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Colt 1911 man. 1918 New Pics. Added

MOONEDMOONED Member Posts: 936 ✭✭
edited October 2010 in Ask the Experts
Below are several pictures I took of a Colt 1911 manufactured in 1918. I recently bought it and would like to see what is thought of it's condition and originality. Feel free to through a "ball park" value on it as well.

Thanks,

Aaron


EDIT:
I doubt the new pictures I have added change much of the "prognosis", but I used far less lighting with them than the previous pictures.
[img][/img]IMG_02712.JPG
[img][/img]IMG_02707.JPG
[img][/img]IMG_02732.JPG
[img][/img]IMG_02748.JPG
[img][/img]IMG_02723.JPG

Comments

  • rufe-snowrufe-snow Member Posts: 18,650 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    It might be your photography lighting technique, but the finish looks way to highly polished to be original for a 1918 Colt military pistol, i.e. it's been reblued.


    Unfortunately if it has been reblued this would have a very negative affect on it's value to a collector of military 1911's.
  • cnsaycnsay Member Posts: 1,373 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Physical condition looks good, guessing it is reblued, finish too good for the little bit of rust showing.
  • perry shooterperry shooter Member Posts: 17,105 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The frame looks closer to original finish the slide looks refinished and buffed on picture 19 the top of slide with ejection port to the left there is a small divit that is blue all the way to the bottom IMHO this proves a REBLUE. The grips look Fake modern as TOO good of condition for 90plus years old. The barrel is the real Puzzle All colt barrels up to 710000 had the letter H at least in some place on chamber area. . TheP was only in the location and with top toward the muzzle between 60,000 and 375,00 but should have the letter H pointed in same direction but closer to the Hood. I cant find any mention to the letter R on a colt barrel[?] It may stand for REPLACEMENT but the size is wrong or at least not the same size as the P. the P and H are Proof marks ans inspected by Francis L. Hosmer . It bothers me this inspector mark is not there He inspected All WW I colts. . Worst case you have a parts gun made-up and made to try to deceive. The lighting on the pistol in photos is hard to judge TRUE condition or if original finish. Hands on may shed some light "pun intended" on this pistol . I would buy this pistol if the price was right just to get the frame and then sell the rest.
  • rufe-snowrufe-snow Member Posts: 18,650 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Several weeks ago a gentlemen posted photos of a Colt 1911 made during the late W W I years. It has what appears to me to be the original finish that the Colt factory applied. Compare the finish to the 1911 pistol your inquiring about.


    DSC04160.jpg



    DSC04159.jpg
  • GrasshopperGrasshopper Member Posts: 16,970 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I m a novice but as above statements,,looks refinished and the grips look to crisp without any wear,,,compared to the gun,,you must remember the true collectors will eat you alive if its not original.
  • nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,885 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Here's a website maintained by an advanced collector that shows what your gun looked like when it left the factory:

    http://www.coolgunsite.com/

    His photos also show what Perry Shooter is talking about, in regard to the barrel markings.

    Even though it's been refinished & had parts replaced, I would expect it to sell in the $1,000-$1,200 range if it were posted on the GB auction side.

    Neal
  • MOONEDMOONED Member Posts: 936 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Thanks all for the info. I paid a bit too much for this one, but if you knew some of the deals I have made this year, I guess every now & then you have to take a loss.

    Aaron
  • BergtrefferBergtreffer Member Posts: 629 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There are several comments about the lighting, and how different lighting makes the finish look different. I have done a fair amount of photography under various conditions of natural light, bright sunlight, overcast day lighting, indoor projected lighting of various sorts, and direct and bounce flash lighting. I recommend that if at all possible take the photographs outdoors in natural sunlight because it results in the best overall color balance and rendition.
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