22-250 to 220 Swift

coop359

I have a 75 Sako 22-250 that I would like to make into a 220 Swift. It has a detachable mag that has plenty of room for the swift. So, could I just have the barrel changed? Also, who makes a good shooting barrel? And will I still be able to use the magazine?
Thank you.
coop359

Hawkshaw

Way cheaper, and as fast, (if you hand load), would be to rechamber to the .22-.250 Ackley Improved. I've done that on many guns, including the .22-.250. Good luck HAWKSHAW

coop359

Thanks Hawkshaw. The problem that I'm having is that the 22-250 does not shoot well with a cold barrell, 1.5" at 100 yds. So I would like to change to a Swift if possible.

kumate

Kreiger,douglas and Shileen are good barrels.Have your smith square and lapp the action.Also specify your twist to match your bullet weight,some 22 cals are real finikey

hk-91

quote:Originally posted by coop359
I have a 75 Sako 22-250 that I would like to make into a 22 Swift. It has a detachable mag that has plenty of room for the swift. So, could I just have the barrel changed? Also, who makes a good shooting barrel? And will I still be able to use the magazine?
Thank you.
coop359




why would you want to do this. the 22-250 is a common round that took over the 22 swift and if you did change only thing you would gain is price in ammo.

Butch Stewart

I also vote for the 22-250 AI. I had a standard Remington 700 Varmit that was a 1.5" cold barrel shooter but when the barrel was set back half a thread and rechambered the groups went to .5", every shot. You have nothing to lose and if the Sako won't shoot any better, rebarrel. By the way my rechamber to the AI cost $75, well worth the small cost to have accuracy. The time I save in brass preperation is a second reason to go to the AI. I also shot Swifts (I had 3 at one time) and the brass prep was tedious.

nononsense

coop359,

"The problem that I'm having is that the 22-250 does not shoot well with a cold barrell..."

Somehow I get the impression that we aren't getting all of the story necessary to make any kind of viable judgment about your problem.

You seem to be suggesting that the cartridge is at fault when in reality it's probably some other aspect or detail(s) withing the system if the rifle. The .22-250 Remington has a reputation for fine if not outstanding accuracy in the varmint and target fields. Sure the barrel can be at fault as can the chamber, crown, bedding or lack thereof or the the torque on the action screws, a pressure point in the barrel channel or under the action somewhere or the scope and any of its components. Your best bet is to have the rifle gone over by a gunsmith familiar with debugging accuracy problems with rifles before spending what could be a fair amount of money.

Simply switching to the Ackley Improved version of a cartridge is no guarantee of improved accuracy no matter how many examples are given. It is the action of truing up the barrel, chamber and crown that improved the accuracy not the change in the cartridge shape. Sorry to burst your bubble but that's the truth.

Best.

RCrosby

Glad nononsense got to you first. I was going to tell you the same thing, but not expressed nearlyh as well. Find out what the accuracy problem is first, then, if you must have a swift, go for it, but not because you think the chamber change alone will give you the "magic bullet".

coop359

Sorry, I had a typo in my question. It should read 220 Swift, not 22 Swift. Thanks to everyone that replied. I feel that it is just something about my gun, possibly bedding. After my gun is warm it will shoot 1/2" group at a 100. I was just thinking that if I was going to have it bedded, I would just change the barrel and make it a 220 Swift.

woodguru

I've had many Sakos, and .22-250 and .243 heavy barreled varmint versions were superbly accurate. I did notice that in the .22-250 that a clean and oiled barrel was prone to throwing the first few shots around. Three or four shots would settle the rifle in to under 1/2" groups with factory Winchester loads. Try shooting and letting the barrel go cold and then seeing if the first couple of shots are still loose.<br>
<br>
The configuration of the pattern can be an indicator of the problem. A vertical line can indicate a situation where free floating or pillaring the forearm may correct that problem. .220 Swift as pointed out by others would not be the preferred switch, you should have a benefit in mind for any alternative such as economy or inherent accuracy, or possibly ease of acquiring or forming brass. I think 22-250 is a pretty sweet cartridge and the Sakos usually are as good as it gets. No nonsense covered the fact that running down accuracy issues is a process and can have many possible solutions. Try torquing the lug at a controlled rate and trying it at different levels, I've had rifles that were sensitive to certain degrees of pressure. Then I would make sure the barrel has the space to allow a dollar bill to be slid down to the base of the barrel. After that you really need to know what you are doing in looking at bedding and barrel issues. I've always considered bedding a rifle that doesn't need it to be contra-indicated, nothing needed nothing gained.

ern98

My 2cents would be to suggest that you get a 220swift cartridge or two and test the mag/feed. The swift isn't so much longer that the bolt shouldn't pick up one out of the mag. If the mag or the feeding should be a problem then sorry your conversion isn't probably very practical. If they are fine then go for it as you seem to want a 220 swift and then more power to you. Your thought about changing the barrel at the same time as addressing the bedding/problems is a good one, as you don't want to do it twice. You might want to find out what smith you will use for the project and get his opinion on barrel and proceedure. Many rifle smiths want to do it their way and to not value their opinion can raise issues as well as price and time delays. Good luck with it.........