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stock refinishing

rlfcjfrlfcjf Member Posts: 310 ✭✭✭
edited November 2001 in Ask the Experts
Any ideas on getting oil out of an older gun stock. I was refinishing a Rem. 1100 and when I stripped the stock,oil keeps bleeding out near the receiver end. I guess the guy that owned it before soaked it in oil!!!!! What about denatured alcohol??? HELP!!!!!
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Comments

  • rlfcjfrlfcjf Member Posts: 310 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a savage 67F in 12 gauge and I want to refinish the stock but I don't know for sure how to take the stock off and I don't want to tear into it and have piece flying all over any help would be great thanks[:p]
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  • rlfcjfrlfcjf Member Posts: 310 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I am going to refinish a stock that is checkered. How do I keep from getting too much finish (tru-oil) in the checkered areas or am I concerned when I shouldn't be? Thanks, Ken inOregon
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  • rlfcjfrlfcjf Member Posts: 310 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    last stock i refinished was a winchester lever action and i just used oil and a wax finish. turned out great, this rifle i want more of a shine to it. about the only products i know are varnish, spar varnish orpolyutherane (don't think i spelled that right) what do other gb members think
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  • rlfcjfrlfcjf Member Posts: 310 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I saw a post on here that made me remember this question. I have a Rem 1187 "Special Purpose" with the parkerized finish. IMO it's not all that pretty a gun, especially because the wood finish is pretty worn. I've thought about refinishing the wood. I'm pretty handy with wood, but never done a stock. I've been told if I sand off the finish I wont be happy with what's underneath because it is a "fake grain finish" and the wood itself has no grain. It's not a walnut stock. Any truth to this? How do you get around it? This is a gun I could experiment with, but I'd like it to at least come out looking better than it started.
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  • HerschelHerschel Member Posts: 2,035 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    There are linseed oil based compounds that produce beautiful finishes. They require lots of time and labor but the result is worth it. These should be available in gun shops or stores with large sporting goods departments. There used to be one that I believe was called Linspeed but I don't know if it still available.
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  • mbrookmbrook Member Posts: 128 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have had very good results with Tru-Oil. Easy to use and you can control the amount of shine by the way you handle the last few coats.
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  • ATFATF Member Posts: 11,683 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Brownells carried Linspeed a couple of years ago.I bought some.
    ATF
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  • Dancing BearDancing Bear Member Posts: 45 ✭
    edited November -1
    Give your oil finish time to dry and harden completely, I usually wait a week, wet sand it with 1500 grit wet/dry paper, then rub it out with a white polishing compound approved for clear coat finishes. Wax with a quality paste wax and put your sunglasses on.DB
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dogs.
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  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    I hate to put too much polyeurethane (I doubt I spelled it right either) on a gun as it makes it look slicker than a pair of cheap 1950's western cowboy spurs, but a little may be a good thing. Do your Linseed oil finish, then apply a very thinned out coat of poly as a last step, buff and wax.On the other hand, furniture wax- the oil based kind, especially jellied- can, with several treatments, yield very bright finishes.
    "...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conference in 1899.
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  • robsgunsrobsguns Member Posts: 4,581 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I use tung oil, Mini-Wax brand, its the most durable finsh I've used and I use it on everything wood that I refinish, furniture too. Its completely water proof, wont come off when it comes in contact with bug repellent like some finishes will, goes on easy and dries well, is easy to buff out to your desired taste, and is easy to touch up down the road when your stock gets 'hurt'. When applied correctly, you dont even need to buff it, it shines beautifully.
    SSgt Ryan E. Roberts, USMC
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  • 22WRF22WRF Member Posts: 3,385
    edited November -1
    I have stocks that have been refinished or just maintained with Casey's Tru-Oil.If you rub it in long enough and let it build up it will look like it is a varnish finish but much tougher and easier to rub a scratch out of. The secret is rub it in until your can feel the heat on your hand, no cloth just rub it with your bare hand. Over and over and over.
    Home of the Blue Angels, P'colaSemper Adveho AbsconditusFree Advice: "Never hold a dustbuster and a cat at the same time."Never miss a good chance to shut up (Will Rogers)
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  • lock stock and barrellock stock and barrel Member Posts: 91 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    go to riflestocks.tripod.comfor a good lesson in stock refinishing.
    "Unless the LORD guards the city, the watchman keeps awake in vain" Psalms 127:1
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  • roundballroundball Member Posts: 75 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil...refinished several Marlins and T/C Arms Hawken muzzleloaders...far more beautiful then factory finishes;1) Strip with "Stripeeze"...a furniture finishing stripping chemical...don't let it spatter on the skin, and certainly not the eyes...wear long sleeves and safety glasses;2) Wash off (and stop) the "Stripeeze" action with mineral spirits;3) Let wood bone dry in a warm house for at least a week;4) Don't apply any stains, just start the applications of Tru-Oil...it will bring out the beauty of the wood which sometimes gets covered up with stain;5) You'll need 2 or 3 or more coats depending on the look you ultimately want to acheive;6) Let each new coat bone dry in a warm place for at least a few days;7) Go over each coat very lightly with '0000' steelwool, wipe or blow off steelwool dust;8) Repeat above few steps till you have what you want...it's not really labor intensive, but you can't be in a hurry...thorough drying must be allowed for each step...enjoy
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