reloading question

sig-man · October 2001

I am having to use BR-2 large rifle primers on my 22-250 reloads.

I have been putting 39.2 grains of H380 under a 53GR Barnes TSX FB.

The Barnes book says you can go over this charge a little because of the ring lands groves in the bullet.

My question is ,

Do you think I should back off a few tenths of a grain to offset the large rifle primer?

sig-man · October 2001

Does anyone know what the factory load is for
270 wsm Winchester Supreme loaded with a 130 grain balistic silvertip bullet. I am looking mostly for powder charge and powder type. I have a friend that will reload them for me but I want to stick with the factrory specs because it shoots soooo well.
Thanks
Steve

sig-man · October 2001

For case resizing: Is there something around the house that can be substituted for case lube?

sig-man · October 2001

Say I have some 300 win. mag. match ammo with a 190 grain bullet, and I want to knock out that bullet and replace it with 180 grain ballistic tips, would I have to back off on the powder , or leave it alone and have more or less velocity?

sig-man · October 2001

Gents,

If I fire a factory round in my bolt action then it should form fit to the chamber right? If this is the case then if i resize the case back to factory standards then am I decreasing case life and potentially creating headspace issues? I am new to reloading and have been taking baby steps to make sure I understand the basics and foundation.

Did a search under headspace and resizing and didn't get much back.

sig-man · October 2001

How important is it to tumble brass before it's reloaded? What polishing medium is used?
Thanks.
GH1[:)]

sig-man · October 2001

Got my .44 rifle the other day, and the local gunsmith is telling me that I can't shoot pistol rounds through it, cause it will bulge the chamber, but no one lists "rifle" date for .44 special. Is he FOS, or should I be worried?

I've checked Hodgdon, and they list the same load for rifle and pistol.

Advice would REALLY be appreciated right now. Thanks.

O Lord,
grant me the Serenity
to accept the things
I cannot change
the courage to change the things I can,
and the supreme firepower to make the difference.

sig-man · October 2001

does anyone know of a powder despener that maintains the weight better than the one i have now the one i have seems to vary + or - up to 4 grains of powder?

larry

sig-man · October 2001

I just bought a Marlin .44 mag lever action rifle. I took it out to the range and fed it some of my .44 special reloads - that work fine in my revolver. Copper washed lead bullets loaded to medium pressures. Well, I got one or two shots off and the rifle jammed. What it turned out to be was that the bullets had sunk into the casing - I guess from the recoil and the fact that they are loaded one in back of the other. Is there anything I can change in my reloading technique to correct this? Thanks.

sig-man · October 2001

I have recently been experiencing a problem when reloading for my 9mm.
I noticed the problem when I switched from the Hornady boat-tails to any flat bottom/spitzer head.

The problem is I am getting a very small bulge in the brass right at the base of the bullet. It's not enough to affect the round cycling in my pistol but it is just annoying to look at.

I was just wondering if anyone might know the cause and possibly a solution.

THANKS! in advance.

sig-man · October 2001

i am new at reloading, tonight i was resizing and knocking the spent primers out of my 7mm cases and i noticed a small dent in the neck on the first case that i resized, i threw it out and i figured that i have the die to low? i was wondering if i did the right thing by throwing the case with the dented neck away and why did i dent the neck of the case.
thanks

sig-man · October 2001

I'm new to reloading. I reload 45 acp with once fired brass, 7.5gr Alliant Pistol powder 230gr full metal jacket round nose, cci large pistol primers. The problem I'm having is that the bullet is keyholing in the target. I've shot these through a 5",4",3" Kimbers with the same effect. Any hints?

sig-man · October 2001

Can russian 7.62x54 bullets be pulled and used for 30-06?

sig-man · October 2001

I've started gearing up for reloading 41 mag and have been studying a bit here and there. I've purchased some Hornaday reloading dies that claim they are lube free dies. Is this correct? Is the lube mainling used in the resizing process? My other questions are about supplies. I purchased some Federal No. 155 Magnum large pistol primers. Are they good enough to start off with. Any suggestions on a compatiple poweder to start off with? Now as far as the scale is concerned will an inexspecive scale be reliable enough to start off with?
Last questions. I've recently came across a couple of older reloading guides. One is a Hercules, copy right date is 1978 and a Hodgdon, copy right date is unknown but it states that it is the second printing. Should I use these and if so are the powders listed going to be hard to find? TIA for any help.[:)]

Born To Hunt... Forced To Work... #@!#$!!

sig-man · October 2001

was looking on midwayusa.com and if I understand right the same dies can be used to reload the 45 acp and the 45 auto rim?
any help appreciated, thanks

sig-man · October 2001

I am just starting to get into reloading and have this question. Does the reloading manual's suggested load data work for different bullet types as long as the weight remains the same? Example being speer 115 gr .335 v. zero .335 115 gr?Thanks for the replies.

sig-man · October 2001

Yesterday I was playing with my 257 Roberts that I've had some accuracy problems with. I loaded up 3 rounds using 35 grains of Varget and a 115 gr Nosler B.T. The OAL was 2.920". This group of 3 averaged about 7/8" at 100 yards. I loaded up 3 more with the same powder and charge, except this time I made the OAL 2.900 and the grouping opened up to about 6". My question is, can .020" make that big of a difference in accuracy? Next question is, how good of a bullet is the Nosler B.T. on deer? I heard it said once that they have too thin a jacket to get adequate penetration, and my final question is, on bullets with a cannelure, such as the Speer Grand Slam, is it necessary to seat the bullet so the cannelure is at the rim of the case?

bfair · October 2001

Take a look here: http://www.reloadammo.com/300load.htm It's hard to say about reducing the powder charge, since you don't know what the powder of the orig load is.

