How to get scope base screws out of action?

4406v

I am trying to remove old Redfield bases from my 700 Remington.The allen screws are really tight and I don't want to strip them or break them off in the action.They may be loc-tited in (I did not mount the scope)

I tried to use a soldering gun to heat the screw head up but they wouldn't budge.I don't want to use a torch and screw up the bluing.

Can I use boiling water? Or do you have another suggestion?

MG1890

440, I tried to email you, would not go thru... It's "undeliverable".

I like a hex bit with a shank to fit a screwdriver handle. Then tap the bit into the screw head with a hammer. Usually then you can turm them out.

charliemeyer007

212 degree water isn't likely to work any better than 400 - 800 degree soldering iron IMHO.

There are things that Bubba could have used that essentially weld the screws in place.

You should prepare yourself for cost of new tapped holes via a Forster jig with cobalt bits. Ask your local gunsmith.

http://www.forsterproducts.com/store.asp?pid=24833&catid=19938

62fuelie

When you apply the penetrating oil put the allen bit in the socket and tap it lightly with a mallet. Do this every couple hours and it will help the oil marinate the threads a little better - don't be shy with the oil, but be gentle with the tapping, you're just helping gravity not pushing the oil down.

perry shooter

all good suggestions Kroil soak for 24 hours or more. Then if you have the use of a Milling machine but the best quality Allen head 1/4 inch drive bit you can find put action in padded milling machine vice with the milling machine put bit into chuck now crank in down pressure to hold the bit from backing out then by hand try to turn the chuck . If tis fails you have the milling machine indexed so remove hex bit and install a small drill bit and re-tap the hole.

MIKE WISKEY

If all els fails, (they are allen head screws, right?) drill the screw head out with a #31 drill bit just deep enought to remove the head. you can then remove the base and grab the remaining screw shank with a good vise grip.

260

A++++quote:Originally posted by MIKE WISKEY
If all els fails, (they are allen head screws, right?) drill the screw head out with a #31 drill bit just deep enought to remove the head. you can then remove the base and grab the remaining screw shank with a good vise grip.

asphalt cowboy

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-5-Piece-Soldering-Iron-Kit/dp/B005HY02FW/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1364393731&sr=8-14&keywords=soldering-iron

I've used a cheap soldering iron such as the one above to heat screws. I also use a Lohmman Site Vise, but you can use a small cardboard box with a v notch cut out of the top.

Turn the barreled action upside down and prop the action up with the screw head on the soldering iron. I just stand the SI on it's handle on the table. This way you're not stuck standing there waiting, and waiting, for the screw to get hot. Once the screw is hot drip a bit of Kroil on the opposite end of the screw if possible. What this does is the oil cools the screw and wicks/draws the oil down into the threads where it needs to be.

It helps a bit if you grind/file the soldering iron tip flat for more contact surface against the screw head.

tsr1965

I don't mess around with the screws that are stuck like that. I use a very fine tipped oxy/acetylene torch, with a very light reducing flame...not a harsh cutting flame. I hit the screw head for a second and try it, never turning the metal colors. This puts the heat there quick, and results in faster removal, and less chance of damage to the rest of the action.

If this does not work, then I drill, or Dremel off the screw heads, take the base off, and work with the screw stubs.

Best

Stout Shooting

Try heating it up hot enough to let wax melt into it.Then let it cool a little. It will normally screw out easily.