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rem 700 BDL stock ??
varian
Member Posts: 2,250 ✭✭✭✭
i have a 1989 or so 700 in .338 win mag. the stock has a split in it from in front of the rear action screw thru the screw hole and about 1.5 inches down the wrist on the top. cant tell how deep the crack is from top to bottom but does not appear to go all the way from top to bottom. would it help to put in a pillar for the rear action screw. also is the magnum action stock the same as a bdl long action stock?
Comments
It sounds like two things happened at the same time.
The barreled action was not bedded and got a 'run' at the rear of the inlet.
The grain structure may be slightly weak at the point of the intersection of the rear of the action and the inlet.
Since we don't know your skill level, it's hard to determine if you want to or can fix this or have a professional help out.
Normally, we would remove the barreled action and bottom metal from the stock. Determine approximately how deep the split is, then push some Super Glue into the split and clamp until set.
Drill and set pillars front and back, open the recoil lug inlet, then bed the action and the bottom metal to the pillars.
This should prevent the split from re-occurring and improve the performance (consistency) of the rifle.
There is a lot more to this process but this is the short (Cliff Notes) version.[:D]
Best.
ADDED:
The stocks are the same, the barrel channels are different.
Best.
What usually causes the split at the rear tang hole in the wood is the rear tang screw is taking part of the recoil when the gun is fired and the stock splits into the wrist area. The recoil lug area in the wood is weak or needs reinforced so as it takes the recoil then the rear tang screw needs a hole thru the stock large enough that it is completely free of all recoil force even if pillar bedded or not. (the rear tang screw should not be taking any of the recoil force)
Takes quite bit of effort and time butI have repaired nice looking gunstocks stocks that were not badly split at this tang area if the front recoil area of the wood can be dug out and re-glassed and re-enforced. (some magnum stocks are also split at the recoil lug area if you closely inspect. I use ground aluminum powder mixed into Brownells Acraglass gel to strengthen the glass bedding I install in the recoil lug area, Aluminum powder will not rust vs steel powder.
Sometimes just have to sacrifice the beat up stock and get another stock OR do this. If the stock is still solid enough at the hairline crack at the rear tang I inject some glue, super glue or acraglass jel let it dry then I completely strip the stock of it's original finish and use checkering tools and checker a Diamond pattern on top of the hairline crack. Some of the old model Remington stocks used this pattern in this area. The checkering hides the hairline. Stain the stock a dark walnut color and use a Birchwood Caseys tru-oil stock re-finish kit. ($15 for the kit and read the instructions couple times first)
You first have to determine if the old cracked stock is worth the effort vs just getting a replacement stock and then properly glass bedding it at the recoil area and make sure the rear tang screw falls out of the wood (has clearance at the rear tang area of the wood and the screw's shaft is not taking any of the recoil force or the replacement stock will also eventually crack at the tang area)[;)]