How Much to "Free Float" a Barrel?

salzo

I have a gun which someone suggested should be "free Floated". Can someone give me an idea how much such a procedure should cost? I have absolutely no idea how much such a procedure costs.

varmit hunter

salzo,If you are going to have it floated ,You should go ahead and have it piller blocked.I get both dun around here for a $100 or less.Realy tightens those groups.

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salzo

Thanks Varmit- Its not so much getting a tighter group. Its getting a group period that I am looking for. My first two shots with the rifle are X-rings. After that, the shots are all over the place. Someone said free floating can improve this dilemma.

sealyon

Have the same problem with a Win 70 in 7MM Mag. Floated the barrel and glass bedded the action and PRESTO-- still shoots like crap. Looking at changing the barrel now. Floating the barrel is just a matter of opening up the barrel channel from the receiver foward so that it doesn't touch the barrel. Take your time with some heavy grit sandpaper and float it out yourself. When your done you should be able to slide a dollar bill between the stock and the barrel. Good luck to you.

rick_reno

What kind of rifle is it? AR types have a sleeve they use; for a bolt action rifle with a wooden/synthetic stock the following should work.I free float them so that a dollar bill - folded in half once and wrapped around the barrel - will slide easily down the barrel. The procedure is to take the action/barrel out of the stock (usually a couple of screws) and then use a Dremmel/chisel/sandpaper/whatever to remove wood from the barrel channel in the stock. I use epoxy from Brownells to bed the action back into the stock. Use the dollar bill to check it before you start - your problem might not be stock touching the barrel. Check your action screws, making sure they are tight. If you've got a scope - check the mounting screws for it too.

salzo

The rifle is a tradewinds Husky 5000 .243. I have tightened all screws(scope, action) and still have a problem. I do know, that I cant even come close to getting a dollar bill(unfolded) between the barrel and stock.

jeenyes

Rick, are you saying the only place a barrel should touch is at the receiver and where a screw or band holds the thing together on the barrel. That it should not touch anyplace on the stock?I have a Win 70 heavy varmit in 308. Leupold scope, bipod ,barrel has a silver finish but it not stainless so I figure it a coating of some kind. Was put together by a gunsmith for a friend on mine who never fired it, I got it and was wondering if it had been floated, bedded or whatever. So what should I look for?

rick_reno

In general, you don't want the stock exerting pressure on the barrel. It's not always the case - sometimes you'll remove wood from that channel - shoot it and find you have to build it back up to get some pressure on the barrel. I first look at how they shoot, if they're shooting good as delivered - leave them alone. If the rifle is not shooting consistently - removing wood from the barrel channel is ONE thing to try. It's not the first thing I do. I did a quick web search on this subject and there is some good info out there on bedding (glass, pillar, etc). Try looking here http://riflestocks.tripod.com/

kaboom

If you float the barrel and it still doesn't shoot well try putting a shim made from cardboard or folded aluminium foil between the stock and barrel right at the end of the stock. Cut and try until you get just a little pressure on the barrel at that point. It doesn't always help, but it's easy to do and worth a try.

Orphanedcowboy

Sealyon, one suggestion before barrel swap, look at the action screws, they may be too tight, Model 70's can't handle the torque on the screws like a round bottom actions can, Remington and Dakota will withstand a considerable amount of torque, but Winchesters require a good snugging of the screws, I tighten mine like so: Front and rear screw snug then an extra 1/8 of a turn, middle snug then loosen an 1/8 of a turn, usually does it for me. You can also vary this as needed, but I usually find it works for me, when your at the range, play with the screws until you get the desired group and if it doesn't help, then get yourself a barrel.

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