trigger for a Springfield model 52-a

338magnut

I have a single shot .22 Springfield model 52-A that has a hair trigger and would like to replace it. I have looked on our host GunBroker but can't find one. Also is there a way to hone back the sear where it is worn down on the trigger so it catch's the striker better. As always any info is appreciated.

charliemeyer007

Yes it's usually possible to fix. If bubba made it a hair trigger (seen that many times) you will likely need to add back material. If you want it to last then the new material needs to be at least surface hardened.

If it just naturally worn, then dressing the working surfaces could be enough. New square edge files or stones are my preferred tools. You need to retain the original angles or restore the proper geometry. Remove as little as possible to stay in the hardened material. If you make a jig a Dremel tool with a cutting disk can make a nice square cut. Not tilting or canting the file or stone on the stroke is an acquired skill. Practice on some scrap metal. Making a nested set of dovetails is good practice for hand tools work.

rufe-snow

+1, Sharpie pens are what I use, to insure that I'm either filing or stoning at precise right angles. Cheap and easy to us. In the past I have also used a high speed steel tool bit, as a filing/stoning guide. Key stock from the hardware store also will work.

The corresponding surface(s), on either the striker or hammer are sometimes also so worn, to be unrepairable. Specially if it's a inexpensive utility grade gun.

If this applies to your rifle? Mght be an exercise in futility trying to restore it?

338magnut

Info is appreciated I will probably keep looking for a replacement.

charliemeyer007

Get a good hand lens and inspect the working surfaces looking for sharp square edges on your parts. (added - It could just be dried crud preventing full engagement.)


Take the side plate off a S&W. Work the action slowly (thumb holding the hammer) and watch the working surfaces, to help you visualize the geometry. The working surfaces should slide off each other at 90 degrees each side making a straight line at 180. If it less than 90, then if act as a dove tail wedge and more pull is required. If it is more than 90 it acts as a ramp, requiring less pull up to the point where it will not stay cocked.

In you case the goal is to reestablish that proper geometry and enough surface to hold.

There was a post on a 1911 external hammer and sear jig using fitted pins. Most excellent design.

http://forums.GunBroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=663482&SearchTerms=1911,hammer

pip5255

if the trigger doesn't look like it is worn too badly then try replacing the trigger spring so it holds more tension.