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parkerizing

oracleoracle Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
edited November 2001 in Ask the Experts
Can anyone reccomend a gunsmith or company that does parkerizing, preferably in TX? I have an old 870 that I'd like to get done. Thanks.
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Comments

  • oracleoracle Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Who does parkerizing on the east coast/Virginia-North Carolina area? I am looking to get some Remington 1100's done, thanks in advance...
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  • oracleoracle Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done home parkerizing. Have a few pistols I'd like to parkerize and was wondering if its as user friendly as stated in ads. God Bless America.
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  • oracleoracle Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Can anyone tell me how to "spot" parkerize a very small area to match the original finish of a 1911A1? Is it possible?
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  • oracleoracle Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    if a pistol is parkrized and the roll marks are hard to see, if you remove the parkerizing and go back to blue will the marks still be there or will it make it even harder to see
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  • oracleoracle Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I was at the Indi gun show and saw some parkerizing solution. It said I needed a stainless steel container to do it in. Any suggestions. Has to be able to fit a barrel in it so a pot wont work.

    Thanks

    Larry
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  • oracleoracle Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am getting ready to re-do my mosin. I want to parkerize it and have the kit to do it.

    I have 2 questions.

    1. Do I need to remove all the blueing?

    2. Do I have to protect the inside of the barrel, and what would be the best way to protect the inside if I do?

    Thanks for the help.[:D]
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  • rhmc24rhmc24 Member Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I did some home parkerizing years ago. Used an aluminum pot and the first gun turned out bright green. Use stainless steel vessel. I recall the main ingredient was phosphoric acid I got from highschool chem lab. As with any first time procedure, try it on scrap first. Hope this helps.
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  • RobinRobin Member Posts: 1,228 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Sorry for the stupid question, but can you parkerize with the product "Ospho"? The label looks like it is some kind of phosphoric acid. Just curious, because I have used it to kill rust prior to painting farm equipment that sometimes never gets painted but the surface rust doesn't come back for a long time. thanks
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  • oracleoracle Member Posts: 37 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks for responding. I am hoping to hear from someone who has used a prepackaged parkerizing kit like the ones offered on the web for $40. or so. Thanks again
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  • compgunfirecompgunfire Member Posts: 95 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I bought a kit like you've mentioned at a local gunshow a few years back. I found that unless you were willing to spent the proper amount of prep-time preparing the weapons parts, the finish wasn't that great (looked spotty and uneven).Now I use a glass-beading, followed by a rinse bath in an industrial cleaner before dipping the parts I want parkerized. I've also used an automotive "Black Oxide" kit with good results. The main key is the prep work. Every little imperfection shows.
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  • StarrideStarride Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Here's a site that I stumbled across that might help: http://www.jouster.com/articles30m1/parkerizing.html Haven't tried it yet but sound pretty simple. Starride[This message has been edited by Starride (edited 10-30-2001).]
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  • TED GARTED GAR Member Posts: 389 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    GLASS BEAD, THEN, BOIL THE GUN TO GET ALL THE OIL OUT OF THE METAL, USE PLASTIC GLOVES WHEN HANDLING THE GUN AFTER BOILING. IF YOU ACCIDENTLY PUT YOUR FINGERPRINTS ON THE METAL, YOU WILL GET A SORRY FINISH. BECAUSE FINGERPRINTS HAVE A NATURAL OIL, I DONT CARE HOW CLEAN YOUR HANDS ARE! THEN DIP IT IN THE PHOSPHATE. YOU WILL GET AN EXCELLENT FINISH. PREPARATION IS THE KEY... IS CORRECT.
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