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ruger 10/22 questions

supergirlsupergirl Member Posts: 3 ✭✭
edited November 2001 in Ask the Experts
I'm not gonna hide it: I'm a beginner, so is my dad. Hey, gotta start somewhere! I'm just warning everyone so they don't laugh when I say something off or in ignorance, k?I have a few questions. My first gun I just got a Ruger 10/22 not more than a few weeks ago. The first few shots were great. Next one jammed, took it out, next one jammed, next few fine, etc. I took it back to the guy, he oiled it and gave me a new clip; also said sometimes the factory over oils it for long shelf-life and that gun was right from the factory, no shelf life. Also gave some higher power ammo and said to use it to "break in" the clip. Now, I havn't used the more powerful cartridges he gave me yet, I fired it to see what it would do. First few shots were fine,but started jamming again. Anybody got any ideas before I call the guy up again? Also, another stupid question that needs an answer--I know you're not supposed to "ride" the bolt handle, but what happens if you do? My dad did it a few times, but isn't convinced it harms the gun. k, thanks for any input
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Comments

  • OrphanedcowboyOrphanedcowboy Member Posts: 351 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Was the ammo new, if so what brand? I find it hard to believe right out of the box this thing would jam like that. Give the gun a good cleaning, it may be just the opposite of what you were told, it could have to much lubricant/grease causing the gun to misfire/jam. Can you explain what you mean by riding the bolt?
    Orphanedcowboy@msn.com
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  • competentonecompetentone Member Posts: 4,696 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hello supergirl,Last question first: "Riding the bolt" when chambering a round really won't hurt a gun, but it may make it jam--by not allowing the bolt to "snap" forward, the round might not strip and seat properly in the chamber.As for the jamming itself--always difficult to diagnose without actually seeing how it's jamming. Sometimes firearms need a "break-in" period; freshly machined parts can sometimes contains burrs of metal that restrict smooth operation. The heavy factory oil issue, as you've already been told, could be a problem too. Read the owner's manual and see if you feel comfortable taking the gun apart and cleaning it.Trying different ammo, again as suggested, is good to do too. I find CCI brand ammo is best for most of my 22's. Go to Walmart and buy a box of CCI Stinger 22 ammo and see how that works.Also, if it jams, try to look at it carefully (BE CAREFUL, SINCE A JAMMED GUN IS STILL A LOADED GUN!) to see exactly what is hanging up--if you can give a description of what happens using the part names (found in the exploded view in the manual) it may make long distance diagnosis possible.Ruger's 10/22 is normally a pretty trouble-free gun, so I'm sure this can be solved.Joe
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  • s.guns.gun Member Posts: 3,245
    edited November -1
    If you are using name brand ammo.,there is a problem that needs fixed.Call Ruger and they will fix it.The salesman must be afraid to tell you that you have to send your brand new gun in to have it repaired.But that's the way it is with 3 new guns I,and two of my friends have bought in the last 2 years.We were all well satisfied with the results (all makers of quality guns)except a problem with Browning which did me out of a clip;plus the shipping and insurance ;for a total of $43.00
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  • taxijohntaxijohn Member Posts: 111 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    From what I hear, using a heavy OIL is not good for a ruger 10/22. Clean it well and try wd40, That's what I've use with no problems.
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  • prebanfanprebanfan Member Posts: 75 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I would say that there is a 95% chance that your problem is with the oil. Either too little or too much. You gotta really scrub down a gun good when you first buy it. Reach in the empty gun and see if the chamber feels sticky. If so clean it and then clean it again. If it feels like a big spray of wet WD-40 in there, swab it with some dry patches. It's a small area on a 22 so it's easy to over oil or under oil the chamber. I have seen this problem happen on 2 different occasions with the same gun you have. You don't want your oil runny and you don't want it sticky. Just a light film. Just make sure you have cleaned off all the old gummy oil and that it is completely gone or you will just put fresh oil over the gummy oil. Give it a really scrubing and I think your problem will be solved and it will shoot 1 right after the other, smooth as silk.
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  • REBJrREBJr Member Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Maybe I too can learn something here, I was taught that semi-autos had to be kept dry, I mean to say oil the bolt+ carrier, then wipe dry and re-assemble to prevent fouling and subsquent jamming. Everytime I leave my SA'a wet I foul and jam. Anyone else heard of this? Am I wrong?-Ralph
    Nothing very, very good or very, very bad lasts for very, very long.
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  • supergirlsupergirl Member Posts: 3 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Ok, I used American Eagle High velocity 22LR when it was jamming. The guy gave me Winchester super x to use(haven't had chance to yet). From what you've told me, it probably needs cleaning first of all. Ok, problem number 2: How much should I dissassemble it to clean it and what should I clean? Meaning, to what extent should I clean it? I read the manual and got as far as taking off the stock. (don't laugh!) I tried to push out the receiver pins, but they didn't come out. I figured you have to push really hard with something to get them out(duh), but don't want to break something or take them out if it's not necessary. Once I figure all this out I'll be able to do it in my sleep, but for now I'm still figuring it out. Hey I can't thank everyone enough!
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  • HAEDPULLERHAEDPULLER Member Posts: 46 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Try using something plastic like the back of an ink pen to push on the pins so you won't scratch your gun- they will go either way so don't be concerned about that. When a gun is new they are a little tight at first but if you just tap them with some object -it should not take much. Remove trigger unit and pin at back of reciever so bolt can be removed. Pull back bolt and lift front of bolt away from reciever to remove. It takes a little force. Clean everything with good solvent (Hoppes-etc) and stay away form WD-40- after sitting inside any machine or gun for a while it turns to goo and attracts dirt and dust. Get a synthetic lube made for guns like Hoppe's "dry lube" that comes in a spray can and you can get at Walmart- or something that will not gum up- Tetra Gun products are good. Don't overdo it- put some on any shiny area where the bolt and slide rub together. Putting the bolt back in is the hardest part becasue you have to get the cacking handle and bolt lined up just right- but you can do it. If gun still jams write the details of it.
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