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Springfield 1903

dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
edited September 2018 in Ask the Experts
I might have an opportunity to purchace one of these rifles from a co worker. He doesn't know how much he wants for it. What would be a fair price for the both of us. I don't want to rip him off, but I also don't want to pay a lot.I have seen other rifles in his collection and they are all in excellent shape, so I know that this one will also be in excellent shape. Thanks for your thoughts.
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  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    the other day i came acros a 1903 Springfield from Rock Island Arsenal: It was in fine mechanical condition - but with the bluing mostely gone.
    It had (long time ago) been made into a sporter, and now the old stock was broken and worn out.
    The rifle had 4 leaf rear sights instead af the normal military type tangent rear sight, and the owner was sure that was a early millitary type rearsight - Now the 1903 is actually rather scarce here in Denmark - and if the story bout the leaf rearsights was true, it coud be worth putting it back to "military standards"
    Ore???
    Regards

    Fluw
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  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hey everyone, picked up a 1903 the other day and was wondering if i could get a little information about this particular one.

    US Springfield Armory 1903.
    Barrel- S near front sight, and P underneath near bolt.
    Bolt- B
    Bottom of Action/Reciever- R, S, N
    Trigger Housing- S
    Serial Number-1358XXX
    Also has a Weaver 2.5 scope on it that says it was made in El Paso Texas.

    I just need a little info. on value and anything else from the parts that i listed that anyone has.

    Rifle is in Excellant condition, great bluing, and bright shiny bore.

    Thanks in advance,
    Kory
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  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I bought a Springfield 1903 (not an A3) and have a few questions -serial #1353508 with a re-barrel date stamped 8-44. I haven't looked it up on ProofHouse but on the bottom of the received just above the lug is written in black marker "1930 SA". I have an NRA sporter in the 128 range (1928) so I'm guessing 1930 is the year of manufacture.

    There are no markings on the stock other than an "AO" just behind the receiver lug cutout. The stock appears brand new and is bone dry. The upper forend matches and has 2 black metal reinforcing tabs.

    The receiver is stamped behind the receiver lug with "NS" and "J 100" and the bolt handle at the body is stamped "J6". There is a stamped metal front sight protector present. A 1907 sling is attached.

    The finish is not "green re-parked" or grey type but older blued phosphate type. The lower is milled, not stamped.

    I'm trying to figure out how "slapped together" the rifle is or if it is just re-arsenaled. The bore is perfect. I'm hoping to learn it was re-barreled, re-stocked, front sight hood attached at an arsenal and then left alone. I bought it as a shooter only though, so as long as it goes "bang" I'm happy.
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  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have the opertunity to get a Springfield 1903. I believe that the only thing done to it is that the stock (hand grip) has been removed after the first ring. Only the main stock is there. It still has the origional sites and the barrel has not been shortened. The date on the barrel is SA 6-09. The serial number matches this as it is in the 300,000. The trigger guard and plate looks like it was replaced. It is all one piece and does not open to remove the shells. I am guesing that this was changed in 1941 I there is a 41 on the stock behind the triger guard. I guess my question is that if I can get this rifle cheap enough is it possible to restore it. Would all I have to do (not saying it would be easy) is get the new metal (rings etc.) and new stock. I heard they may be a little dangerous to shoot if the serial number is less than 800,000. I really don't plan on shooting it I more just want it. So if anyone can help what would be a decent price to buy it for and what would it take to restore.

    Thaks,

    Tony
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  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I HAVE A SPRINGFIELD 1903 #12375x ((\)) AND IT ALSO HAS RA A BOMB AND 2-43 CAN ANYONE TELL ME MORE ABOUT IT ?

    What is the ((\)) after the serial number ?
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  • navc130navc130 Member Posts: 1,261 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    1930 production per Joe Poyer book. Cannot find AO inspector stamp. Sounds like a nice, clean rifle.
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  • TRAP55TRAP55 Member Posts: 8,292 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The year of manufacture for serial number 1353508 is 1930.

    All rifles recalled and rechambered for .30 caliber in 1906.

    Improved heat treatment started at 800,000.

    Introduction of nickel steel started at 1275767.

    Model 1903A1 rifles were made after 1929 with a full pistol grip type C stock, but were otherwise the same as earlier Model 1903 Rifles and marked Model 1903.
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  • nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,892 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I don't recall seeing a USGI replacement stock that did not have the manufacturer's code stamped in the magazine cutoff slot. And, an arsenal rebuilt rifle would normally be stamped with a proof P on the pistol grip, with an arsenal stamp elsewhere on the stock.

    Looking "dry" is not a problem; wood doesn't need to be oiled to preserve it. However, prolonged storage in a place with zero humidity will eventually destroy any wood.

    Parkerizing is a brand name for the phosphate process; it can be done in a range of colors, but I have never seen it blue. If every metal part is the same color, I would assume it has been commercially refinished.

    If you haven't checked the head space, it would be a good idea to have a gunsmith do so.

    Neal

    EDIT: BLO or tung oil should work fine. But, rub the wood with 0000 steel wool between coats, & after the final coat. In the US military, only drill rifles have a high gloss finish.

    [img][/img]zHPsQ5Q.jpg
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  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    ^
    I didn't think to look at the cutoff, will check it for mark. It's definitely not a commercial refinish - by "blue" I meant that it's a blue/black phosphate finish rather than the green I've seen.

    What's best for treating the stock? It's a great chunk of walnut with a touch of dark striping.
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  • kidthatsirishkidthatsirish Member Posts: 6,983 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    quote:Originally posted by dfletcher
    ^
    I didn't think to look at the cutoff, will check it for mark. It's definitely not a commercial refinish - by "blue" I meant that it's a blue/black phosphate finish rather than the green I've seen.

    What's best for treating the stock? It's a great chunk of walnut with a touch of dark striping.


    Boiled linseed oil or tung oil or flax seed oil has always been a standard choice for walnut stocks. I prefer the look of boiled linseed or tung myself with boiled linseed oil my favorite.
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  • dfletcherdfletcher Member Posts: 8,178 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    ^
    I thought BLO also, but for some reason am recalling reading to not use it? Maybe I'm misremembering, so to speak.
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  • charliemeyer007charliemeyer007 Member Posts: 6,572 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I really like LinSpeed which is a more refined grade of linseed oil.

    https://www.lin-speed.com/linspeed-instructions/

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/wood-finishes/gunstock-oil-prod8004.aspx
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  • perry shooterperry shooter Member Posts: 17,105 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    my go to for all kinds of items is a product by the name of ballistol

    it can be used on all metals' Leather 'rubber'all woods'safe on skin
    no carcinogens IT is great stuff will make gun stocks look great
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