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Reblueing

jeenyesjeenyes Member Posts: 330 ✭✭✭
edited December 2001 in Ask the Experts
I recently got a Crescent 12ga double. It is not pitted but has some surface rust and I would like to get it reblued. I have saw some around for $300- $400 in really good shape. I paid $31 for it needing a stock which I found for $35.What should I do to to the finish, blue or leave it alone?
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Comments

  • jeenyesjeenyes Member Posts: 330 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Have two S&W Revolvers. They did not have the best of care so the finish looks kind of bad. Would like to have then reblued. Noticed some manufactures have this service, but not S&W or I just missed it at their site.

    One I have not touched just cleaned up.

    One I pulled apart and have it almost all cleaned up. Made sure to not round corners and not to polish out any markings.

    So who has a link or place that does this service. My Stupid Search Function on my computer just changed and lists nothing.

    Thanks Duckhunter

    Which I could find someone local, but so far no such luck.

    Maybe found some. midwayusa.com list gunsmiths by location.

    justright58
    Thanks that is the type I'm looking for.
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  • woodsrunnerwoodsrunner Member Posts: 5,378 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I would leave it be. Odds are the $300-$400 ones you saw were pretty minty. I shoot old guns including doubles as a preference. I avoid reblued doubles. The chemicals used in reblueing are pretty caustic. I worry about that seam between the barrels and rib. I just have this paranoia about those chemicals getting in there and not getting washed back out. Also most reblue jobs now days are hot process, again I worry about the solder/brazing in that seam. I'd put the new stock on it, then I'd take it to my gunsmith who specializes in older guns. I'd have him look it over and make sure everything was ok. Then I'd take it out and enjoy it for what it is. A shooter to be shot with light loads. WOODS
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  • Der GebirgsjagerDer Gebirgsjager Member Posts: 1,673 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Woodsrunner is correct to worry about the seam where the barrels are joined. Most older shotguns, including Crescent, were joined with common solder. A hot caustic blue will attack the solder and desolve the tin resulting in two seperate barrels! Rejoining the barrels is an expensive job not done by most gunsmiths. If you must reblue, a Belgian blue involving hot water or rust bluing is the way to go. These methods are more labor-intensive than the regular hot blue and usually cost considerably more. Many amateurs have obtained satisfactory results using Brownell's Oxpho-blue, and you might look into that. It's easy to use, reasonably good results and appearance, fairly durable.
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  • jonkjonk Member Posts: 10,121
    edited November -1
    I would also leave it be. oil it well and use a gun brite pad or ultra fine steel wool on it to remove any surface rust. On the other hand, if the finish were totally wrecked, not just minor pitting, Naval Jelley will remove all surface finish and leave a rather attractive battleship grey finish in it's place. Apply and rub with steel wool, over and over and over...I have one of these myself, in 16 ga. Mine is in VG shape and was my great grandfather's. Fun gun. Good luck.
    "...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conference in 1899.
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