Flintlock rifle questions

flyingtorpedo

I just bought a used Dixie Flintlock Rifle - 45 cal - 41" barrel.
First question: What are the design differences between a Pennsylvania Rifle and a Kentucky Rifle. Second question: What size ball and what FFg or FFFg Black Powder load do you recommend for this rifle? I'll use FFFFg in the pan.Any patch & lube recommendation?Third question: Are there some type of leather slings available for this type rifle since it has no sling swivels? Perhaps something that can be tied on to the barrel and the stock?
Thanks
John



Forgive Your Enemies - But Remember Their Names
(John F. Kennedy)

flyingtorpedo

I'm looking to pick up a flintlock rifle. Not real sure why, but I've wanted one for a while. Think it would be fun. I don't have any experience with black powder. I'm not looking for an expensive one. Just something to play with that is reasonable accurate for the price. Give me an idea on barrel twist. Would a 1 in 48 be the best for the widest range in bullet type? Also, how hard is it to assemble one of the unfinished kits? I like the idea of assembling it myself. Seems like it would help me learn the rifle as well.

truthful

Unless you go with a custom gun, you probably won't have a lot of choice of twist. The standard replica type guns pretty much have a standard twist based on the caliber. Some may also have a different twist if the gun is expected to shoot a patched round ball or if it is expected to fire a miniball. Miniballs came along with percussion so they aren't all that authentic for a flinter. If it is just to do some casual plinking with it, I'd suggest a smaller caliber .... less expensive to shoot, less recoil, etc. Shoot patched balls and vary the powder load somewhat to find what you and the gun like best. If you've never fired a flintlock, be aware that it is a bit different from firing a modern gun or even a percussion arm. When you pull the trigger there is a very perceptible delay until the gun fires. The spark from the flint ignites the powder in the pan which is going to smoke and flame right in front of your face. It's not a big deal but it can cause you to flinch. Of course, the delay after the trigger pull doesn't help accuracy either.

idahoducker

I put together a T/C Hawken kit when I was in high school. Wasn't hard just took time as you'd expect. Sand and finish the wood. Had to fine tune the inletting just a little to make the lock fit right. No big deal. The harder part was finishing the barrel. Did it by hand, no power tools and it took a while to get it smooth before I browned it. Glad I chose browning over blueing. Looks good. My Hawken in .50 is really accurate. Don't know if it's still available in flint lock though.
There are some custom kit makers out there that will put together a rifle kit for you the way you want it and as prefinished as you want.

lock stock and barrel

You just missed a good deal on my flinter, I though it would be fun too, after clowning around twice at the range I sold it for a new in line that will fire when I pull the trigger. just stick with the brand names like T/C or your fun will be frustration...[;)]

flyingtorpedo

I was looking at the t/c kits and none of them were flintlock. I know there will be a long delay between when I pull the trigger and when it fires and lots of smoke/fire in my face. I'm thinking about maybe the hawken flintlock.

turkeyinstrut

I bought a Hatfield flintlock several years ago, I go to several rendezvous a year and thought I needed a flintlock ( to be more authentic ) the gun about ruined me it had me flinching really bad the P.O.S. would only go off about half the time ( if I was lucky ). That gun had the worst lock I have ever seen. Long story short.... dont put a bunch of money into one, it takes a special breed of person to shoot a flintlock.... just my opinion.