22-250 barrel erosion -

gmoore

I'm interested in getting a 22-250, but have heard that there are issues with barrel erosion. This is probably keeping me from buying one used, and may convince me to buy a .223 instead - new or used. Is this still a problem with modern barrels ? If so, does shooting a slightly reduced load help ? I plan on reloading, so that is an option. If the barrel gets hot, is that a concern ? I plan on varmint shooting with it -Thanks in advance -Greg Moore

JustC

A 220 swift is the one which erodes the fastest. I have seen plenty of 22-250's and have seen no real problem with erosion. I would get one in stainless which lasts longer and is easier to clean. The handloads can help to reduce wear due to the fact that the max load doesn't USUALLY group the best. I would have no worrys at all about buying a 22-250.

hunter280man

I would have to agree with JustC on this one. I know of seversl people who have the.22-250, and all love it,I wish I owned one instead of my .223. Alright, with my .223! just the same, I'ts one of the best in my opinion...

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The older I get, The better I was!!!

gmoore

Thanks guys - 22-250 is my leaning, but I really don't want to have to re-barrel ever if I can help it. I have been looking at Remington 700 VLS, Tikka Continental (.223), Model 70 Winchester - any advice on others or guns to stay away from ?

JustC

every caliber will need to be rebarrled if shot enough. Unless you practice for benchrest competitions with hundreds of high powered rounds per month, you shouldn't have a problem. Sight it in, learn it's adjustments for range, work the load and forget about it. You will have it in 20yrs.I want the 700vss myself.

gmoore

Do you mean the 700 vs sf ? I see a VS that is a synthetic stock, blued steel model and a VS SF that is a fluted stainless synthetic. I think I would rather have the weight of the full barrel instead of the flutes.

JustC

I would like the VS SF. I would have agreed with you about the full barrel until I got my Sendero in 7mm mag. It shoots one ragged hole at 100yds and less than 1" at 200yd. The fluted barrel can handle the 7mm mag with great accuracy, I have also shot the same rifle 150yds in 300 Ultra Mag. It too grouped less than 1". That tonnage of steel, that comes on the Sendero and other bull barrel rem's is more than enough. The 22-250 will not provide enough pressure to affect either barrle type. That's my .02 from experience with the bigger versions. Plus the stainless wears less, is easier to clean, and will be worth more IF you ever decide to trade or sell. Like I said, just my .02. Good luck, they are great guns.

gmoore

Thanks. I am still not sure if I want to go SS or not - that is probably going to be price driven, so we'll have to see. I did find a really nice, clean Sendoro in 22-250 - I noticed they don't currently offer that chambering, but the owner claims it is only a couple years old. Must be very similar to the current VS SF.This may be a bit premature, but what can you tell me regarding barrel break in ? I have had it recommended to me that the bore should be cleaned between each of the first 10 rounds. Anything different or to add from your perspective ?Greg

gmoore

Thanks. I am still not sure if I want to go SS or not - that is probably going to be price driven, so we'll have to see. I did find a really nice, clean Sendoro in 22-250 - I noticed they don't currently offer that chambering, but the owner claims it is only a couple years old. Must be very similar to the current VS SF.This may be a bit premature, but what can you tell me regarding barrel break in ? I have had it recommended to me that the bore should be cleaned between each of the first 10 rounds. Anything different or to add from your perspective ?Greg

JustC

When I break in a new barrel, I will clean between the first 10, then every 3 rnds for the next 50 or 60. Then every 5, up to about 100-150 total rounds fired. Remember to use a good bore cleaner, I use shooter's choice, it is strong but leaves the metal looking shiny(not like some other brands which make it look almost "dry"). Don't spend lots of time working a brush, just a couple of strokes and patch it dry. Some of the microscopic particles of copper will find their way into the pores of the metal and actually create a better gas seal between the rifling and bullet. Sounds funny but that is what several very reputable gunsmiths and benchrest shooters taught me.If it is a good deal, get the Sendero your buddy has. Save the money you would spend on new, if he took care of it, it will be fine.

gmoore

Unfortunately, the Sendoro is an online auction and I have no idea if it has been taken care of or broken in the way you describe. That seems like a pretty involved process for break in - is the process different for stainless than for blued steel ? Do you shoot factory loads duning this period, or are reloads alright ? And I am guessing that moly bullets probably don't work for break in - they need to be conventionally jacketed ? Thanks for all of your information - it really has been helpful. Greg

JustC

I usually do this for any new barrel. Most of my recent endeavors have involved custom barrles and after I invest $450 for the barrel and machine work to have it matched to my receiver, cut, and epoxy pillar bedded in a stock, I want them to be the most perfect that they can be. I would still do this with ANY NEW gun. I even use bore butter and clean for the first 50 shots in a muzzleloader. It is time consuming but if it does nothing else but giving you confidence in the gun, then that is enough. Some guys who are confident in their gun will always outshoot the beginner next to them with a high dollar rig that he has no idea how to use or break in properly. The break in process will help it last longer and shoot straighter. I don't like moly coated bullets. I will probably catch grief for that but I DO NOT use them. I experimented with them and found that they group great, AT FIRST. Then the moly starts to actually build up in the grooves and if you take the bolt out and look through the barrel, you can see tiny little balls of the coating forming on the lands where each succesive bullet scrapes it from the rifling as it passes. This creates a tight spot when the bullet has to pass through this area of build up which will throw off the balance of the bullet and cause it to be less stable once it hits the air. I amsure you will now be flooded with people saying how wrong I am or how great it works for them. Like I said, this is MY EXPERIENCE with moly coating. I shoot during regulated seasons or crop damage permits ALL YEAR LONG. I shoot thousands of rnds per year. If I were going to shoot 3-5 shot groups in competition, I may use the moly as it shoots great until build up occurs.Then it slings the bullets and opens up the groups. Hope this all helps, let me know of any help I can be. Good luck with the Remington bull barrel guns in the H&S stocks, they are beautiful shooters right out of the box. They seem to like Core-lokt bullets on the cheap side and federal premium balistic tips on the higher end. Also, have the trigger turned down to as light as it will go (probably 2-2.5lbs), you will see an improvement.I would not use handloads until she is broken in, it is a waste of time and money. Break her in right, then find her recipe.[This message has been edited by JustC (edited 02-07-2002).]

coyote-man

The 22-250 will probably wear out faster by not cleaning the barrel proper. The use of a bore guide is the proper way to go to keep from wearing away the throat. Stainless barrels do last longer, but, are more prone to "cracking" in the throat area when using a solvent of high concentration of amonia. Amonia is very damaging to Stainless Steel, so just carefull how & what product is used.I have on order a new 22-250 right now with a new Shilen Slect Match barrel being put on my Rem. 700 action and no Moly bullets will be put thru it or solvent containing high concentration of amonia.Good Luckcoyote-man