In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.
help needed; browning a5 shell ejection
truegger
Member Posts: 12 ✭✭
Hi
I recently bought a 1964 Browning a5 light 12 gauge shotgun. It is designed for 2.75 inch shells. I've used it to shoot a couple rounds of trap and it appears to automatically eject the spent shells only about 10% of the time. I've checked the positions of the bronze friction piece and the friction ring and they are in the correct positions for "light loads". I've tried both 1 oz and 1 1/8 oz loads and had the same result with both. I've oiled the action with proper gun oil and still have the problem. I'm not that familiar with A5s and would appreciate any help you can offer.
Tony
I recently bought a 1964 Browning a5 light 12 gauge shotgun. It is designed for 2.75 inch shells. I've used it to shoot a couple rounds of trap and it appears to automatically eject the spent shells only about 10% of the time. I've checked the positions of the bronze friction piece and the friction ring and they are in the correct positions for "light loads". I've tried both 1 oz and 1 1/8 oz loads and had the same result with both. I've oiled the action with proper gun oil and still have the problem. I'm not that familiar with A5s and would appreciate any help you can offer.
Tony
Comments
Use a coarse rag and bore solvent to scrub it clean. You can tell it's clean if you can rub it with a white paper towel with no dark smudges. To oil it use three or four drops of quality gun oil on a bore patch and then use another clean patch to wipe off any excess.
You will need to do the same with the bronze friction piece.
And yes, to much oil will affect function also.
btw, what is the dram equivalent of the load you are using? Is it a true trap load, or a field load such as a dove and quail load?
edit: I just had a thought.
Just as the 1911 will fail if "limp wristed" the A5 will fail to function if not handled properly. It must be held firmly into the shoulder pocket. Some of the softer recoil pads will also compound the problem.
edit: since there seems to be some confusion.
Depending on the load used the friction ring is not just flipped but also moved.
For high pressure loads it goes between the end of the spring and the friction piece with the flat face to the spring. The reason for this is so the inner bevel will ad more compression to the friction piece.
For low pressure loads the friction ring goes between the spring and the receiver face where it will have no effect on compression of the friction piece.
YYMV, but this is my thoughts on how it is placed against the receiver as to bevel toward or bevel away.
Since the steel of the spring is harder than the steel of the friction ring I place mine with the bevel toward the receiver to prevent the spring from damaging the surface of the bevel which could affect it's action on the friction piece. Again, YMMV.
I'll try it again next weekend and post the results. Thanks again to all for the inputs.
Caution, the A5 is a fairly complicated gun.
for heavy loads, the flat side does go to the receiver. FOR LIGHT LOADS..... THE BEVELED SIDE GOES TOWARDS THE RECEIVER....i have done this ENUFF to know
Yes, you are correct. Don't know how I wrote the opposite above. I have the lower ring positioned for lighter loads.