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Thinking of Selling PPK, A Few Questions.
JFlaten
Member Posts: 9 ✭✭
Ok, I am thinking about listing the below PPK for sale on the auction site. I have a few questions if you would be so kind.
Is there a way to tell the year?
What would a fair opening bid be? One that would entice bidders, but not be giving the gun away?
Any other suggestions?
Is there a way to tell the year?
What would a fair opening bid be? One that would entice bidders, but not be giving the gun away?
Any other suggestions?
Comments
Whatever you decide DO NOT use a reserve. If you are worried about not getting enough, then make your opening bid the least you would take for the gun. Alot of people will not even look at a reserve auction. When I search for a particular gun I first click on the No reserve option. That way I never even see the ones that do have a reserve.
My thinking on starting at a penny is that you will receive a good number of bids at first. A lot of times if there are two guns listed that are identical, then the one with the most bids will draw the attention of other bidders.
Hope this helps.
Good luck with your auction.
PS. Look at these pages. They show you what others have sold for on here. That way you can get an idea of a minimum opening bid if you need one.
You can also go to the smart search option and look up completed auctions to get more ideas.
I searched for Stainless models, I could not tell if yours was or is blued with light reflection in the photos.
Nice photos though.
Include alot of photos in your auction. This always helps.
http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=134933404
http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=141492518
http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=139065100
http://v4.beta.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=141831577
It could have been a German marked one or a Manhurin marked one. Depending on which, it could have affected the value.
As a shooter, I'm guessing about $300 range. Just a WAG on my part.
As another question: If it was imported, is the gun sellable if the importer markings were buffed off?
In terms of auction, I agree with the advice of starting the auction at one penny.
Do that and you can give yourself a free "plug" on the "General discussion" thread, which will certainly generate at least a few initial lowball bids to get the ball rolling:
a. You'll guarantee a sale, and
b. The final sale price will be about as close to the true market value of the gun as possible.
And actually I would be SHOCKED if you ended up getting less than $250 for this. Heck, I'd bid that myself right now. My guesstimate is more in the $350-400 range.
By the way, your pictures are good, but they COULD be bette.
The second picture is slightly out of focus. You can also see the reflection of your hand in the gun. . .though I'm not sure showing off the mirror-like bluing is a negative! The last image is a bit grainy, clearly a blow-up of the serial number. That's OK.
More pictures always helps. If you have a magazine, or any other accessories, it wouldn't hurt to take a picture of those too.
in spite of having the brand and Nazi markings & proofs removed.
It's possible the gun was a ruster that required heavy buffing to clean up.
This pistol has machined parts whereas modern reissues have investment cast parts.
Original parts are more durable.
It's a beautiful pistol but refinishing killed collector's value.
You might maximize the selling price by selling the grips separately and screwing on replacement grips.
This pistol has machined parts whereas modern reissues have investment cast parts.
Original parts are more durable.
Horsepucky!
Thanks
quote:Originally posted by v35
This pistol has machined parts whereas modern reissues have investment cast parts.
Original parts are more durable.
Horsepucky!
There may not be any functional difference at all (and in fact, modern MIM parts can probably be built to higher tolerances than older forged/cast parts) but I would still say forgings are more "desirable".
"They don't build them like the used to" still has some cache, I think.
All else being equal, and given the choice, which would you choose, a gun made from cast parts or one made from forged parts? I think most would choose the forged.
quote:Originally posted by rufe-snow
quote:Originally posted by v35
This pistol has machined parts whereas modern reissues have investment cast parts.
Original parts are more durable.
Horsepucky!
There may not be any functional difference at all (and in fact, modern MIM parts can probably be built to higher tolerances than older forged/cast parts) but I would still say forgings are more "desirable".
"They don't build them like the used to" still has some cache, I think.
All else being equal, and given the choice, which would you choose, a gun made from cast parts or one made from forged parts? I think most would choose the forged.
Horsepucky! Squared!