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ar15 how to ?

ak47-sksak47-sks Member Posts: 86 ✭✭
edited February 2002 in Ask the Experts
how do i remove the lower pin out of the block they put in. the pin is located right below the safty and it is drilled only on one side. the lower half is filled with crud and i would like to clean it out thanks

Comments

  • Mr. LoboMr. Lobo Member Posts: 538 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    The pin should just push out. It is drilled all the way and just has a larger head then the hole on one side. I have been told to leave the trigger assembly alone. Do not try to remove just clean in place. Hope this helps.
  • cpermdcpermd Member Posts: 5,273 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Below the safety selector?Is this a Colt with a sear block?If so it takes a machine shop and some $$.cpermd
  • Mr. LoboMr. Lobo Member Posts: 538 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I have a Bushmaster so my education on the Colt is limited.
  • ak47-sksak47-sks Member Posts: 86 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    yes its a colt sporter mhbar with the sear block i cant evan seem to punch out the top pin im afraid that i will damage it what about putting a little heat on the sear block not the gun has anybody ever tried that
  • cpermdcpermd Member Posts: 5,273 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    DO NOT F#%K with itIt is designed to destroy the receiver if you hammer or mess with it.If you want it out,a machine shop needs to mill along the inside wall and then knock the tapered pin from the inside.cpermd
  • buddybbuddyb Member Posts: 5,368 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Spray the crud with carburator cleaner and blow it out with compressed air.
  • BlancheeBlanchee Member Posts: 11 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    I'd dynamite that sucker out I agree with bubba, go for the carb cleaner.
  • erictheredericthered Member Posts: 244 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    When I was in the drill team at college and we had to clean M-14s' we had a system that is really easy. First you remove all parts that can be. If you have obviously reachable parts left, in other words, not contained within themselves and completely inaccessable, you can SOAK the thing with wd-40, leave it for awhile, then use extemely hot soapy water and toothbrush or anything that will get in there, blast that out with extremely hot pressurized water, blow it, shake it out as best as possible. The best system at this point is a really hot sunny day to burn out the water. If not a possibility then dip in in kerosine and flood it over and over until all the water has been simply flooded out, soak in WD 40 or any oil you like to flood out the kerosine, dry out all excess as best you can. I know it sounds funny, but water is not a problem if you have a system to get rid of it when done. Removing things like the stock and main spring would be necessary.It may sound complicated, but the idea is to simply displace each fluid with one that can do it. Hot soapy water, and high pressure water do wonders in places too hard to reach but not where there are self contained traps that you will never know if you got the water out or not. You need to be able to see the areas that will receive the water. Hope that helps.Eric
  • kdkaiserkdkaiser Member Posts: 5 ✭✭
    edited November -1
    Don't use "carb cleaner" use brake cleaner or electric-motor contact cleaner.Carb Cleaner can eat some finishes..Been there, done that.KK
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