Semper Paratus

Dragunov7.62x54R · October 2001

You need to get some load data, find out what type of powder is in it, then find out how much you need for whatever type of bullet your using. You have to properly remove the bullet and reseat and crimp the new bullet. Its a process, not just a simple pull with plyers and replace kinda thing.Its not as easy as you think if you wanna be safe about it.I'd leave those cartridges alone.If you have to much or not enough powder you can really mess something up.Be safe, not stupid.If your interested in getting into handloading you need to find some books on it. There are many reloading manuals, just about every bullet manufacterer has one.

Shootist3006 · October 2001

Assuming that you can SAFELY replace the bullet. you should get slightly less MV - not a significant change.

Quod principi placuit legis habet vigorem.Semper Fidelis

Iconoclast · October 2001

Safest course of action would be to shoot the rounds you have now & start from scratch w/ a known powder and the 180gr.

truckershaverightstoo · October 2001

Please tell us that you are not serious about loading that way. First of all you need a loading press,then you need dies, I think you said 300 win mag,whatever it is you need dies for that particular cartride. Now you need a powder measure,scale and a powder dribbler. Next you need a quality set of dial calipers,priming tool,case trimmer and a reputable loading manual. you will need to buy primers,powder and bullets. First you need empty brass so go shoot what you have and save the cases. You may also want a case tumbler to clean them but I'll tell you now and especially in magnum cases tumbling shortens case life. After you have some empty brass you will need to resize and knock out the old primer on all the cases. Get out your sizing die and set it up the way your loading manual tells you. Now get a can of case lube and spray down the cases( I prefer ONE SHOT). After the lube sets up you can now resize the cases,the primer will come out at the same time. Now look in your loading manual and on the first page of you cartridge you will a picture of the case,see the measurment from the base to the neck? Get you dial calipers and measure each and everyone of the cases, all cases that are long set them aside. After you are done measuring them now you need to set up you case trimmer,follow the instuctions included with it!!!! Now that you have a set of sized and trimmed cases it is time to "fill 'em up". Get out you priming tool and follow the directions on priming them. When you are done with that you will need your powder measure ,scale and dribbler. Now hopefully after consulting the person at the sporting goods store and making a powder selection and bullet section you have refered to your loading bible and determined how hot to load them,word to the wise ,,start at the lowest charge and load five,increase charge by 1/2 to 1 grain and load five more and continue till you either find a load that works or you reach max.Ok now lets load the cases,you probably have an IMR powder so you WILL NEED THE DRIBBLER! IMR powders and others like it will NOT consistantly measure so measure each one on the scale and dribble to desired charge. Now that you have all the cases charged it is time to seat the bullets.GO SLOW WITH THIS BECAUSE A BULLET SEATED TOO DEEP OR TOO LONG WILL INCREASE PRESSURE AND RUIN YOUR WHOLE DAY! Seat the bullets to the specified C.O.L in the manual for you particular bullet,pay attention to what the bullet is classified as and adjust the seating die a little at a time untill you reach desired depth. If you want total accuracy I suggest seating the a bullet in a dummy case long and then chamber the case in the gun,if the bolt closes hard remove the case and give the seating die 1/2 turn and repeat untill the bolt closes easily,also use a marker on the bullet to watch for contact with the rifeling. Please read the manual front to back and if you have any questions consult you locall sporting goods clerk or someone who is knowledable about reloading. reloading is not easy and can be boring and frustrating. It should be taken very serious as one mistake can cost you your gun at the very least and maybe your life. Loading can have an inital investment that can scare most people from it and if one powder don't do what you want you have to buy more and at $20 a can it can get quite expensive. Godd luck and BE CAREFULL!

spclark · October 2001

PLEASE go buy a reloading manual.PLEASE read & follow the directions.PLEASE respect the safety of yourself & those around you when you load your own reloaded ammunition AND when you take it to the range to use. It only takes ONE mistake to ruin EVERYBODY'S days from then on.

sig-man · October 2001

First let me say that I have been reloading for almost twenty years, I have all the stuff I need to do it safely, A buddy got some match ammo from some seal team guys loaded for their stuff, they shoot real tight groups, but are of bullet type not condusive to killing deer, He wants to put the 180 grain ballistic tips on the same powder ,casing everything, pull the bullets with kinetic hammer the whole nine yards,he just wanted to know if by reducing the bullet weight with the same powder load if it would increase or decrease the velocity...

bfair · October 2001

As a rule of thumb. Lighter bullet with the same powder charge will less pressure. I don't have any data in my Hercules load charts for a 190 gr 300 Win Mag. I goes from 180 gr to 200 gr.180 gr with 76.9 gr of Hercules Reloader 22will give you 3,030 fps @ 60,000 psi.200 gr with 73.4 gr of Reloader 22 will give you 2875 fps @ 60,000 psi.So since your going from a heavier to a lighter bullet you will acutally have a reduced charge for the 180. However this would be based on the fact both bullets were of the same type ie. SpitzerOk I'm ready for all you reloaders to attack.

Home of the Blue Angels, P'colaSemper Paratus

reloading question

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