2 - 300 Wincheter Mags

Sparty_76

A couple years ago I decided to invest in a 300 Win Mag. Did not really need it as I do not hunt big game except a few hogs. Just wanted something on the range to shoot at 300 yard targets. I have a 1903 sportorized that I use on hogs and at the range out to 200 yards.

Anyways I found on GunBroker a Thompson Center Venture for $250 after a $75 rebate. I did not think I could go wrong, bought a new Nikon ProStaff Scope that I put on it. I was surprised when I got it that it had a thicker barrel then I expected. However, it felt a bit cheap I did not expect much. However, at the range I was surprised to find it was a heck of a gun at 300 yards, with excellent groupings. One of the best $500 investments I ever made.

A few months ago my best friend sold me another 300 Win Mag in a Model 70 Winchester stainless steel barrel. It has a 3x9 Redfield Scope on it. It has the BOSS system on the end of the barrel. For $400 dollars and 60 rounds I did not think I could go wrong.
Well at the range I can not get the darn thing sighted in after 3 boxes of shells! I looked up the Boss system and think I have it set right. How do you check out the scope. I am thinking it might not be worth a darn? Any suggestions on how to check out the scope? I tried a bore sight but at 300 yards

If I had to sell one it would be that darned Winchester! I am to stubborn and want to get it dialed in! I would buy another Venture in a heart beat!

Thanks!

Thanks.

NeoBlackdog

Are you trying to sight it in at 300? If so, then drop back to 100. The 300 WM will rise to 75 yards (first time it crosses the line of sight) and then drop just a tiny bit to be on at 100. Get it grouping decent there and then try to stretch it's legs.

62fuelie

Make sure all the screws are properly tightened. Especially the base screws under the scope. Is it an original Redfield from the 60's/70's or one of the new ones? Neo is right on on initial sighting. If the rifle won't group at 100 yards it sure won't group at 300+.

gunnut505

Quick and easy way to get started with putting the scope's reticle on target:
Pull the bolt out, set the rifle in a STABLE position using a sandbag or other method.
Look through the bore at a well-defined target, and note its' point of aim.
Without moving the rifle at all, look through the scope & see if it's looking at the same place as the bore.
Adjust the scope until they match.
Use a distant target (over 100 yards away), and be sure the bore is looking at the same place as the scope. Adjust scope if necessary.
If the bases, rings & mounts are properly attached; you should be within an inch or so of your point of aim when you shoot.

The above procedure is what I use to actually bore sight my guns.
If your eyes are bad, or the scope is trash, or your muzzle crown is damaged; your success may vary.

charliemeyer007

Have you cleaned the bore with a good copper solvent? Stainless tends to tear rather than cut when rifled. It will/can foul easily. Takes longer to iron in too. JB's bore paste can help.

I would want to know I had the boss set right not just think. Perhaps its time for a different setting. I never judge centerfire firearms with factory ammo.

All it takes is some careless person along the custody path to drop the box few feet and the bullets can go cockeyed - which is reflected in the groups. Short neck cartridges and more easily damaged, goes the same for nice aerodynamic bullets like boattails.

I think generally high velocity bullets will cut the paper the same place at 25 yards as they do at 250 yards. Once on the way up and once on the way down of the line of sight.
The look threw the bore at an orange felt roofing cap in the tree at 25 yards is what I use.

Not all rifles shoot good, it could be a lemon

tsr1965

With the common line of sight being 1.5-1.75 inches, the first line of sight crossing for the 300 Winchester magnum, is like most other rifle cartridges, between 25, and 30 yards. Oh, and BTW, it does not keep rising to 75 yards, it starts dropping, like all other rifle cartridges, as soon as it leaves the barrel.

That said, I have several Model 70's, and if yours is a later New Haven production model, it might need some help like removing all the old Hot Glue bedding, installing pillars, and bedding it in Marine Tex, or Brownells's Steel bed. Do NOT use Accraglass anything to bed. The first two I mentioned are a lot better options.

Does your Model 70 have the claw extractor, controlled round feeding, or is it the push feed model with a bolt similar to the Remington 700?

Not sure if that particular scope is up to snuff, but definitely not where I would start with a scope for that class of a rifle. The scope must also be properly mounted, in solid bases, and good rings, and the rings, unless you are using a 1 piece 1913 Picatinny rail, and upper end matching tactical rings that are line bored, need to be lapped for proper fit. The only ones that do not need to be lapped other than the upper end tactical rings, are the Burris Signature, which uses a collet insert.

Best of luck on getting it straightened out.