Ruger no 1 question

hadjii

I have a newer Ruger no 1. A lipsey's special edition(I guess) in 25-06. Accuracy, so far is about what I expected(not what I hoped for), at about 1 1/2-2 inches at 100. Can someone tell me if I can install a hicks accurizer on this newer model no 1? Thanks in advance.

dfletcher

You can, it will fit. Whether it will help by itself is a bit of a crapshoot, there are dozens of tweaks for the No1. I've tried the Hicks, rubber spacers, bedding the forend and free floating, all with different results. The best for me is free floating the forend entirely, from the barrel and the receiver.

hadjii

dfletcher, I floated the barrel from the receiver completely. I'd say this was the first ruger I floated that didn't really make much difference. I was still getting 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch groups, but I think it might've made it more consistent than the factory bedding. I then glass bedded the barrel from the angle screw forward. The bedding is curing for a few days, and I'll try and shoot it Friday and see what I've managed to accomplish there. I'm hoping that will draw the groups down to an even 1 inch, and I'll be satisfied. No way can I make this no 1 shoot like any of my 77's, so I'm not even gonna try. I just want consistency, not miracles.

62fuelie

My #1B 25-06 is the most finicky rifle I own. It shoots the Winchester 120 Power Point or Open Tip sub-MOA as I do my part. If I try to feed it any lighter bullets the groups open up to 2+" and stay there. My 1B 22-250 will digest anything I give it from 45-60 grains and throw them all in the same hole, so go figure. On the 25-06 I have tried loosening and tightening the forearm bolt and even took it of and rested on the trigger guard and it didn't seem to make a difference.
FWIW

hadjii

62fuelie, my 25-06 is a no 1AH. Suppose to be a lipsey's 1 of 250 edition, which means nothing when it comes to accuracy. It's only been shot 13 times, all handloads, so it's in the beginning stages of experimentation, so well see where I end up.

Update: went out and fired 2-4 shot groups after I bedded the barrel. 1st 4 shot group @ 1 1/2" and 2nd 4 shot group @ 1 1/8". I think it's about as good as I'm gonna get it. Could put in a hicks accurizer, but I don't really want too very bad. I haven't heard of any really good aftermarket triggers other than a canjar, which is no longer made, and impossible to find any laying around. I'm gonna do some experimenting with different bullets to see what that yields, but, well, it shoots almost good enough. The test will be when I put it in the gun cabinet for a week or two, and then shoot it again to see if POI changes.

MIKE WISKEY

brownell's list the kepplinger single set #495100001 . if they have one

"Mike Whiskey, I checked Brownells. No such part no or no ruger no 1 triggers. Thanks anyway."

that's why I said "if"...I believe Kepplinger went out of business [|)], I have one of the triggers on a .375 h&h and they work well.

Geri

Used to be a web site that listed several thing to make the No 1 more accurate. One I recall was to remove material from the back of the scope base so it was not in contact with the receiver. This really made a difference on the Mo 1 B that I had. Dropped groups to about .700 at 100 yds. This rifle was very senetive to changes in bullet make or weight.
Still grouped good. Just had to re-sight after any change.

hadjii

Geri, what exactly would contact between scope base and receiver do to effect accuracy? Not trying to be a smart alec at all. Just curious to know because I've not heard of that before. I may try that after I try a different bullet. I'm using Rel 17 because it always gives me the best velocity as well as the lowest ES and SD.

Mike Whiskey, I checked Brownells. No such part no or no ruger no 1 triggers. Thanks anyway.

Geri

As I understand it. as the barrel heats up it effects the base causing it to shift a bit. The fix also used teflon tape under the front set of base screws and a tension screw under the barrel.
Recently had a Mod 70 classic that stopped grouping well. Found that one of the rear base screws was broken. (half the screw head was missing
Replacing the screw solved the problem. Owner was ready to rebarrel.
Seems every little thing effect accuracy.

hadjii

Thanks for the info Geri. Honestly, I don't know how far I'm going to pursue the accuracy of this no 1. It looks to me like the base is not touching the receiver. I think I'll take the scope off though, and check the base screws. The bedding job I did looks so purty, I hate to hack it up to install a hicks accurizer. It's never going to be anymore than a deer rifle, and 1 1/2" accuracy is good enough for that. If I want to shoot tiny groups, my 264 win m, ruger 77 will shoot 1/4" groups with swift scirocco or hornady a-max's as long as I can.

dfletcher

quote:Originally posted by hadjii
Geri, what exactly would contact between scope base and receiver do to effect accuracy? Not trying to be a smart alec at all. Just curious to know because I've not heard of that before. I may try that after I try a different bullet. I'm using Rel 17 because it always gives me the best velocity as well as the lowest ES and SD.

Mike Whiskey, I checked Brownells. No such part no or no ruger no 1 triggers. Thanks anyway.


The theory is that the scope base rib bolted atop the barrel, if it touches the front of the receiver, will cause the barrel harmonics to be not so ... harmonious? Maybe there's something to that, because nearly every No1 I've seen has a tad bit of space between the rear of that rib and the receiver front.

Much as I like the No1s the Winchester 1885 has always been much better to me. The forend is on a hanger bar, separate from the barrel.