S&W trigger pull ?

260

in my quest to reduce the DA trigger pull on a J frame revolver ... would i be correct in my thinking to change the rebound spring?

charliemeyer007

That would be a good start.

Txs

The rebound spring primarily effects SA pull. In DA it supplies very little of that heavy resistance you're feeling. In this mode it's almost all hammer spring compression.

That being said, if this gun is used for defensive purposes I'd recommend against monkeying with the hammer spring out of concern for reliable primer ignition. J-frame triggers are far from the lightest, but with most anyone this can be dealt with through practice-practice-practice. In DA a smooth trigger pull and the ability to operate it this way is what's really important.

Caliber, bulk, weight, etc. are all points to consider when it comes to a defensive gun, but the quality it MUST have is the ability to fire each and every time the trigger is pulled.

If it's not a defensive gun, I'd suggest a Wolf spring kit. Their engineered balance of reduced power hammer and rebound springs does make quite a bit of difference with a J-frame.

EDIT:

quote:Originally posted by SP45
when pulling the trigger in double action you are compressing the rebound spring which you know pushes the trigger back into position after each shot. so the rebound spring does affect the double action trigger pull quite a bit.That's it's function and true that it's compressed when the trigger is moved to the rear, but comparatively it's resistance is nowhere near that supplied by the hammer spring.

To avoid trigger return problems S&W rebound springs shouldn't be shortened more than 2 coils below their factory issue 17 coil configuration. Trimming only two coils from that spring will cause a negligible difference unless you also install a lighter hammer spring.

Just clipping coils from a S&W revolver's rebound spring is the classic Bubba kitchen table 'action job'. It creates issues he won't realize until the first time he tries rapid firing the gun. [:0]

SP45

when pulling the trigger in double action you are compressing the rebound spring which you know pushes the trigger back into position after each shot. so the rebound spring does affect the double action trigger pull quite a bit. the hammer spring provides tension to the hammer and forward thrust so that it hits and ignites the primer. replacing the rebound spring with a lighter spring can be done as long as it is thoroughly tested for reliability. if it is to light it will not reset or you can start short stroking the trigger. remember the function is to reset the trigger but also to engage the primary safety where the safety seat on the hammer meets the top of the rebound slide. if you lighten the hammer spring the primer may not go off and there can be a big variation in primer hardness. it might work great with federal but not CCI. kthe factory has a little jig with a dial gage that you use for exact poundage. the field uses a rod of specific weight which you put down the barrel and in single action see how far it moves for reliable ignition. everything is a balancing act and what you do on one end may affect the other so approach it carefully. If you are not completely sure of what you are trying to do it is best to contact someone who does know and not just talks about it. good luck.

62fuelie

While it does not "lighten" the trigger pull, a thorough stoning of the interior bearing surfaces will do a great deal to smooth the pull. This does make the pull easier to manage. A'smith familiar with this process is the best and safest approach to any modification to a pistol you may have to rely on in an emergency. Wolff makes spring kits for the J frames and you can use one of their rebound springs to achieve the lightest RELIABLE reset of the trigger, we used to cut coils off, but once you cut a half coil too far it is real hard to stick it back on. As above, I wouldn't recommend reducing the mainspring pressure.