In order to participate in the GunBroker Member forums, you must be logged in with your GunBroker.com account. Click the sign-in button at the top right of the forums page to get connected.

m1 carbine malfunction

jager22jager22 Member Posts: 197 ✭✭✭
edited May 2002 in Ask the Experts
i have a universal m1 carbine that stove pipes the spent brass almost every shot.. i have tried different ammo i keeps doing the same thing..any advice on a possible solution??
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • jager22jager22 Member Posts: 197 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Shooting an original Winchester M1 carbine but after 7 rounds, it ceased to fire. Examined the primers of the rounds that did not go off, and they had only a very light--just a touch--of mark where the firing pin hit. The firing pin "seems" to be okay (but I have not taken the bolt apart). Have ordered another pin but could there be another problem that I'm missing?

    "'To initiate a war of aggression...is the supreme international crime.'
    Nuremburg Tribunal, 1946"
    It's not what you know that gets you in trouble, it's what you know that just ain't so!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • nmyersnmyers Member Posts: 16,887 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Universal's are not known for high quality, so you may have to pay a professional to fix it. It's tough to trouble-shoot malfunctions on a forum.

    If you want to try yourself....

    First, let's eliminate user error. When you chamber the first round, do you pull the op rod back and let it fly forward? If you ease it forward, the extractor may not slip over the case rim and the ejector will not be fully compressed.

    If that's not it, field strip the carbine and function test with dummy rounds. Remove the op rod spring and cycle the action in slow motion. Pay special attention to the extractor and ejector. Remove the bolt and make sure that the ejector can be pushed in against strong spring pressure with a punch, and that the extractor can be pushed outward against strong spring pressure. If either sticks, try penetrating oil. If either is a problem, see a gunsmith because you need a special tool to reassemble the bolt; at this point, it might be worthwhile replacing the bolt with USGI.

    Neal
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • MIKE WISKEYMIKE WISKEY Member Posts: 10,036 ✭✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    ALSO CHECK THE GAS PISTON, COMMON FOR THESE TO GET CARBONED UP AND CAUSE SHORT CYCLING. YOU'LL NEED A GAS PISTON WRENCH TO REMOVE THE GAS PISTON NUT.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • v35v35 Member Posts: 12,710 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Get the wrench, take out the piston and run a small number drill in the port being careful not to scrape the barrel. If you find the piston free and the port clean, then you have to open the port a few thousandths at a time with the next size number drill until cases reliably eject. I am assuming the ejector spring has enough tension
    to vigorously kick out the brass.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • azgunnut2@yahoo.comazgunnut2@yahoo.com Member Posts: 305 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    Hello ,
    We do a "fix" on these , and its reasonable ...contact us if interested.....
    azgunnut2@yahoo.com
    d.a. stearns
    gunsmith gallery sales sweetwater , tn
    ph. 423-351-7571 (9am-1pm 7 days aweek , 9am-6pm weds.).............

    Join / Support the NRA
    Guns are my friends !!!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • binderbinder Member Posts: 242 ✭✭✭
    edited November -1
    I had one that did the same thing, about two years ago.
    One thing I noticed was that not all mags feed the same. 15 round mags vs 30 worked better and didn't stove pipe at all. the 30 round banana clip did. then check the ramp
    The extractor was also a little too long, a millimter or less off and it works great, but my main problem was the mag.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
Sign In or Register to comment.