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Stock oil
Gene248
Member Posts: 358 ✭
This is great stuff:
New walnut stock finished with it:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Emerfudg/Garand/?action=view¤t=c5928d57.pbw
New walnut stock finished with it:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v637/Emerfudg/Garand/?action=view¤t=c5928d57.pbw
Comments
http://www.lin-speed.com/
Grumbacher's Pale Drying Oil is available at most Artists Supply Stores and many Hobby Stores such as Hobby Lobby.
Thanks for the assistance,
Gene
Linseed and other, what they call vegetable drying oils, dry by a chemical process in which the oil absorbs oxygen from the air and forms chemically with it to make a substance called linoxyn, which is what makes the dry film of oil paints and varnishes. This drying process can be accellerated by the addition of chemical dryers, or the simple exposure to direct sunlight in the presence of air. Exposure to direct sunlight will also bleach oil soaked wood that has gotten too dark. However, if you live in Florida or the Southwest, you have to be careful when exposing a wooden object to dry in the sun, that the wooden object does not get too hot and "cooks" the oil.
"Half & half boiled Linseed Oil and Turpintine, for a hand rubbed finish, apply once a day for a week, once a week for a year, once a year from then on."
The Turpintine lets it soak in and helps it dry. Put in on and rub it in, the more you rub it, the more shine you can get.
W.D.
Please do not use mineral oil on your redwood. You will have a disaster because mineral oil never dries. It will seem so because it will sink into the wood and the wood will weather anyway. Then, any coating that you attempt to put on the wood after that will not adhere properly. It will soon flake and peel off in an unsightly manner.
The only thing appropriate to put on your Redwood is Boiled Linseed Oil. Boiled, now Raw. Raw linseed oil takes :"forever and a year" to dry and darkens considerably with age. Boiled darkens somewhat, but nowhere near that of Raw Linseed oil.
For the best application, start by mixing the oil 1:1 with gum spirits of turpentine, and apply with a roller. Yes, turpentine stinks like hell, but it accellerates the drying of the oil.
If your wife bitches about the smell, you can substitute mineral spirits for the turps, but your drying time of the oil will be a bit longer.
I further suggest that you find the paint store in your area where the professional house painters buy their stuff. There, you will be able to buy everything you need in 5 gallon cans, and the price will be less than what you would pay at your neighborhood hardware store. One last thing: depending on how weathered your wood is now, you might consider adding a wood stain of appropriate color to your oil. To find out how much to use, buy a piece of redwood plank and test out various mixtures of stain and oil on it until you have something you like. Remember, something that appears too dark in a small sample will appear light when in a large area.
As for my qualifications, I worked as a paint chemist in a paint laboratory for over 20 years. Good luck with your project.