Colt Python Repair ?'s

rballi

I found an old 6" Nickel 357 Python, according to the SN it was made in 1970. The finish is ok, no pits or rust, just some surface scratches that I'm sure could be polished out. It has rubber grips and... the bad news is that it's been hacked! This apparently had been someones competion gun and it's now kinda DAO. The hammer has been bobbed and a brass 'teet' was braised to the back of the trigger to stop single action cocking. I must say the action is smooth as glass as I compared to another Python. Also, I noticed the inside of the barrel has an unusual ring in it. I checked the outside and it seems to have a very slight raise in the barrel. The vents are not bent and the frame does not seem stretched, and the barrel to cylinder gap seems fine. Asking price is $375. What do you think? I priced the barrel at about $120, the trigger about $30, and the hammer (which nobody seems to have in stock) about $65. Gunsmith work, well, is negotiable. How much should I worry about the barrel ring?

nmyers

About 2 years ago I helped a friend buy an older nickled Python "beater" that was in better shape than the one you describe for $150. After paying $350 (includes 2-way shipping Next Day Air) to the best gunsmith for this type restoration (Pittsburgh Handgun, 412-766-6100), he now has a beautiful gun that works flawlessly.

There have been several engineering changes made to the Python over the years; some small parts are unique to the early ones, and may be difficult or impossible to locate. Colt is notorious for their poor parts inventory.

You've listed a lot of expensive parts that need replacement. There likely will be others. And no, scratches cannot be polished out; nickle is not like stainless steel.

I'm thinking $75-100 would be a fair price. But, it's your money.

Neal



Edited by - nmyers on 10/30/2002 16:48:44

v35

If I understand you, the trigger has the S.A. feature disabled by a drop of brazing rod. The brass stop can be filed off so you may not have to replace the trigger. Do you know if the S.A. sear notch is ground off the hammer? You can have a piece of 3/8 round rod welded or brazed to your hammer to form a ring style hammer spur.
It would be nice to save that good trigger job by not replacing these parts.
The big issue for me would be how much barrel has to be cut off to get rid of the ring if the barrel doesn't shoot well. If it will clean up over 3'', I'd rework it.
Sportsmans Guide has listed some inexpensive Colt barrels in the past so check with them.

hunter7737

Buy it. Replace barrel and hammer. You will be happy with it.

RancheroPaul

Some awful nice Pythons seem to sell from time to time in the $600 to $700 range. Let's see here.....Gun=$375, Barrel=$120, Trigger=$65, which is now a total of $560.00. That doesn't include any Labor at all.

If it were me, I would find me a nice one for another $140 and have it ready to go......and no problems to deal with. But, you may like to go through what it takes to do something and maybe the process is worth more to you than the "Result!"

Finding parts for a Colt Revolver is a lot harder than it sounds. First of all, Colt hardly ever had any parts to begin with. They haven't made any for revolvers since 1999, almost four years ago. I would hate to be looking for something major now days! Good Luck!

Fish Shudder at the sound of my Name!

rballi

Well, I went ahead and jumped in with an agreement that if it doesn't group, I can bring it back or rework the deal. According to the owner the gun shoots good. I know the guy, we trade alot, and he would not BS me. I ended up getting the gun for a 30-30, 303 sporter, (both truck gun quality)and $50. I'll try and shoot it today with wadcutters, jacketed, and HP's. If it shoots good, I might just keep it as a beater Python (oximoron?) and be forced to practice my double action shooting skills. The action on this gun makes my other Pythons seem like they are filled with sand.

I dug out one of my old Sportsmans Guide catalogs and found the Colt Barrels; they are $20 but no Python barrels.

rballi

Shot it at noon today after my gunsmith took a look at it. He gave it his blessing and let me shoot it at his indoor range. I started with 1 test fire shot behind a wall, no blood, no lead spit, gun still in one piece. Loaded up a cylinder of 38 148gr wadcutters and shot at 12 yds and kept them within 2"-2.5" free hand. Examined the gun, no problems. Loaded up a cylinder of 38 158gr FMJ, same result. Tried some 38+P Hollow points, no problem either. I did not try 357's in it. I had the gunsmith try it out two cylinders downrange and said everthing seemed fine and said 357 should not hurt it. I like it and probably will keep it. He said that if I do ever decide to get a barrel, to first let him cut and crown this one to a 4" and see if I like it.

v35

You lucked out on the barrel. If that barrel will finish up to 4", I'd do it providing it can be done reasonably.
Four inches is an ideal revolver barrel length and you'd retain the s/n. I would see if the S.A. feature can be restored without replacing trigger or hammer and also weld a ring on the hammer so the S.A. can be used. I've got a ring hammer on one of my revolvers that doesn't snag on clothing as the tang style does.
Far from being a beater, this sounds like a bargain in a quality
combat revolver with a trigger job.

wacowt

Should you decide to replace your barrel, I have a 4" one very reasonable. Good luck!

rballi

Pics of the gun.


http://groups.msn.com/rballipics/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=325

http://groups.msn.com/rballipics/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=326