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You May Think This Is Hokey!

sig232sig232 Member Posts: 8,018
edited October 2009 in Ask the Experts
Not having the bore sighting kit I simply used a line level and a circle bubble level to set up my scopes on my 22 and my 22-250.

leveled the rifle with the line level that I got from Home Depot for a couple of bucks and then leveled the scope with a circle bubble level set on top of the flat upright adjustment cap for the scope. Both levels from Home Depot.

Set the rifle in a home made cradle made out of scrap lumber and it won't win any prizes for looks but it worked like a charm.

Put a little blue locktite on all the screws to hold the base and scope in place.

I think I spent about $5 for both levels.

Not the professional gun shop way to do things but it looks good and I suspect I will be on the paper when I go to the rifle range. If not I will make a little bore site thingy out of dowel (barrel size) with one of those circle orange X target centers to dial in the scope. Looks easy to make with a level on the back to insure you have the crosshairs level. Might be a fun project for an ole retired guy with time on his hands. Pretty is as pretty does, right?


Your thoughts?

Comments

  • Tailgunner1954Tailgunner1954 Member Posts: 7,734 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    The best use for your level is to make sure the rifle is level from side to side, and to match the scope to that so that the croshair is level to the rifle.
    For bore sighting a standard "mark-1 eyeball" works wonders (using a fired case with the primer removed helps).
    For actions where you can't remove the bolt, a small mirror or (if you can find one) a prixem in the action can be used.

    Total cost = zero, and it will always be with you when needed/wanted.
  • wagwag Member Posts: 28 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    You will regret using the locktite on the ring screws. I have found the ring screws are fairly soft and will be hard to remove without tearing the heads up. WAG
  • stevecreastevecrea Member Posts: 486 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I completely agree with you. Simplicity and practicality rule the day.

    My regimen goes like this: After mounting the scope, put out a target at 15 yards or perhaps 25 yards, put the rifle in a rest, remove the bolt (assuming it is a bolt action), look down the bore and align it with the bullseye, then look through the scope and adjust it until the zero of the scope is pointing at the same point of aim as the bore.

    Then fire a shot. Adjust as needed. Fire another shot, and adjust as needed. Then, move the target out to at least 50, 75 or 100 yards, and proceed to fine tune.

    With only two or three rounds, you will be on target at least as close as a boresight.
  • OleDukOleDuk Member Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Be careful how you use that term "Hokey" !!

    OleDuk [:D][:D] VT'60
  • MobuckMobuck Member Posts: 13,991 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I've used eyeball, laser, and mechanical bore sighters. I've found the mechanical ones about worthless except for horizontal alignment. The lasers work well for basic alignment and allow a scope check anywhere. Given a good rest and decent light, I do better with the eyeball than the laser. I use an 8" white circle at 100 yards as the target to align the crosshairs on. Most times I'm within 4-6" with the first shot.
  • JustCJustC Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    level the scope/rifle by puuting the level across the bottom half of the rings,...then, hand a weighted line off the target. Once the line stops moving, get the scope vertical crosshairs to match the hanging line, and everything is now level and squared.
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