In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.

Brass shotgun shells

poackleypoackley Member Posts: 48 ✭✭
edited January 2002 in Ask the Experts
Have a bunch of brass shotgun shells. The head stamps are Remington and Winchester. The one takes 209 primers and the other takes either large rifle or large pistol primers. Can anyone give me information what powder to use and what components are required to shoot the shells? Are the shells worth anything? The shells appear to be once fired. There is no crimp on the shells.
[This message has been edited by poackley (edited 01-22-2002).]
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • poackleypoackley Member Posts: 48 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Does anyone sell loaded brass shotgun shells in BP? I know that Magtech has the cases but I havn't found any loaded rounds.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • AdamsQuailHunterAdamsQuailHunter Member Posts: 2,022 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    If you will e-mail me--then I will tell you how to reload them, provided you are going to use black powder or a black powder substitute such as Pyrodex or Clean Shot. If you are going to try to use a reduced smokeless powder charge -- then I do not wish to be a part of delaminating the barrels on a fine Damascus barreled shotgun at best---to much worse consequences.My e-mail is adamsqua@bellsouth.net
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • KnifecollectorKnifecollector Member Posts: 3,267 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I might be interested in buying a few of these shells if you want to sell any. Thanks. Robcrystal@skybest.com
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The Army issued these shells in the early 50s for guard duty in Korea. They could take lots of handling & cycling through the riot guns without getting buggered up as cardboard or plastic shells would.They were OO buck,had an over the shot wad and a faint taper crimp similar to a regular cartridge. The wads may have been lacquered. The wads were very durable and I never heard of any coming apart through the many loadings and unloadings that guard guns are subjected to.Since they have thinner walls, you may have to make your own wads. Unless they're ancientI wouldnt hesitate to shoot field loads. If the brass doesnt split, I would try high brass loads. Avoid resizing if you can. I would glue the top wad in and try a few without crimping to see if the shot stays put in the mag or second barrel while shooting.You may have chambering problems in a pump or autoloader.This brass is now collectable, so after you find out what they're worth you may not want to shoot them.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Country GunsCountry Guns Member Posts: 88 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I recently found a reloading kit that was made for brass shotgun shells. I would like to buy a few to have with the kit. Please e-mail information to me at dlkassing@iw.edwpub.com. Thanks!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • ClairClair Member Posts: 679 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Last year I saw 50 brass shotshells sold at a public auction. Someone paid a dollar each and thought he got a good deal.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • modocmodoc Member Posts: 474 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    He did get a good deal.I have them for sale and the old nasty ones go for a dollar each.I load them all the time in both black and smokeless.Use muzzle loading wads in them,but stay away from the lubed wads as they will, after a short time, bespoil your powder and then all you will hear is a sluute and the shot dribbles out the barrel.If you are lucky the wads exit also.Check each time for a stuck wad or you will be wearing the barrel as a neck tie.There are ways to size them,but once you shoot them in a given gun it will no longer be needed.Contact me if you need further assistance or Quailhunter.modoc----fatalbrt@cdsnet.net----
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • IconoclastIconoclast Member Posts: 10,515 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    PO - you have a mixture of dif types there. Some may be older BP, some military. If there are words such as "New Club" or other tradenames in the headstamps, they were unquestionably BP loads originally. Do *NOT* assume they are the military brass unless you have them examined / ID'd by someone who is more conversant w/ this material than you (no slur - if you knew you wouldn't be asking this question, which was a very smart thing to do). AQH offers good advice; the firearm in which you intend to use them makes a world of difference. There are a host of issues here, many of which have not been fully explored . . . proceed cautiously!v35 - JFYI, brass shells were issued as early as WW I along w/ M97 trench guns - to shoot grenades out of the air, although the troops soon found they worked wonders on bayonet charges as well. Some were issued as late as Vietnam. Basically these shells could have come from a variety of commercial / military sources spanning over 100 years and w/o more data, he could get into a lot of trouble if he's not careful. I hope I'm not coming across as a PITA, 'cause I don't mean to do that, but I become nervous when I see folks offering reloading advice in these forums because of the potential problems and the ATLA sharks.[This message has been edited by Iconoclast (edited 01-25-2002).]
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
Sign In or Register to comment.