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hey wfk???
JustC
Member Posts: 16,056 ✭✭✭
I would like to know the outcome of your investigation into the keyholing issue with your rifle. I have only experienced it once in my shooting and that was a 300gr barnes red hot 50cal slug in a rem700ML with 2 pyrodex pellets. Gave the rest of them away to someone else.
As far as the crown goes,..you should be able to see any knicks in the crown by eyeing it. If the outer ring which makes the solid circle around the bore is damaged, you'll see accuracy loss. If the crown is cut ANY way BUT perpendicluar to the bore,..it will cause accuracy loss. My question would be did the rifle ever group since new? if so,.and there are no knicks or dings in the crown face,..then you can rule that out right away. Because,..if it grouped at one time,.and there is no crown damage,.then there is no crown issue. Now,.if the first 2-3 inches of rifling are eroded (determined by SLOWLY pushing a patch from the breech through the bore) you will feel the patch drag slightly and then smooth out as it hits the smooth potion of the bore. If this is the case,...you need a new barrel. Factory take-offs can be had for that rig for around $45 on some want adds on some forums. I am doubtful that you if you feed that rig a pill that was too long or too heavy (and/or/both) that it would keyhole at 100yds. If they are too long,.they will usually give poor accuracy or slightly destablized holes,...but a sideways impact on more than even one round points to a serious problem. Did you Mic the bullets? are they a REAL .257dia? A 6mm pill can find it's way into the .257 production line more than you would care to think. They can be labled wrong as well.
as far as freebore,..I would only question that in a weatherby rifle as they are famous for having canyon sized voides between the bullet and the rifling (not a theory I subscribe to to but many others do). I'll gain my velocity by seating to the lands and using slower powders instead of max loads with a head start at the rifling[V]
TRAP55,..I think you covered it all in your post[;)][8D]
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
Got Balistics?
As far as the crown goes,..you should be able to see any knicks in the crown by eyeing it. If the outer ring which makes the solid circle around the bore is damaged, you'll see accuracy loss. If the crown is cut ANY way BUT perpendicluar to the bore,..it will cause accuracy loss. My question would be did the rifle ever group since new? if so,.and there are no knicks or dings in the crown face,..then you can rule that out right away. Because,..if it grouped at one time,.and there is no crown damage,.then there is no crown issue. Now,.if the first 2-3 inches of rifling are eroded (determined by SLOWLY pushing a patch from the breech through the bore) you will feel the patch drag slightly and then smooth out as it hits the smooth potion of the bore. If this is the case,...you need a new barrel. Factory take-offs can be had for that rig for around $45 on some want adds on some forums. I am doubtful that you if you feed that rig a pill that was too long or too heavy (and/or/both) that it would keyhole at 100yds. If they are too long,.they will usually give poor accuracy or slightly destablized holes,...but a sideways impact on more than even one round points to a serious problem. Did you Mic the bullets? are they a REAL .257dia? A 6mm pill can find it's way into the .257 production line more than you would care to think. They can be labled wrong as well.
as far as freebore,..I would only question that in a weatherby rifle as they are famous for having canyon sized voides between the bullet and the rifling (not a theory I subscribe to to but many others do). I'll gain my velocity by seating to the lands and using slower powders instead of max loads with a head start at the rifling[V]
TRAP55,..I think you covered it all in your post[;)][8D]
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
Got Balistics?