should stabilize the 162's at 7mm Rem Mag velocities.
To measure the twist rate with a patch and cleaning rod, the rod must have a ball bearing handle. Cheap rods do not always have this due to the cost. The patch over the brush needs to be somewhat tight in order to fit down into the grooves to get the rod to rotate.
You might consider that there could be another problem with your rifle other than twist rate given that it's a 70's rifle probably with a wood stock...
I would check the forearm and barrel channel for clearance around the barrel. I would also check the recoil lug area for debris and maybe a pad used under the the end of the forearm for upward pressure on thinner barrels. Then I would have the barreled action bedded.
Best.
I was reminded this morning by a fellow member that these rifles probably had an adjustable barrel tension system. You might consider removing the barreled action from the stock to see what you find.
While you're at it, remember to check the recoil lug and the pocket it resides in for debris. Then check the barrel channel for contact other than the system mentioned.
Best.
Thanks to all for the ideas.
After some range work this week I'll post some results.